Setright
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Posts posted by Setright
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Actually, I have just replaced my entire rack.
It seemed like it was on the left tie-rod. Just like the symptoms above. And usually, a new tie-rod is the solution.
However, closer inspection revealed that the bearing inside the rack housing was allowing movement at the tire rod. No play on the other side.
OUCH! A new rack is an expensive item
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I fitted the Electrosports...what are they...7mm? Simply because they are blue and match my 555 Blue Impreza
I reckon the extra money for the 8.5 is wasted on a stock ignition system. Still,, not a huge price difference..so go for the best colour
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Yep, built in October 1999....sold first time February 2000....mine since February 2004
XT...yessir...owned one for a about a year
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Struct, we are not making excuses, but trying to give good advice suggestions
Hard to tell if we agree on what a "good" tyre is. Continental TS 810 or 830 are amazingly capable on compacted snow, and not to shabby on ice.
If you don't want the ABS to come on, brake progessively. Squeeze the pedal slowly as you would/should a non-ABS system. Let the front tyres dig in as the weight transfers and press ever harder up to the point of locking.
Don't pull the fuse
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Struct...the extra distance is dependent on the conditions, of both the road and the car.
Under normal braking, there is ZERO difference, since I assume you are not make emergency stops all the time.
So there is NO COMPROMISE in daily braking. But a major advantage in panic braking.
I will concur that studded winter tyres will stop more quickly on ice, when locked up so the studs drag in the ice. Here, the ABS would be good to shut off.
However, the example cited further above in this post discusses slush/snow, where a good winter tyre will not make dramatic increases in stopping distance with or without ABS.
Funny Story
The late and much-missed Leonard Setright attended the launch of the Ford Scorpio/Granada/Falcon. Said car was to be the first with ABS fitted as standard. Fancy stuff in 1984
Anyhoo, Leonard knew that Ford'e engineers had decided their system was "infallible" and would not let all the wheels lock up at once, so there was no need for an expensive g-sensor. The incoming wheel speeds would be enough.
Tearing around the test track, Mr. Setright then exploited this omission and stomped so suddenly and so hard on the brake pedal that all four wheels locked up.....squealing and sliding as the other journalists and Ford representatives looked on in surprise
He had the car on the limit of grip coming out of the final corner, just to be sure the tyres wouldn't have the added grip to provide braking power. The poor car thought it was standing still...and didn't cycle the brake line pressure.
Is it any wonder that I choose to keep his memory alive by "stealing" his name ??
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aye...but consider that you can take the seats with you
Durania...be my guest:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/Rear_ring-sticker.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/front34.jpg
WARNING! : Hidden commercial
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v684/Setright/BossGloss.jpg
And here, tearing around a race track
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By the way, the ABS...even in a 1990 Legacy works on a simple enough principle. 4 wheel speed sensors and an accelerometer (a.k.a. g-sensor).
The ABS brain monitors the wheel speeds, AND how they change. A simple mathematical formula allows it work out how many "g" the car should be pulling for the wheel speed to drop at whatever rate. By comparing this figure to the real value from the g-sensor, it can decide if a wheel is locking up.
Dry roads, good tyres, let's say the calculation produces a theoretical 1.1g. The g-sensor says 1.0g...so the ABS will take some of the brake line pressure off the wheel that says it slowing "too fast". The pressure...as you have noticed is bounced back into the brake pedal!
SOOOO.....the amount of grip available is vital for a good stop. With or without ABS.
It is also important to remember not to loosen the pressure when the ABS starts pulsing the pedal...keep pressing!
Most Hitachi ABS equipped Subaru's have the g-sensor nestling behind the gear selector, under the center console. Go on...take a peak ;-)
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Erm...I had this on my drivers door only.
I bought a new innner handle mechanism...and discovered the problem: A little stub had broken off the original.
No amount of oil will glue that back on. You need to replace the handles.
It might be possible to fabricate something that will allow your old handles to work again, but you'll need to be creative since there isn't much room
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I just love Subaru owners and drivers.
We really are quite a special people
Welcome aboard!!
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Radiator...mine told it was bad by tipping the gauge needle a fraction higher when I ran over 80mph with the air-con on in summer.
Your problem sounds like either a busted fan, or a wonky thermostat.
Fan is pretty easy to see....it should start up when the needle shows warmer than normal.
Thermostat might be almost stuck shut. At ilde, the water flow is stemmed. Cruising, when the revs are higher will increase flow and can just squeeze open the thermostat.
I am NOT ruling out a bad radiator. If it's more than 8-10 years old...it will not be working well anyway.
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Ah..Stealth just answered my question...is that North or South Island....Dunedin nearby? Must be South Island
I had a girlfriend who was from Dunedin while I was growing up in Singapore.
Oh...on that picture of Lake Wanaka....right click...set as background...
It is now gracing my computer screen
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Your problems stem from a combination of bad tyres and worn dampers/shock absorbers.
YES, in an ideal stop, the ABS will lengthen the braking distance moderately. City speeds, the difference might be 2-3 feet.
HOWEVER, in a panic stop, when a child runs in front of you, and you mash the brake into the carpet, the ABS will stop you, the NON-ABS will see you lock all four and slide onward.
It is a reality, in a panic, most of us just stand on the brake. I have participated in many advanced driving courses, and I am very confident in most situations, even some suprises, BUT a pedestrian that appears from nowhere still means standing on it. Sure, in some cases there may be space/time to release the brake and steer around, but again...panic does mean panic.
PLEASE CONSIDER THE AGE of your tyres also. 4 years and the wet/cold weather performance drops off. 5 years, and they are useless.
Look for 4 digits stamped in an oval. First two are week number, second two the production year.
0105 means first week of 2005....and those tyres are only suitable for the dump. Nevermind the tread depth.
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Thanks for the comments and the sympathies
Rverdoold! They cost 1000 Euro per seat
Plus the 300 Euro for the adapter. Per side.I will say this, my hat is off to Recaro. They delivered in the time they promised. Everything just bolted in, no need to make last minute mods.
Sure at the price, it ought to be like that, but my previous experience with a maker like Sparco is somewhat different. 3 month delays, adapters that don't fit....
The accident was comparatively low speed, but I had no idead I was about to be hit, and my brakes were off, so the full acceleration of the impact went into my body. The bumper was crumpled and the boot/trunk plating at the spare wheel was deformed. I am sure that if I had had my foot on the brake, the C-pillars would have been buckled....but I would have been better off.
It makes you paranoid....can't stop the car without looking the mirror. And tailgaters make me really nervous.
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Nice work!
Good idea...I intend to copy it
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Please note...the black bushing you have posted a picture of is the "fulcrum" bush, not the one for the end-link!
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Oh, I guess I should post this picture too....insert the MST3K style voice over:
"Let's see...the thingy-me-bob goes into the whats-it"
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Well, many don't know that I was hit from behind in January of 2009. After a nine-month "battle" I was deemed to have suffered 8% permanent invalidity from the whiplash. A year on, and many bills from physio/chiropraktor/massage...plus re-habilitating training in the gym 2-3 times every week, I am feeling better, but I still have bad days when my neck/shoulder hurts. Affecting my concentration. My neck also makes a host of squeaking/creaking noises it never made before. I am in my thirties by the way.
Most of my monetary compensation has been given it's own bank account to ensure that I can afford medical bills in the future. However, some of it had to be spent wisely, right now. On new, better shaped seats, that fit and support my 6"5/185lbs frame.
They also happen to look cool:
Shame I had to suffer bodily harm to afford them.
They were not cheap, but they really are comfortable and I intend to keep them and use in my next Subaru...if I ever buy a new one
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Welcome aboard Sturgn. Your best friend here on USMB is the search function up top. Tons of Subaru information.
Choose "advanced search," type in "burp" or "burp coolant," select "New Gen Forum" and hit "search."
Good luck.
Search for "Coolant replacement"...by me
Post nr. 26...surefire
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=21681&highlight=coolant&page=3
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"If you drill extra holes in your rims....you might be a redneck.."
No, but seriously, I agree that sometimes it can just get so annoying to have to listen to "professionals" tell you that what you have been doing for the last 10 years is not possible.
Even some wheel alignment shops cannot understand that I know how I want my wheels pointing, and nevermind their computer's standard setup for my Impreza.
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Agreed. The Stoptech articles really set things straight.
Good reading. I still refer people to their pages...
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Cabin heat goes. Engine overheats. High rise in the expansion tank.
Headgasket.
Quite conclusive evidence.
Been there, paid the money, happy motoring from then on.
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OR, unplug the crankshaft sensor.....turn ignition key for 20 seconds...wait half a minute....20 seconds....
Or whatever rythym suits you, just don't stress your starter motor too much
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I like the idea of the speed bleeder, but as above it's just as easy (and fun) to have a friend help you out. I get them to press the pedal, I open the bleeder, and ask friend to pump slowly ten times, on the tenth press I close the bleeder. Air entering backwards isn't really a problem. I run a foot or two of clear hose from the nipple into a bottle of fluid.
And yet...part of me still thinks the Speed Bleeder is cool....
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M12x1.25 with a 60 degree seat.
Which gear oil for 5 speed manual?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Valvoline Synpower
This is the absolute BEST oil for our gearboxes. I have tried many others, from Redline to Castrol, through Mobil and Shell.
Synpower gives PERFECT shifts. Smooth, crunch free. A local rally driver gave the tip, and I have been spreading the word ever since. No-one has been disappointed.
It even cured the ker-UNCH in a 20 year old XT-Turbo. That was making terrible noises in 2nd and 3rd. Drained the old stuff out....poured in the Synpower...drove about 60 miles and the noises died down and never came back.
Okay, the third gear synchro must have been really worn, since a small klonk could still be felt on quick shifts up from 2nd, but I can vouch 100% for the fact this synthetic oil is compatible with a Subaru gearbox.
Please!! Do youself the honour/favour of spending the extra money on Synpower. You will be back here to thank me