hellosubaru

Ok, thank you all for the replies. It sounds like I'll be pulling the dash at some point, as soon as I can make some room in the garage. Also, does anyone know where to get a heater core, so I can do some preventative maintenance while I have it apart?

Thanks guys. Is there anywhere I can cut a hole to access the area I need to get to? I was hoping it wasn't the "pull the dash" answer, but if that's what it's got to be, then so be it! Thanks again.

A while ago, some mice got into my '86 GL, and made a hell of a mouse resort for themselves in the heater ducts, fan, and around the heater core. I've gotten most of the insulation they used out of the ductwork and fan, but I'm not sure how to remove it from around the heater core since it's buried in the dash. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on how to get it out from around the heater core? Thanks!

Yes, I understand the signal goes from the dash to the ECU. I performed the signal test while driving the car. I do agree it seems really weird that there is no VSS code. Does anyone know if the signal from the reed switch is a square wave? If it's not, then that's why I wouldn't see anything on the meter. -Jason

I've hooked up a digital square wave meter to the VSS wire to the ECU, and I get no pulse. Plus, the launch control feature of the ECU doesn't disable. The launch control feature disables with VSS sees > 2mph from the VSS. Thanks for sticking with me on this. -Jason

Yes, this is exactly what I did. I ran a ground wire to the black wire on the connector, and ran a wire from the VSS wire on the ECU to the yellow wire on the connector. Thanks again, -Jason

I tried grounding that connector I posted a picture of above, but no dice. Any other suggestions or ideas? I'm also getting no CEL for a missing VSS sensor. EJ20 ECU. Thanks, -Jason

I scrounged around a little more under the dash, and I found this connector. It's not black, but the wire colors sound like they are the correct color. Is this what I'm looking for? The connector was taped down to the wire loom up by the firewall under the dash on the driver side.

So, I looked for 5-10 minutes or so for the black 2-wire connector behind the cluster, but couldn't find it. Is it up under the dash somewhere? Btw, this is the wire I tapped for the VSS signal:

Awesome, thanks for the help. I'm excited to find this connector after work! I'll keep you guys posted and post a pic if possible.

This is for the EA82, correct? So it sounds like I tapped the wrong wire. I will hunt for this connector after work today and let you guys know if I can find it. Thank you.

So, I'm hoping I did this correctly. I found I wiring diagram, and it looks like the VSS/reed wire I want to tap into is pin 4, Yellow/Red on a round connector on the back of the instrument cluster. Is this correct? I tapped into this, but it is not producing a square wave like i think it would.

I'm trying to find the VSS wire to hook up on my '86 GL carb. I have the cluster pulled currently, but I'm not sure which wire it is. I see posts saying it's marked as the reed switch, but I'm not finding any such markings, and I don't have the EA82 wiring diagrams. Could someone point out the correct connector and wire color (picture would be a bonus!). From the few posts I found while searching, I couldn't find anything descriptive enough for the EA82. Thank you, -Jason

Finally, an update! In late December, I finished up with installing the new engine/trans/everything else. I took it for a few test runs, and everything was running great. After a few days, I started wrestling with drive-ability issues (erratic idle, misfires, no power, etc). I couldn't tell if the ECU was still relearning, or if there was an issue with one or more of the sensors. It kept going down hill, until it wouldn't start anymore. I finally found out it wasn't running correctly due to it constantly fouling spark plugs. I did a fuel pressure test on the feed side, and had 66psi of fuel pressure. Ouch! I tested the return side, and there was almost 80psi, so it looked like I'd be replacing my return fuel line. I think it was a combo of being a very small (1/8") return, blocked, and possible a pinched hard line. After replacing the fuel lines, the car ran great, and has continued to for about 2-3 weeks now! Here are some pics of the finished product: Next on the list of things to do: hood scoop for IC, lighter front bumper, fix exhaust, and give it a little more lift.

I thought I'd post my end results in case this helps anyone. I've finally got the car running reliably. I did another fuel pressure test shortly after I did my initial fuel pressure test, but this time I did it on the return side instead of the feed. There was ~80psi on the return, which confirmed my suspicion that something was wrong with the fuel lines. I made some SS PTFE feed and return lines, and replaced all of the lines from the tank to the engine. After driving the car for a few days now, the plug have cleaned themselves up (they aren't completely fuel fouled black anymore), and the car is running great, smooth as ever.

So, I finally got around to doing a fuel pressure test, and this is definitely the issue: 66 psi! So, I think I'm going to end up replacing all of my fuel lines (feed and return). Does anyone have any suggestion on what to use? Can I just use regular rubber fuel hose (MPI rated), or should I use SS braided hose, or something else? I'd prefer not to use hardlines, just because I don't like dealing with unions and bending that length of line.

Ok, I finally have an update and some results. Last Wednesday, I was finally able to pick up some new plugs (NGK iridium's). I swapped them in, and it fired right up. Sweet! I let it idle up to operating temp, then shut it off because I had to leave. The next day (Thursday), I had to start it in flood clear mode (start WOT). I let it warm up, and I drove it about 25 miles. It drove fairly smooth, but at cruise it misses/stumbles/stutters. Saturday, I drove it another 10-15 miles. It still drove pretty well. I was able to start it normally, let it warm up for 5 minutes or so. It still stumbles at cruise. I haven't driven it since, but last night, I pulled one of the plugs to see what we had, and it was covered in black soot: If I get off work early enough tomorrow, I'm going to test fuel pressure. Any idea why the plugs are getting fouled like this? Thanks again!

^Sounds good guys. I'll get some new plugs tomorrow if I get off work in time and let you know how it goes.

A bit of an update: Yesterday I went out to try to start it, and it fired and ran? I let it idle up to operating temp, then shut it off because I had to go. While it was idling, it was pretty erratic, and if I gave it throttle, it would die sometimes, and other times it would respond. If I brought the RPMs up to 3-3.5k or so, I could hear it miss or stutter. This morning, when I came out to try to start it again, it wouldn't start. I pulled the plugs, and behold, fuel fouled. I went over all of the intake hoses again and made sure they were ok, but found nothing. BTW, I've had NGK plugs in the whole time, I must have been thinking about my other car with the Autolites. Tomorrow I'm going to go get a fuel pressure tester. I'll post results when I have them. Thanks again all.

^ Awesome, thank you!

I've cleaned the MAF, but I will try getting NGK Iridium plugs today. I don't know the difference between plug types really, could you explain why Iridium plugs are worth the $6 per plug more than copper plugs? Ah, ECT. Yes, I've tried swapping between the one I had and a new one, but I get the same results. I've tested resistance on both of them too, and they are the same when they are the same temp. As for unmetered air leaks, I did check for them (sorry, I called them boost leaks above). I've checked every hose and vac line I can after the MAF, but I haven't found anything. Thanks again, -Jason

I've swapped between 2 coil packs, and had the same results. I've tested the coil pack as well per the FSM, and I've also tested for 12v on pin 2 (the center pin) and got 11.5v or so. I think the plugs installed are cheap Autolites. I don't recall the gap. What is the ECT sensor? I've checked for boost leaks every time I've troubleshot (which is a dozen times or so now), but have come up empty handed. Yes, it has a MAF sensor (the metal body type).

It bucks a lot more, it may fire for a second, but won't run longer than a second or two. Compression is 150-160 on all four cyls cold. Plugs are uniformly wet with fuel on all four cyls. Timing has been checked, is good. What's the best way to check FP? I will try this tomorrow and post back what happens. I've checked all the connectors in the engine bay, along with at the ECU. I've also done quite a few voltage and resistance tests for the harness and ECU/sensors/injectors/coil, and all were within spec. Thank you all for the help, much appreciated!

I just rebuilt my EJ22t. Before the rebuild, the car ran great. After the rebuild, the first time I started the car for break in, it ran great. It came up to temp normally, and idled fairly smooth. I drained the oil, and drove the car for about two days normally. After about the 2nd day, the engine started missing/stuttering at cruise and under accel. It went downhill progressively from there as I can remember. It kept missing or stuttering at cruise, then it would start hard, rough idle, then started dying at idle, then eventually stopped starting/running. When cranking, it at least tries to fire. After cranking for a few seconds (10 seconds or less), the car is completely flooded (plugs are fuel fouled, gas in cylinders, smells of gas). Does anyone have any ideas at all? I've performed all of the diagnostic steps from the FSM for: Control Unit Power supply and ground line Ignition Control System Fuel Pump Circuit Fuel Injector Circuit All tests come back within spec. I am now totally stumped. Does anyone have any ideas what could be wrong? If it matters, it's an EJ22t in an '86 GL. Thank, -Jason