[How to remove mouse nest/debris from around heater core?]

Ok, thank you all for the replies. It sounds like I'll be pulling the dash at some point, as soon as I can make some room in the garage.

 

Also, does anyone know where to get a heater core, so I can do some preventative maintenance while I have it apart?

[How to remove mouse nest/debris from around heater core?]

Thanks guys. Is there anywhere I can cut a hole to access the area I need to get to? I was hoping it wasn't the "pull the dash" answer, but if that's what it's got to be, then so be it!

Thanks again.

[How to remove mouse nest/debris from around heater core?]

A while ago, some mice got into my '86 GL, and made a hell of a mouse resort for themselves in the heater ducts, fan, and around the heater core. I've gotten most of the insulation they used out of the ductwork and fan, but I'm not sure how to remove it from around the heater core since it's buried in the dash. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on how to get it out from around the heater core? Thanks!

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

Yes, I understand the signal goes from the dash to the ECU. I performed the signal test while driving the car. I do agree it seems really weird that there is no VSS code.

 

Does anyone know if the signal from the reed switch is a square wave? If it's not, then that's why I wouldn't see anything on the meter.

 

-Jason

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

So.....if you aren't getting a CEL, then how do you know it's not sending the signal?

I've hooked up a digital square wave meter to the VSS wire to the ECU, and I get no pulse. Plus, the launch control feature of the ECU doesn't disable. The launch control feature disables with VSS sees > 2mph from the VSS.

 

Thanks for sticking with me on this.

-Jason

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

Ground to the black wire,

 

VSS to the Yellow/Green

 

Yes, this is exactly what I did. I ran a ground wire to the black wire on the connector, and ran a wire from the VSS wire on the ECU to the yellow wire on the connector.

 

Thanks again,

-Jason

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

I tried grounding that connector I posted a picture of above, but no dice. Any other suggestions or ideas?

 

I'm also getting no CEL for a missing VSS sensor. EJ20 ECU.

 

Thanks,

-Jason

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

I scrounged around a little more under the dash, and I found this connector. It's not black, but the wire colors sound like they are the correct color. Is this what I'm looking for? The connector was taped down to the wire loom up by the firewall under the dash on the driver side.

 

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

So, I looked for 5-10 minutes or so for the black 2-wire connector behind the cluster, but couldn't find it. Is it up under the dash somewhere?

 

Btw, this is the wire I tapped for the VSS signal:

 

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

Awesome, thanks for the help. I'm excited to find this connector after work! I'll keep you guys posted and post a pic if possible.

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

Way up under the dash. In the far drivers side corner up towards we're the harness goes through the firewall, there is a 2 pole "t" connector with a yellow/red and a black wire. Black connector. This is the cruise optional hookup for the vss. Connect the black wire to ground. The yellow red is the vss signal.

 

You can get it at the dash like you described. But I think you need to give the reed switch with that ground.

 

This is for the EA82, correct? So it sounds like I tapped the wrong wire. I will hunt for this connector after work today and let you guys know if I can find it.

 

Thank you.

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

So, I'm hoping I did this correctly. I found I wiring diagram, and it looks like the VSS/reed wire I want to tap into is pin 4, Yellow/Red on a round connector on the back of the instrument cluster. Is this correct? I tapped into this, but it is not producing a square wave like i think it would.

[Locating VSS wire on '86 GL]

I'm trying to find the VSS wire to hook up on my '86 GL carb. I have the cluster pulled currently, but I'm not sure which wire it is. I see posts saying it's marked as the reed switch, but I'm not finding any such markings, and I don't have the EA82 wiring diagrams. Could someone point out the correct connector and wire color (picture would be a bonus!).

 

From the few posts I found while searching, I couldn't find anything descriptive enough for the EA82.

 

Thank you,

-Jason

[Hellosubaru's EA/EJ build/rebuild thread]

Finally, an update!

 

In late December, I finished up with installing the new engine/trans/everything else. I took it for a few test runs, and everything was running great. After a few days, I started wrestling with drive-ability issues (erratic idle, misfires, no power, etc). I couldn't tell if the ECU was still relearning, or if there was an issue with one or more of the sensors. It kept going down hill, until it wouldn't start anymore.

 

I finally found out it wasn't running correctly due to it constantly fouling spark plugs. I did a fuel pressure test on the feed side, and had 66psi of fuel pressure. Ouch! I tested the return side, and there was almost 80psi, so it looked like I'd be replacing my return fuel line. I think it was a combo of being a very small (1/8") return, blocked, and possible a pinched hard line. After replacing the fuel lines, the car ran great, and has continued to for about 2-3 weeks now!

 

Here are some pics of the finished product:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Next on the list of things to do: hood scoop for IC, lighter front bumper, fix exhaust, and give it a little more lift. 

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

I thought I'd post my end results in case this helps anyone. I've finally got the car running reliably.

 

I did another fuel pressure test shortly after I did my initial fuel pressure test, but this time I did it on the return side instead of the feed. There was ~80psi on the return, which confirmed my suspicion that something was wrong with the fuel lines.

 

I made some SS PTFE feed and return lines, and replaced all of the lines from the tank to the engine. After driving the car for a few days now, the plug have cleaned themselves up (they aren't completely fuel fouled black anymore), and the car is running great, smooth as ever.

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

So, I finally got around to doing a fuel pressure test, and this is definitely the issue: 66 psi!

 

So, I think I'm going to end up replacing all of my fuel lines (feed and return). Does anyone have any suggestion on what to use? Can I just use regular rubber fuel hose (MPI rated), or should I use SS braided hose, or something else? I'd prefer not to use hardlines, just because I don't like dealing with unions and bending that length of line.

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

Ok, I finally have an update and some results. Last Wednesday, I was finally able to pick up some new plugs (NGK iridium's). I swapped them in, and it fired right up. Sweet! I let it idle up to operating temp, then shut it off because I had to leave.

 

The next day (Thursday), I had to start it in flood clear mode (start WOT). I let it warm up, and I drove it about 25 miles. It drove fairly smooth, but at cruise it misses/stumbles/stutters.

 

Saturday, I drove it another 10-15 miles. It still drove pretty well. I was able to start it normally, let it warm up for 5 minutes or so. It still stumbles at cruise.

 

I haven't driven it since, but last night, I pulled one of the plugs to see what we had, and it was covered in black soot:

 

 

If I get off work early enough tomorrow, I'm going to test fuel pressure.

 

Any idea why the plugs are getting fouled like this?

 

Thanks again!

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

^Sounds good guys. I'll get some new plugs tomorrow if I get off work in time and let you know how it goes.

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

A bit of an update:

 

Yesterday I went out to try to start it, and it fired and ran? I let it idle up to operating temp, then shut it off because I had to go. While it was idling, it was pretty erratic, and if I gave it throttle, it would die sometimes, and other times it would respond. If I brought the RPMs up to 3-3.5k or so, I could hear it miss or stutter.

 

This morning, when I came out to try to start it again, it wouldn't start. I pulled the plugs, and behold, fuel fouled. I went over all of the intake hoses again and made sure they were ok, but found nothing.

 

BTW, I've had NGK plugs in the whole time, I must have been thinking about my other car with the Autolites.

 

Tomorrow I'm going to go get a fuel pressure tester. I'll post results when I have them.

 

Thanks again all.

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

^ Awesome, thank you!

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

Try new NGK iridium plugs and clean the MAF with the appropriate cleaner.

 

I've cleaned the MAF, but I will try getting NGK Iridium plugs today. I don't know the difference between plug types really, could you explain why Iridium plugs are worth the $6 per plug more than copper plugs?

 

You don't need to look for boost leaks, you need to look for unmetered air leaks. Air entering the intake stream behind the MAF. This throws the ECUs fuel mixture calculation off, and forces the mixture lean which is no good for starting or for idle.

The idle control valve hose is a big culprit on the non-turbo motors. Any hose that hooks into the intake tubing post MAF can be a source of unmetered air. Check the breather hoses, PCV valve hoses, all of them at both ends for loose connection.

 

ECT is engine coolant temperature. Generally when these fail the ECU gets a signal that the engine temp is something like -40 degrees. Makes hot starting a pain because it tells the ECU it needs an insanely rich mixture. Usually not an issue on cold starts, especially if its actually cold outside. But occasionally they fail the opposite way, or there is some kind of problem such as corrosion or bad wiring that tells the ECU the engine is hot, so you don't get enough fuel.

 

Ah, ECT. Yes, I've tried swapping between the one I had and a new one, but I get the same results. I've tested resistance on both of them too, and they are the same when they are the same temp.

 

As for unmetered air leaks, I did check for them (sorry, I called them boost leaks above). I've checked every hose and vac line I can after the MAF, but I haven't found anything.

 

Thanks again,

-Jason

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

Fuel fouling could just be due to lack of spark. Possibly a bad coil pack or igniter. Or low voltage to the coil. Check for 12V on the center pin of the coil harness with the key On.

What kind of spark plugs are installed, and what is the gap?

 

ECT sensor could be bad. Or there could just be a big air leak somewhere. Does that setup have a MAF sensor?

 

I've swapped between 2 coil packs, and had the same results. I've tested the coil pack as well per the FSM, and I've also tested for 12v on pin 2 (the center pin) and got 11.5v or so.

 

I think the plugs installed are cheap Autolites. I don't recall the gap.

 

What is the ECT sensor? I've checked for boost leaks every time I've troubleshot (which is a dozen times or so now), but have come up empty handed. Yes, it has a MAF sensor (the metal body type).

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

others will be in with some ideas. First, will it start with the pedal on the floor? That's the typical 'clear flood' routine.

 

It bucks a lot more, it may fire for a second, but won't run longer than a second or two.

 

do a compression test, maybe the oil control rings or some other issue with compression has cropped up. When you pull the plugs, see if they are uniformly wet or just some of them.

 

Compression is 150-160 on all four cyls cold. Plugs are uniformly wet with fuel on all four cyls.

 

recheck cam timing

 

Timing has been checked, is good.

 

Check fuel pressure - maybe high?

 

What's the best way to check FP?

 

sounds like a bad FPR, pull the vacuum line off while you try cranking. if fuel comes out, bingo.

 

my$0.02

 

I will try this tomorrow and post back what happens.

 

Sounds to me like a bad connection in the harness. Seeing how you had to disconnect everything to pull the engine, I would check all the electrical plug connections and grounds.

 

I've checked all the connectors in the engine bay, along with at the ECU. I've also done quite a few voltage and resistance tests for the harness and ECU/sensors/injectors/coil, and all were within spec.

 

Thank you all for the help, much appreciated!

[EJ22t won't start, floods with gas]

I just rebuilt my EJ22t. Before the rebuild, the car ran great.

 

After the rebuild, the first time I started the car for break in, it ran great. It came up to temp normally, and idled fairly smooth. I drained the oil, and drove the car for about two days normally.

 

After about the 2nd day, the engine started missing/stuttering at cruise and under accel. It went downhill progressively from there as I can remember. It kept missing or stuttering at cruise, then it would start hard, rough idle, then started dying at idle, then eventually stopped starting/running.

 

When cranking, it at least tries to fire. After cranking for a few seconds (10 seconds or less), the car is completely flooded (plugs are fuel fouled, gas in cylinders, smells of gas).

 

Does anyone have any ideas at all? I've performed all of the diagnostic steps from the FSM for:

 

Control Unit Power supply and ground line

Ignition Control System

Fuel Pump Circuit

Fuel Injector Circuit

 

All tests come back within spec. I am now totally stumped. Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong?

 

If it matters, it's an EJ22t in an '86 GL.

 

Thank,

-Jason

[Hellosubaru's EA/EJ build/rebuild thread]

sweet thanks.. insta-googled it for ************s and giggles. 314 bucks on a random subaru parts website. Price sound about right? They didnt have a picture of the part, just Gear set HYP was the only info the part number had

 

SubaruGenuineParts has it for $287 if I remember right, and they are legit.