JaapH

I used a thin brush and white spirit (others use brake disk cleaner). I gently cleaned the wire on the inside. Didn't see any dirt but it seemed to solve the problem. I know the MAF is very delicate, so be carefull with this procedure. Prob. the problem will return, but up to now it helped me. Jaap 96 OBK (The Netherlands)

Had something like you have. Stalling without a 'check engine' warning. Cleaned the MAF sensor (very carefully). Symptoms gone now for 6 months.

No coolend will come out. Make sure the new sensor is positioned correct (watch where the wire comes out from the sensor, that spot should not touch the engine) otherwise you crack it when you tighten the bolt.

All cars in Europe from a certain date onward, have to have rearfoglights. You can have one (left side) or on both sides. Here in the Netherlands you are only allowed to use them in thick fog because they do (when using 2) suggest you are hitting the brakes or you can even blind the drives behind the car ( in rain conditions very bad). Al Subaru models ( I know from 1997 onwards) have rearfoglights. The older foresters have sepparate lights in the rear bumper.

I would advice you to purchase the struts in the US. Prices of OEM struts are 3 to 4 times higher in the Netherlands than in the US. Hal's parts (halcoots@skybest.com) sends them to Europe and gives good deals. Make sure they use surface mail and you will have to pay 20-24% import tax for bringing it in. I have a lot of experience with them. Nice people. But in your case you have to know which part you want (numbers!) for they only have info on US cars and there are a lot of differences between European (made in Japan)and US cars (made in the US) or modelyears. Tru the dutch Subaru board (subaruclu.nl) They are 99% impreza. They can help you with numbers/manuals. Goodluck Jaap The Netherlands

about 4 times a month in winter

Legacy777 I tried the spraying with water. No indication. However I skipped your remark on the MAF. Its the vortex type airflow with a hot wire. Could that cause an instant engine cut out? Is cleaning an option? They are rather expensive. Also was thinking of the engine temp sensor, although doesn't realy make sence as the car is at working temp. The vapour lock mentioned earlier I would expect at high outside temp. Any advice on the MAF-sensor? Thanks jaaph The Netherlands

can be as simple as tirepressure. do a search on the binding problem

Lothar34: the fuel filter is 500 miles old. But I don't see how this would influence the engine under the conditions I mentioned. Legacy777: I like your idea. Will try that soon. Thanks Jaap

My wife drives a 96 2,5 Outback (automatic) phase one 1st HG. She has encountered a problem with the engine suddenly cutting out while driving. This is the scene: It happens only on cold (no ice) foggy mornings with a lot of damp (typical Dutch winter). She drives about 2 miles to bring the kids to school (no problems with starting or diriving) Its just enough to bring the car to its working temp. Then she stops for approx 10 minutes to let the kids out. She starts again. All ok. Then when driving about 100 yards, the engine cuts out completely and also quite sudden. When she starts it will start up but a bit hessitating. Then she parks the car (with engine running) waits till the engine is smooth and drives off. No problems after that. I pulled all the codes (nothing, not even pending) changed plugs and wires (OEM). Sprayed the wires. Still happens. 109k miles has new O2 sensors, new cranck-, cam sensors, PVC is new... I have the feeling it must be in the ignition somewhere. But there are no codes... Does this sound familiar to you? Any ideas? Jaap

Then that must be like the same type of car I saw at my dealer 3 years ago (in The Netherlands). They were changing it from RHD to LHD and told me the whole job (including the purchase of the car) was more then $ 120k..... Now I know why.

Thanks. Will try the bleeding. However the sound is very 'mechanical' like metal on metal. The u-joint story sounds ok. I don't mind the sound but just wanted to konw the cause. Thanks any way. JaapH

http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/index.jsp This is the link you might find some info. I was just wondering if any of you downlowded the file with the title: steering knocking/rattle noise when turning.

Thnaks for all the replies. No its not cold overhere (Seattle type of weather). Rattle comes from the inside of the car, and sounds like a loose bolt, but is not. Checked all. It only sounds when turning right on aa bumpy road. I had the suspension sound. Was more like a clunck (is that the way you spell it?). Took care off that. I am interested in the TSB they mention on endwrench(had the title of this post. If nobody has it I will download it. Thanks, Jaap

Hi, Did any of you download this Subaru bulletin from the Subaru tech site (Endwrench)? I have had the rattle for some time on my 96 OBK. Any ideas? Jaap

I have a 96 outback. The 'outback' and 'awd' badge are only fitted with the sticky foam stuff and have a flat backside. The 'Legacy' badge has in adition to the foam, 2 plastic pins on the back to align it correctly. All are made off plastic so be carefull when you remove them.

Just replaced the muffler on my 96 Outback (2,5). Allthough I have the correct partnumber, the new OEM muffler is about 25% smaller than the orginal one. And it sound louder inside the car too (hate that). The new muffler is made by Bosal in Canada for Subaru. Is this normal?

timing belt cover gaskets cam/crank seals cam cover vent seals cam cover bolt seals new sparkplugs cam cover seals that go around the sparkplugs O-ring for the oilpump might aswell change some cooling hoses rear crank oil seal timing belt pulleys? .....

Try Hal's parts and services. They have Subaru parts new and used. Reasonable prices and will often match other (lower) offers. For me it was important that they ship to Europe. Been with them for years. Contact them at: halcoots@skybest.com

You don't need any seal installer tools. Just a small drop of engine oil on the seal and tap it in with a plastic hammer. Make sure you drive it in slowly and even around the edge of the seal so it doesn't twist. Also be carefull when you put the seal over the cranck. If you drop the oil pump any way, do it when its out. Why change the oil pump? Most of the time its just the seals (cranck & O-ring) that need replacement.

In the UK the Subaru brand has won a prize for best service (if I do remember correct).

I have the same on my one of the rear wheels. Adjusted the pads so they would move easely. Will change the pads soon however.

Here in Europe the AWD Passat (called 4 motion) has an option for an extra lift kit, underside protection and sturdier suspension. Just like the Outback. However a Passat here is cheaper than the Forrester and much cheaper than the Outback. But be sure to get an European one

I don't see the need to change the cam indicator. They are not linked. However on my car (96 Outback) they both died within 2 months of each other at 88k. The crack indicator is simple to change. You might need to remove the altenator drivebelt tensioner (or AC-belt?) to get to it. Its on the front side, in the middle, on top of the engine block. Just behind the crankshaft pulley. Fixed with one bolt and has a brown colour. good luck

Its a station (don't think they had Outback sedans at the time).