JaapH

I am thinking of putting in some better seats in my 96 Outback. Current ones are worn a bit. Just wondering if I can use seats from a newer model legacy? Any experience?

That thing with the Toyota pick up is nothing compaired what the UK TV program: TOP GEAR did with a Toyota pick-up. They wondered why its always a Toyota that is used by soldiers in countries like Africa? So they 'tested' one. They took an old Toyota pick-up (diesel). Ran it into trees, had it submerged completely on a beach (sea water) for 8 hours, set the cabin on fire for 20 minutes, hung it from a crane and let it fall 50ft on a caravan, put it on a roof of 6 story buildng and then blew up the building to demolish it. They got the car out of the rubble. Put in some gas and added a new battery (was removed) and started the engine and 'drove' it away (two flats and a broken chasis)........ No tricks involved.

remember it needs premimium and not regular fuel and has less power than the 97 model onwards (155 in stead of 165hp)

96 Outback 2,5 dohc 110k miles. No problems yet other then cranck/cam seals once. No rust. Perfect car for me. However: I have the gaskets in stock (just in case). JaapH

I once had a battery that developed an internal short in one of the cells and then only had 10 volts,. One of the plates was bad and bend when warmed due to charging and touched the other plates. This might help you. Jaap

I have a 96 Outback with auto. I tow a 2000lbs caravan with no problem. Because the auto I installed a small trans fluid cooler. That all. No headgaskets yet (110k). knock on wood.

What is the content of such a kit? Just the 2 gaskets or also all of the camcover/plug stuff. JaapH

Thats exactly the way I have been doing the bleeding. Because of a severe lack of hills in this country, I use a jack under the (optional) engine guard and jack it up way high. Never had to add much later on.

Well all your 2 cent advices add up to a dollar. Just to give some answers to your questions above. My car is US built (private import when Outbacks were not sold here). I have used it under heavy circomstances (towing a 2200 lbs caravan up a 10-12% for 30 minutes was max. Boy, did the engine smell after that!) Yep Holland is small but I don't care were it hapens, but when it hapens. A short drive is a '3 minute to bring the kids to school drive'. I agree that most of the time I have 'that last bolt' that gives a problem, so I better don't touch. It will not improve for the new gasket is not proven to be better. I like the idea of a temp alarm but the info from HB Kim is the best and I believe that (is your real name Dr Phil?). Its a real eye opener and explains a lot. This is that vital piece of information: ."....So trapped air causes head warp, which causes air to enter the cooling system. It was pretty amusing that at the same time I discovered this entrained air sensitivity in the 2.5 engine, so too did the auto dealers. Head warp caused by customers changing their coolant is now the number one warranty item with this engine. All caused by an engine block that was not plumbed to dynamically remove air from the high point. Subaru has since changed their cooling system design. It's essential that the 2.5 liter coolant crossover tube atop the engine be drilled and tapped. This allows user to add a small tube from there to the coolant reservoir. Any air inside the engine block then automatically purges. Proof of effective purging is that I can now drain all the coolant from the entire sys, then refill. Every drop can be refilled without hesitation. Before adding this air purge, I would end up with a few cups of fluid that I could not get back in to the system. Also, I now can't get the engine to gurgle after a hot shut down...." This I will do. I will drill that hole and put in a smal bolt just make sure I bleed all the air out. And if I can't reach that point a small hose with a plug and clamp should work. You won't need a big opening. Thanks for all this advice. For me the misterious headgasket problem is solved JaapH (From that small country on the otherside of that big lake)

I have a 96 2.5 Outback with 110k. No problems with overheating up till now, but I just wondered if it would make any sence to change the headgaskets now. Also because my wife will start using it just for small trips (heating up/cooling down often) As I would do the job myself, it would give me the time to shedule and prepaire at ease. But would I save machining the heads? Or do I still have to do that? I figured It will cost about $200 on gaskets and $100 on oil and coolants. So not a huge amount. And the gaskets are in the mail right now (I like to have some cheap US-spares as I live in Europe). I won't do belts, hoses, oil pump, pulleys, etc (have done all of them resently). Does it make sence or am I just looking for an excuse to get my hands greasy again? JaapH The Netherlands

If you don't pre-charge the new oil filter with oil , the engine will make sounds for a while that trigger the sensitive knocksensor.

My VIN is: S3-BG-6857-T-7380-506. And built in the US......

Watjekouw If you are talking about specs of the engine, there is no real difference between the US and EU. However when it comes to fenders, body parts, drive train, brakes, mirrors, lights, towinglimits etc., you will find a lot. I know, for I have an US built Outback and I drive were you live: in the Netherlands.

....I don't think the mirror frame is strong enough to carry a laptop. I would use bleutooth which is connected to your eye ballnerves directly.....

Yep most of them do. But I was told that Some Subaru's made for Great Britain were made in the US (around 1996). I have a US Outback (built november 1995 & model 1996) but the engine says: made in Japan. Same as most of the other parts.

That's a great site! Bought a few boxes of Subaru tools on German E-bay about a year ago. 80% of I can't identify (don't need them either). So now I know what it is. Thanks

That's a great site! Bought a few boxes of Subaru tools on German E-bay about a year ago. 80% of I can't identify (don't need them either). So now I know what it is. Thanks

Woud be nice if you could determine the frequency of the ratel. Is it the rpm of the cranck or the cam (which is lower)?

Here in Holland a reader of THE major camping magazine posted he had some troubles with his Subaru Forester (2.0) clutch (shutter)and that the car sometime had a burning smell. As a reply the magazine got over 200 letters from other owners and started to make a big issue of it. Here Subaru's are popular for caravan towing (up to 1500kg) but still are not sold in great numbers so this is a large number. The magazine asked te main Subaru distributer (is that what you call it?) to reply. He promissed to get an answer from Subaru Japan.... Now whats the conclusion of the USMB on these isues. I have a 96 Ouback with automatic transmission, so I never really read the shutter stories. I had the smell years ago but then only when towing a 1400 kg caravan up hill. The bruning smell has lots of explinations: - wrong grease in the drive axles (I don't believe that but..) - oil leaking or blown on the exhaust (could be) - .... I don't mind to send a letter to the magazine. What would you suggest I put in it? What is the cause and what is the solution? And which models does it effect? Jaap

I know that in The Netherlands most models with the 2.0 engine have the extra high/low gear. Its in Forresters, Impresa and Legacy. However I have only seen Legacy's with the 2.5, and only in combination with the automatic transmission. JaapH