Setright
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Posts posted by Setright
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Impreza and Legacy use the same parts. Just order them for the earliest Impreza you can get...which was 1993.
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I am voting with the "Better pads" crowd
No doubt, mildy overheated pads are the source of this problem. Sure, it may be due to the discs being under-dimensioned, but you can alleviate the problem with good pads.
What's a "good pad"...topic for a whole new discussion
I would suggest looking in the ceramic materials mentioned above.....part number/ brand names anyone?
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I have mentioned it other threads on this topic and I am not shy:
Press HARD on the brake pedal!
Fit snow tyres.
The brake pedal vibration is there to be squeezed into submission. Just stomp on the pedal and don't let off just because the pump starts. The ABS needs all the line-pressure it can get to stop the car quickly.
Don't fall into the easy assumption that the pump-cycling means the system is braking as hard as it can. The pulses are timed. The intervals where full pressure is sent to the brake calipers, that's where the system needs YOU to be mashing the brake pedal.
My Impreza is from 1999, but I used to own a 1990 Legacy. Winter tyres and lots pedal pressure = short stopping distance.
Presently, I am a big fan of Continental winter tyres, TS810 / TS 830. But there are pleny of other good winter tyres out there. Nokian, Michelin, Bridgestone.
Tyres are the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT component on the car.
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Well, at full-throttle, a few things are ignored by the ECU. Like the O2 sensor signal.
Part throttle has all the emissions control systems active. Except during warm up. So part throttle on a cold engine should resemble full throttle on a warm engine in terms of ECU monitoring.
Pardon...just thinking "aloud"...
How does it behave cold?
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You don't have the green, single wire connectors under the dash connected do you? Normal "position" is disconnected.
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Stick to something alkaline, and you'll be okay.
Be aware that most long-life stuff is acidic, and will not mix with the old coolant that is left in your engine.
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The po420 code is probably a result of the problem, and not the cause. Raw fuel or too much air is making the 02 sensors go bannas.
But why?
It's hard to find a theory consistent with lousy low-rev running, but smooth high rev performance.
Fuel pressure regulator? Usually would give the opposite symptoms, but let's say the pressure is TOO HIGH....so the engine runs rich at low revs.
Any chance you can swap the FPR?
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Alt rectifier...as above....just chiming in to offer my vote
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Yes, in hindsight the need for added insurance is obvious. Please consider that I am a layman in terms of freight, so I had no idea that the standard insurance cover was so small - based on weight. And it was on a track-and-trace label, which to me means it cannot get lost without someone being held responsible.
Also, Wayward & Scott, by law, should have arranged for the manifold to be picked up, but they pressured me into sending it back myself, claiming that it would be faster.
The conspiracy theorist within me believes they did that on purpose. It's almost too convenient that it got lost.
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So, I decided to dig deep into my pockets and fork out for a Hayward&Scott manifold. For my turbo-less Imp. The really tidy looking one, with a race-cat in - keeping it legal.
This one here...which you will notice is NOT CHEAP!!
http://www.haywardan...h-flow-cat.html
The darn thing arrived a month later and DID NOT FIT!! It was 20mm too narrow compared to the exhaust ports on the engine, and a COLLOSAL 40mm too short. The collection of 2-1 at the cat is too far forward and it ends up fouling the engine subframe, the gearbox subframe, the hanger it was meant to bolt onto, and the rear flange won't reach to the midpipe.
I took a string of pictures and sent off to H&S - I live on mainland Europe, remember. They told me this couldn't be, it was impossible for it to be too short. WELL HELLO??? If the stupid thing would fit, I would just bolt it on, wouldn't I?? I don't spend that kind of money, just to mess about.
This story turns really nasty, since I sent the manifold back, and it got "lost" in the post. The tracking details follow it to arrival at Heathrow airport, where it dissappeared. Got stolen most likely.
I sent it with the state carrier, with track&trace, which means it's got a standard insurance on it...which works by calculating a maximum compensation by the weight of the parcel. That means I will receive only £90 !
Granted, Hayward & Scott are not to blame for the mysterious disappearance, but if they made a real QUALITY product, that FIT FIRST TIME, I wouldn't have needed to send it back, would I?
In fact the "Distance Selling" regulations of The Sale of Goods Act states that I am only obliged to make the defective product available for collection, but H&S abused my goodwill and pressured me into sending the manifold myself. That means it becomes my responsibilty under UK law.
YES, I am well pissed off!
H&S have given me a hard-luck story, about them not being able to afford to make another manifold....WHAT ABOUT ME? THE CUSTOMER who paid an enormous sum of money for a completely useless manifold.
They even had the cheekiness to suggest that my car was to blame, or even the authorised Subaru dealer that attempted to fit the manifold. It was suggested that we may have done "something stupid".
HOW??? It's a manifold, and the six head studs dictate the positioning.
I have avoided slandering H&S on the web, since I have been trying to get them to help me out, and honour their warranty and indeed live up to their reputation, but since this case has hit a dead end, and I bear the loss of over £1000, I thought I would share my experience here on USMB. Might save other Subaru owner's some problems in the future.
I have since purchases a Borla manifold, cat-back, and a RandomTech catalyst....all of it FIT PERFECTLY!!! If only I have decided to Buy American from the beginning, I wouldn't have lost all that money on so-called "English Craftmanship".
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Heated garages and RedBull
Nice work!
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How old is the car?
I bet it's a broken tab inside the cabin side of the door handle. Had these exact symptoms on my 1992 Legacy.
The spring that pulls the handle back to the resting position uses the tab/axle to push against. When it breaks, the spring starts pushing on the lock activator
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Clay bar. I am not kidding.
It takes some patience, but you don't need much elbow grease
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Well, I haven't so much modded the car itself these days...in the snow, and don't intend to .
HOWEVER!!!
The "angle of attack" through bends and corners has been a little...un-conventional
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Valvoline oils, for engine and transmission are really the cutting edge at the moment....especially for use in Subarus!
Maxlife is available here in Europe as semi-synth 10W-40, and a full-synth 5W-40.
Maxlife would be my clear recommendation. NO additives.
And a Purolator or Genuine filter.
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I would put money on "excessive toe-out". The inside edge is playing part of leading edge too, and gets scrubbed out.
Fits with a tie-rod swap.
With toe-out, you should find the steering quite responsive on turn-in.
Lots of negative camber can cause what you are seeing, but you need more than -1.0 degree, and lots of straights. "Spirited" cornering will even out the wear.
Usually, too LITTLE negavtive camber gives wear on the OUTSIDE shoulder.
Camber bolts for the rear are available, and very good investment. They cost pennies, and give you more influence on the car's handling.
I suggest using the front stock bolts to get as close to -1.0 as you can, and aftermarket camber bolts on the rear to match the value you can hit on the fronts.
Turn-in, and cornering grip will improve!. A lot!
What about your swaybays? If you stiffen up the rear, the turn-in will improve, but lift-off oversteer could become a "problem". Again, I like to have even thickness on the swaybars. Gives very adjustable handling, without making the car dangerous.
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Indeed! The CEL just means that the car might pollute more than it's allowed. It's not a "Your engine is gonna blow in a second" kind of lamp.
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Nipper, thanks for sharing.
I think this post may be what gets me to finally clean (or replace) my IACV. Just passed 200.000 miles, and the idle is slow to come down, and there is a slight surging when cruising around 2000rpm in 4th gear - manual, Euro model.
My mileage could be better too
Wonder if your success will be repeatable with a 1999, MAP based engine. The IACV is quite different.
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Burping:
Idle engine with the rad cap off. Cloth handy to collect small spillage as she burbs.
Once it's up to operating temp...the fan will switch on...top off the coolant...quickly now...and re-install the rad-cap. Drive...let cool. Don't remove the cap again, just make sure it doesn't suck the overflow dry as it cools overnight.
Morning time: Fill expansion/overflow to the max line.
Done!
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If your struts are original, it is time to change them!!
8-10 years or between 80-120K miles, depending on the kind of roads you drive on, and the struts are worn out. Fully.
Fitting a better sway bar, on old struts, might "improve" things a little, but I expect you will get some akward handling...I mean unpredictable.
Fit four new struts/dampers. Springs will still be fine. And yes, you MUST get an alignment afterwards. Toe-angle, should be 0.0, or if you want a direction stable car, a teeny weeeny but inward on both ends. 0.0 gives reasonable stability, but more willingness to change direction, like for cornering.
The front camber is adjustable. The alignment computers have the factory settings for almost zero on the front, but I would STRONGLY recommend dialling in negative camber, that matches the fixed value on the rear axle. Should be around -1.0 degree on the rear. Front struts are moody, and you might have to make do with -0.5 degrees.
Negative camber means that the wheels lean inward at the top, and this improves grip.
With these mods in place, and your bank account feeling a little drained, I bet you will LOVE the handling, and you can put off the swaybar until after winter.
When you do get a new bar for the rear, don't go overboard. Find something in fixed 20mm, or and adjustable 22mm that you should fix in the softest setting. Cornering will become more "flat" and the back becoming willing to play around a little, but not slip out every time you let off the gas.
The really noticeable improvement will be in the steering wheel, the car will "turn-in" eagerly, and your confidence will be boosted.
New struts...alignement...then the bar
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Only just saw this post. VERY GLAD to hear that you both escaped more serious injuries. Still, being thrown about in a car can leave some permanent damage, so be wary of headaches, dizziness, and problems concentrating. Sure signs of "whiplash". A good chiropraktor, oestopath, and cranio-sakral therapist are essential for lessening the effects.
It is, of course, too late for "good advice", but along with the suggestion futher up the thread, to stay on the throttle, there is another trick to rescuing a tank-slapper like that. Once you have swung form side to side and the car is starting it's own pendulum thing, pull the steering wheel straight, and stop correcting. Try to point it along the road...duh!...., but keeping the steering wheel still is the only way to stop the swinging.
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1995 Impreza parts will fit.
The production years to search for are 1993-1997. Even past that, up til 2000, most parts will fit easily.
The ONLY catch is that some model Legacies have conical springs, and that means you need to replace the entire strut assembly. The strut mount, spring mount, bump stop and so on.
The chassis hard points are identical.
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I fit these to my car, GC8 Impreza along with Whiteline swaybars. Front and rear, no problems. Love the setup:)
I have noticed that KartBoy / Perrin list a washer kit for using with Whiteline swaybars, so it might seem that Whiteline bars are a smidgen shorter than Perrin...and apparently Rallitek.
http://www2.kartboy.com/x4/product.php?productid=16185&cat=0&bestseller=Y
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Nipper, I don't disagree with the link, but the Service manual stipulates a lubricated bolt.
So many crankbolts have worked lose because they have been torqued too low.
Documented: The 1970 FF-1 Project car...
in Historic Subaru Forum: 50's thru 70's
Posted
I love this project!
You have my admiration for your valiant efforts