Setright
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Posts posted by Setright
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It's due to the branch. The driver side is almost straight, the curbside branches off above the rear axle.
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Yeah, and even if the supplier uses the same molds/parts and so on when producing for the Genuine and aftermarket....do they run the same quality tests?
Do they test every part, or just every tenth/hundredth ?
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Only useful for track work - or very heavy cars.
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forester2002...
..I understand the logic, but copper grease/paste has a high viscosity and I wouldn't bank on it reducing friction in the bolt threads.
The anti-seize aspect is the greases ability to keep water/dirt out of the threads, and stop nut/bolt rusting together, as opposed to lubricating.
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It's normal for gunk to build up here.
Running good full-synth oil in my engine seems to have kept the build up to a minimum.
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It's a very special place.
Coming down for the Scuderia course at the end of April - as co-driver.
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2.0 liter Impreza "Sport", which means a factory fit Turbo body-kit. My mods inlcude Turbo rims, springs, brakes and a Subaru Sports Muffler:
A couple from tracks in Denmark:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Padborg.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/rd1.jpg
Yep, been there, done that, doing it again soon:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/nurburgstick.jpg
In "her" natural habitat:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/PC290013.jpg
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You can get buy with a "seak kit". That has new piston seals and boots for the caliper sliders. Use a lithium or silicone based grease.
I have learned the hard way that copper grease swells the rubber boots and causes caliper seizing!
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YEah, the Legacy and OBK filters are just some kind of fabric gauze now
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Reduce torque?
Okay, maybe a thick copper paste will add friction in the threads, but oil?
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Replace the tensioner, the water pump and the toothed follower. The money you spend on these parts now, could save you a big bill later.
The smooth followers are "optional", as you can hear which ones are getting tired. If they begin to fail halfway to the next cambelt swap, they will start to whine and screech - giving you advance notice to replace them pronto.
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I would say you've got a 70% chance of internal breakages in the plug wires - especially if they are the original wires.
It's a good place to start. You could try just purchasing the wire for #2 - to avoid spending too much money.
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Subaru genuine filters are oiled paper.
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Start with a genuine Sube thermostat and new rad cap.
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Redline couldn't do it for my old Legacy.
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Keith, my 1992 Legacy was capable of this "feat"
Any car is, really, provided you do the right dance on the pedals
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Is it possible that the 'box was underfilled at the change 2 years ago?
If your car still performs well, now with the correct the amount of oil, you've probably not damaged it very much.
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Erm....I think you'll find that the largest portion of cracked Borla's are replicas.
Look to cobbtuning.com maybe ?
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You cannot switch to RWD without a serious bit of fettling on the driveline.
FWD or AWD.
Your car divides torque 90/10 favouring the front wheels in full traction driving conditions. The transmission will automatically send more torque rearwards when it detects oncoming slip/spin at the front.
The fuse causes a permanent 100/0 split, by activating a solenoid to disengage the rear wheels.
The long term "fear" is burning out that solenoid.
Hope that helps
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Full heat is kinda useless unless you run the recirculation on the ventilation.
The air-con evaporator is upstream of the heater core.
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Shifting on the move:
YOu could try to teach yourself about "rev-matching" and "double de-clutching".
Basically, car still rolling, gear stick in neutral, clutch pedal up, tap the throttle to rev the engine to maybe 2000rpm, clutch pedal down, shift into first (double-de-clutch) then, before releasing the clutch pedal, tap the throttle again (rev matching) to avoid excessive engine braking.
With practice, you will become super smooth and able to select a lower gear smoothly.
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Well, finding (and paying for!) genuine Subaru coolant could be a problem.
To flush:
I would recommend a full drain, fill up with pure water (destilled, milli-Q, whatever, just not tap water), leave engine on with rad cap off to expell air, when the rad fan comes on, install the rad cap. Drive...enjoy life behind the wheel of a Subaru.
Come home, drain again and fill with any good "regular" coolant. Most of these are green or blue. Avoid red or orange.
Having said that, the Motul "Expert" coolant I am running is yellow, but it's the same ingredients as the blue stuff - only a lower concentration. And it's meant for bikes. The only real difference is a higher freezing point. This coolant is very good though, excellent heat transfer.
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Sure, but even Mobil's own 5W-40 is better suited for freezing weather. It's thinner in the cold than 5W-50.
I always like to remind that the xW-xx is just a consumer label that covers a range of viscosity. To be serious about oil choices, you must look at the tech. data sheets.
European Shell Ultra 5W-40, for example is so thin that it is almost a 5W-30 oil. Mobil Delvac 1 5W-40 is close to being a 5W-50 ...
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I understand.
You could try Motul "Motylgear" - they even make a 75W-80 to ease shifting, but the 75W-90 stuff isn't too bad either.
First Imp on 08 Imp in real snow
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Fit some snow tyres. Right now, I'm finding Continental TS810 to be the very best - also for wet conditions.
Of course, you'll lose out on some of the tail-sliding fun. My Forester Turbo wouldn't kick the tail out on compacted snow after I fit these last year.
My Impreza (my 2000) is now wearing these tyres too.