Scotty1419

Hey thanks for the help I just took some pictures and when i get the camera ill take a video that might help a little bit. hopefully you can see some of the splicing that was done. the gray splicing looks pretty factory looking but i dont think the black tape is factory. also i have used an obd2 scanner but i hear that since the swap was done the scanner might not be very accurate. i noticed the maf reading seemed kinda low

i made a list of what i saw... blk/red wire w gray lace spliced to 2 blk/red wires w gray lace big red wire spliced to a little red wire w gray lace blk/red spliced to gray 3 red gray laced spliced to 1 red gray lace big blue/red spliced to little blue/red w gray lace big gray and gray/red spliced to blk/red big gray spliced to little white wire with gray lace I also noticed that the cam and crank sensors had black and blue wires. and my wiring diagram says they should be blk/white and my maf sensor has yel/blue w gray lace and a white and a pink w/ gray lace coming out of it and my book says it should have red/yel yel/blue and it says pink is for 1997 models only. Im using the wiring diagram out of the haynes manual

well that's just the thing.. we don't think anything is wrong with my engine.. we've replaced just about everything you can for a misfire and compression was spot on.. The diagnosis is that my car is definitely running rich and fouling up plugs. I checked the wiring leading into my ecu and there was definetly work done there.. i counted about 8 wraps of electrical tape on different combinations of wires. some of the electrical tape was gray(factory?) and the rest was black electrical tape. now i know for a fact ive never been under there splicing together wires so it wasnt me. My question is would a 98 legacy gt with a 95 legacy engine swap require wiring changes? because im assuming he must have had to rewire things when he did the swap and possibly messed up on something there. I noticed a few wires such as my cam and crank sensors not the same color as what my haynes manual says they should be

Well i called my mechanic who did the 2.2 swap for me and he said he will do another engine swap.. but he said there is a possibility that that may not even fix my miss fire and that it very well could be a electrical wiring harness problem in the dash. My question to you guys is, how would i go about checking electrical things under the dash and what should i be looking for? burnt wires or?? And also what electrical wires would cause a missfire if they werent working right? I am assuming ignitor, maf, cam and crank sensor, knock sensor wires? Thanks

Well im tired of fooling with it.. I obviously cant fix this stupid car.. and no one else can.. so im just going to pay to have another 2.2 swap done.. oh well.

Hey, to test your cat converter I just take out the 2 bolts in the flange before your converter and seperate the pipe from the converter and start it up. it will be really loud but if the car runs right then thats your problem. Also make sure you properly installed your knock sensor. heres a link to a good informative write up on how to porperly do it. --> http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=120610

so your saying if your egr valve is closed off it would mess up things?? because i had a 2.2 swap done and the egr valve on my engine was unplugged and brazed shut and all disconnected and i cant figure out why he did that

I made/uploaded 2 videos to you tube to show what my car is doing.. The picture isn't the greatest and its a little shaky but i showed some of the stuff on my scanner like air flow and timing advance and stuff, you just have to pause it to see it. If anyone has any thoughts/suggestions id appreciate it. thanks.

its a female one.. looks exactly like the one i got on my subby

hi, i was wondering if a diamond coilpack off a 95 impreza would fit the 2.2l engine ej22 in my 98 legacy gt?? Thanks

okay. i will call him tomorrow and see if i can get my old ecu back... that does make sense though.. because im getting a maf sensor code and a cam position sensor code and they are both fine..

I had originally thought that and asked the mechanic he said he used the ecu that came out of the car with the 2.2 engine that he put in mine. and he also tried swapping that ecu with another 2.2 when i brought it to him with the missfires to see if that would fix it but it was the same.

thanks for the help.. My fuel trim reading are in the -30% range also.. and i had a maf code.. however i replaced the maf sensor with a new one and nothing. my obd2 reader doesnt tell me fuel pressure i guess i would need a gauge or something? but yea my car is doing the exact same thing yours was doing... plugs are fouling up completely black and smell like fuel.. put like 6 sets of plugs in it already

Thank you for your help, I think your right its something we over looked at the beggining and i need to go back.. How exactly would i check if the cam sprocket moved on the pulley? remove the pulley? i just had all that apart and verified that the timing marks was correct so i know that is right. I have checked my battery and it has 12.56 volts. also i cleaned the 4 screws that are grounded to the struts area on passenger and driver side. is there any other engine grounds that i missed?

thank you for posting the link and for the diagrams appreciate it.

im geting missfire codes for all 4 cylinders. and oh yea i forgot theres diagrams in my haines manual. thank you for reminding me!

well i just had the timing belt off to verify it was all tdc. i dont think i missed a tooth.. ugh i really dont want to do all that again.. the car runs like crap all around tho form the moment it starts up

Sorry the car is a 1998 legacy gt limited auto trans.I paid a good suby mechanic that was recommended to me on here to do the 2.2 swap for me.he put in a 1995 ej22 in the car. He closed off the egr valve and disconected it for some reason. hence the egr valve code. the car ran awesome from aug 2010 till april 2011. then it just started missfiring. Ive tried literally everything. the only thing i can think is wiring problem somewhere. also ive put in like 5 sets of plugs they just foul up completely black because the car is running rich. ive tried oem plug wires and duralast plug wires

thank you.. i pulled the cam and crank position sensors and tested both for resistance.. both sensors were good. I also replaced the maf with a new one but car still has missfire.. Im really thinking theirs a short or something is corroded in the wiring harnesses somewhere or no ground or something electrical thats causing it to run rich and miss.

Hi i have a missfire that im pretty sure is electrical. i was wondering if anyone had a wiring diagram for a 95 leggy 2.2l ej22 engine. i would really appreciate it. thanks Scott

Thank you, i tested the cam sensor and the resistance was 2400 ohms so it was ok. i put on a brand new maf and the car still runs like crap so im guessing its a wiring harness problem or something with wiring. I have been using my obd-2 scanner and i recorded a log file of whats going on when the engine is running if anyone knows anything about what the values should be while the engine is running and could maybe point me in the right direction iid appreciate it. i noticed the ignition timing advance changed alot when it was missing.. would that be because of the knock sensor? 0,1,13," Vehicle Speed 0 MPH 0 Km/h" 0,1,12," Engine RPM 1438 RPM" 0,1,17," Throttle Position Sensor (absolute) 0.0 %" 0,1,4," Calculated Engine Load Value 7.8 %" 0,1,4," Calculated Engine Load Value 7.8 %" 0,1,5," Engine Coolant Temperature 117 degF 47 degC" 0,1,14," Ignition Timing Advance 33.0 deg" 0,1,11," Intake Manif. Pressure (absolute) 11.2 in.hg 38 kPaA" 0,1,16," MAF sensor Air Flow Rate 1.2 lb/min 8.9 gm/s" 0,1,16," MAF sensor Air Flow Rate 1.2 lb/min 8.74 gm/s" 1,1,12," 1250" 1,1,12," 1275" 1,1,12," 1275" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1288" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1300" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1275" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1250" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1650" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1713" 1,1,5," 118" 1,1,12," 1438" 1,1,5," 118"

Okay i got a br-3 obdii scanner and plugged it in to my subaru.. im getting 4 codes.. "MIL indicator lamp is ON Vehicle Reports 4 Codes stored. 4 Codes were retrieved: P0183 P0341 P0403 P1100 " also i know that is camshaft position sensor circuit range error. my question is should i replace the sensor or not? would replacing it fix my missfire? some help decyphering please? thanks Scott

Okay i got a br-3 obdii scanner and plugged it in to my subaru.. im getting 4 codes.. "MIL indicator lamp is ON Vehicle Reports 4 Codes stored. 4 Codes were retrieved: P0183 P0341 P0403 P1100 " some help decyphering please? thanks Scott

hi thanks for responding, no the bulb doesnt turn on when i start the engine. and my car is a 1998 subaru legacy gt limited edition. with the TZ102Z2DCA-KE automatic transmission type. the engine in the car is a 95 2.2l engine thats all i know about it.

Hi guys I just have two quick questions if anyone has answers i would greatly appreciate it. first off how can i test my MAF Sensor too see if its working properly? i have an obd2 scan tool with diagnostics if thats whats needed? and my second question is how do you plug/unplug your Check engine light on your gauges. i have reason to believe mine was unplugged or something after the 2.2 swap was done because the egr is disconected and closed off and i read that that will throw a cel all the time.. also i was wondering why exactly did he close off the EGR thing when he did the 2.2 swap?thank you Scott