Setright
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Posts posted by Setright
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Remove the bulb housing (get in from below) and then accelerate like the Devil is on your tail.....might just empty the light
Otherwise, you'll have to remove the lamp and drain it properly.
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Indeed!
I find that filling the system with this, and then going for a drive, does a good job of flushing. I then drain and refill with pre-mix coolant.
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COuld be internal clogging of the radiator.
The cool air intake forces the top hose to connect to the middle of the radiator, and that gives less than optimal flow in the ends of the radiator and they tend to clog.
Rinsing with demin water at every coolant change will keep the rad clean .
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The bolt should be tightened all the way down so that the collar on it stops at the flange. This means the springs are providing the holding pressure - and allow some flexing.
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Erm....lots of interesting comments and views here.
I have one too
Discs should be made of steel!!! Iron with carbon makes steel. Plain iron, cast and machined would wear out very fast indeed. Carbon not only gives surface hardness, but also a more uniform matrix.
Personally, I do think there is a difference in quality of discs. I do agree with AircraftEngineer that casting is casting, and then maybe I don't. The temperature of the molten steel, the temperature of the cast, the speed of cooling, and so on will affect the uniformity of the finished product. Not all foundries will cast with the same care.
They won't use the same percentage of carbon either, and 0.5 and 1.0 percent make for very different qualities of steel....
Having said that, the PRICE is only a guide to finding the best quality for your personal application.
"It is not always true that you get what you pay for, but unless you pay for it, you certainly will not get it."
Leonard Jerome Setright
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Hmmm....a worn damper(shock) would cause cupping of the tyre surface, but I wouldn't put my money on it causing carcass separation.
Maybe the tyres are really lousy. Or they are being massively over-inflated causing undo stress on the carcass.
Or they could be under-inflated, and driven fast enough to overheat and cause the separation.
Have Walmart replace the tyre again, then take the wheel to another shop and have them balance it. Make sure you run the correct tyre pressure (28-30psi?) and see how you get on.
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Really???
Explain more.
I have found that the 1.1bar caps have "bad" internal seals and begin to lose the ability to hold back coolant and keep the pressure up. New caps read 108Kpa - same pressure, but new text to indicate new cap.
I would suspect that a cap with 89Kpa written on it would solve your problem Paul.
And: The correct burp is to run without the cap on, until the radiator fan starts running. That means the thermostat is open and all the air can be circulated out.
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Check all the hose connections, to and from PCV, IACV, and so on...
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Drive, let it cool overnight on a level surface. If the level isn't more above Full than you describe, don't worry about it.
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I had the same light show (but no starting problem) happen to my 2006 Forester XT after a trip to the car wash. The code for TPS came up, we unplugged it, blew dry air in, reconnected, never saw it again.
Maybe they're getting to busy at the factory? We've had a local Legacy H6 with some odd perfomance problems, and it turned out to be an ill-fitted intake hose connection. Air was entering the system aft the MAF.
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Eh?
Did I miss the first part of this story?
Do you have a trail hitch mounted on the car? The clearance between the frame for that and the exhaust hangers is pretty tight. Mounting the hitch you need to press the frame as far left as it possible, to avoid contact when the car is in motion.
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Could be the rear fog light switch???? My car has front and back and two switches in that location.
Front is an option, right? Are rear fogs mandatory where you live?
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But... but...it has the big fog lights, the skirts, the STi V1 spoiler, even air-con.
Bah :-) I've just bought new shoes for them, at 125K miles. I like the low maintenance of drums
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Thanks Disorder.....just write my Impreza off as an "ultra low end" model
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COuld be.
Of course, when it comes to tyres I don't like to pinch the pennies. Tyres are the most important component on the car.
Yes, yes, I know lot's of people are more interested in getting 50K miles out of a set of tyres.....but I care about grip.
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YEah, bearings make some weird noises and I have found them to come and go....until they are really busted!
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For a few years I have sworn to using Bridgestone winter tyres, but Continental TS810 has surpassed them.
Had these on a Forester 2.5XT last year...so much grip it was hard to get it to slide...on packed snow.
I've got a set on my Impreza 2.0 now and they still impress me. If you look closely at the tests you'll notice TS810 is the best for stopping hard in wet conditions -but they move them to 2nd and 3rd place because of wear and fuel consumption.
To me, that's daft. Over here the big discussion every winter is the longer braking distance of winter tyres in rain....then someone addresse the problem and makes a tyre that grips in wet and snow. And the testers almost ignore it.
Conti's for me
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Erm....the 1.5 has a very disappointing 124Nm to go with it's 104bhp. Even though it has variable DOHC. It feels a bit slow, but it's willing to run to 7000rpm again and again.
Next step up is the 2.0 with ~190Nm and 150bhp, doesn't feel slow.
From there we lose the 2.5 N/A option. There's a huge jump from 2.0 to the WRX and STi.
Oh...did I forget to mention that ALL 2008's have Dual-Range over here in Denmark??
Getting jealous?
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Check out subaruhighmileageclub.com
There's a link to a fully documented high mileage Outback in my neighboring country Sweden. Guy delivers camping wagons, so it's been working hard.
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Base model????
A 2.5 liter? Over here, we can have a 1.5 liter! :-\
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Looking at those last photos, the "jiggle pin" is also mounted incorrectly by the thermostat manufacturer.
(Even though that way round seems right to me, can't understand why Subaru put the pin the other way round. Still, Subaru engineers most often seem to know what they're doing, so there must be a good reason!)
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Hmmm, maybe I've gotten used to the new-age Imprezas having five nuts. The fifth one being all the way out toward the side of the car.
My Impreza (MY2000, but same floorplan) has a rubber bung under the spare wheel, that'll drain the water.
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The guide pin is screwed in, isn't it?
Still, you don't need to get it off/out to change the boots.
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Yep, DBA make some very nice discs!
Better gas mileage with 15" or 16" wheels
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I'm running 205/55R16 on my MY2000 Impreza. No clearance problems.
I don't think you should bank on getting any serious mpg improvement. I certainly haven't....but of course I'm running either winter tyres or R050A's which get bad ratings in the tests regarding rolling resistance.
Bear in mind that your odometer will show ever so slighty fewer miles, and that will make your mileage look worse