hellosubaru

SubaruGenuineParts has it for $287 if I remember right, and they are legit.

The part number I have on file that I used is 38100AB680.

The transmission started off as a 4.11. I purchased the 4.44 gear set from subarugenuineparts.com, the ring and pinion was a direct swap. I have the part number somewhere if you're interested. As for the bedliner, it's worked ok. I don't think I prepped as well as I should have. I did 2 coats, but a lot of it has worn off in one year already. Again, I attribute this to bad prep on my part. I used 2 gallons for the exterior. As for masking, I just masked once, and it turned out pretty good.

https://www.farnorthflatfour.com. It's fairly new, not many members.

Well, it's been a few weeks. Work has been extremely busy, and the Thanksgiving weekend was thrown into the mix, but progress has been made. The transmission is rebuilt, and installed in the car: The rear end has also been re-geared: 3.70 LSD is now a 4.44 LSD The LSD swap was quite simple. I had a 4.44 open diff out of an Outback. We just took the ring and pinion out of the Outback diff, and swapped it into the GL diff with the LSD. Also, the switch control panel was finished: The shift linkage has also been shortened, and the driveshaft is at Driveline Services getting shortened as well. The last thing on the agenda is the turbo swap, and beefy battery cables. After that, it's just buttoning up all the loose ends!

11/04/2012, my bros and I finished up the rear disk swap and 6 lug conversion: 11/06/2012, my friend Andy tore down and rebuilt the 5spd trans with 4.44 gears. Old gears: New: Also, my other friend Marcus, and I, did a bunch of wiring for the control panel and in cabin winch controls, along with new power distribution.

The last three weeks (10/02 - 10/16/2012), we've been working on the trans mount/guard for the EJ trans. It's now complete, thanks to my friend Alex: Next up is re-gearing the trans, swapping around diff parts (carriers and gearing), and figuring out the driveshaft and linkage. Not much has happened in the past few weeks (10/23 - 10/30/2012). I've done a lot of wiring, and we started on the rear disk swap last night. -Jason

Well, not much happened this week (10/02/2012), I got the EA diff out, and compared it with the EJ diff. They are pretty much identical on the outside. It's amazing that these were manufactured 14 years apart from each other: I just need to figure out how to get the EA axles splined to the EJ diff. I think I'm either going to swap the carrier from the EA (since it's an LSD) to the EJ, so I can bolt the stub shafts in and use the EA axles, or use EJ inner cups with the EA axles, I'm not sure yet. So if you have an opinion, let me know! EA: EJ: Here's the EJ trans mocked up in the EA: Hopefully there will be much more progress next week!

09/11/2012 we got the long block mostly assembled: And a few pictures of some of the parts I've been collecting for this build over the past year: Next time we should finish the long block, and start working on all of the EJ drivetrain parts. 09/18/2012, Engine is now fully built:

09/04/2012, Andy and I got the EJ22E-T pulled from the GL: Yesterday, Andy measured tolerances and put the pistons in the freshly machined block (thanks to Adam at NWRS): More next week.

If the dates don't make sense in this post, it's because I copied this build thread from another local Subaru forum I run. I figured people on USMB would like to see this too. So, I've never really done a build thread before, so I figured, hey, why not? Before the build/rebuild part starts, here's a little history on the car: I purchased this '86 GL for $150. Both front hubs were stripped, so I had a RWD soob for a while. The one tire fires in the rear were awesome. It came with the stock 1.8 carbed EA and the DR 5spd. Fast forward a few months. Both hubs are replaced, and it runs pretty decent. . After the lift went in, it needed a little more gusto. My friend Andy found a guy getting rid of a whole '93 Legacy for $150. He had punched a hole in the torque converter, and was done with the car. So out with the EA: The same day I picked up the EJ, I found a guy in the Seattle area (I think Suberdave?) getting rid of a whole EJ turbo swap (turbo, heads, DP, lines, etc.). After all said in done, in with the turbo EJ: At the same time, it got a fresh coat of bedliner: So here's how it stood: This concludes our history lesson. Now for the rebuild and upgrades.

Haha, right on, sounds like I'll do the carrier swap. Thanks again guys for the advice and pointers. I'll post back here when its done on how it goes.

Thank you for bringing this up. I was talking to my friend about this (who does rear end and trans work all the time), and he thinks it would be a better idea to get the EJ inner cups and mate them with the EA axles, so I don't have to mess with all of the preloads. Thanks again!

Awesome, thanks all. I think I will go with the carrier swap so I can use the stub shafts and original EA axles. I'll post up pics when I'm done.

Yes, I have a 4.44 5spd trans.

I'm attempting to swap in an '01 Outback rear diff into my '87 GL. They look like they are exactly the same on the outside, so I think they should bolt right in: My question comes in with the axles. On EAs, there are stub shafts in the diff. On EJs, the axles spline right into the diff: EA: EJ: What is the best option for putting rear axles in? Will EJ axles just spline right in, or should I transfer the chunk from the EA diff to the EJ housing and put the EJ ring gear on the EA chunk, that way I can reuse the stub shafts and axles from the EA? The whole reason for the diff swap is for changing to 4.44 gearing w/LSD. Thanks, -Jason

Where can you get the 4.444 R&P from? I've searched a little, but I've come up with nothing. The dealer near me wants a ton of money for it. Will this R&P fit into a 91-92 legacy trans?

Thanks Josh. So it sounds like I'm in the hunt for a Forester XT trans and a rear diff. Were any Forester's 5MTs, or am I better off finding a legacy trans and swapping the gears into that from the Forester? Any idea where I can find any Forester XT trans's? What year Forester's am I looking for? Also, did both MT and AT Foresters come with 4.44s? Thanks again.

Any guides or parts lists for EJ trans swaps? I saw a little bit in the EA2EJ guide, but would like a bit more info. Also, did any EJ trans's come with stock 4.44s? Thanks again, -Jason

I have a 1986 GL with an EJ22T and turbo 5spd d/r. I have a 3.7 LSD in the rear. I'd like to gear it to at least 4.11, or better yet, 4.44. The questions I have are: 1. Can this be done with the 5spd d/r, or will I have to find a different trans? If so, which car do I need the trans from? 2. I'd like to have an LSD or locker in the front. Is this possible? 3. What is the strongest clutch I can get for the 5spd d/r? I think I currently have an RX clutch in it. 4. Can you change the 4 low ratio in the d/r trans? It doesn't seem like it's low enough for me. Thanks, -Jason

Ok, I finally got around to checking this stuff out tonight. Battery cables and connections are good. I also replaced the white wire running from the alt to the fusible link box, but I'm still having the same issues. The problem may be marginally better, but the problem is definitely still there. Do you have any idea where the black/white and white/black wires run to that come out of the fusible link box? Also, do you know if the fat white wire from the alt is spliced into anything else other than the fusible link box? I'm wondering if I should just replace all of the wiring running into / out of the fusible link box. I also noticed tonight, when I drive over large bumps or through potholes, the voltmeter needle jumps around a bit (lights dim too a bit). Not sure if this is related. Thanks, -Jasno

Soo... I told you the wrong thing. I already have my charge light (w/r wire) hooked up to the b/w wire on the EJ alt. I also verified my voltmeter is hooked up to a switched +12v elsewhere. All other wiring I told you was correct. Sorry I didn't verify this before. Thanks for the help Gloyale, I appreciate it. -Jason

Also, I don't know if it matters in this scenario, but the charge light is on when the car is turned to ON (but not running). -Jason

I bought the hi/low bulbs. There isn't really a big difference between hi/low (in the kit i bought), but you can tell when you switch between hi/low. The hi/low bulbs were only like $15 extra, so I figured I'd go for it. -Jason

Thank you, I had no idea the charge light played that big of a role in the system. Do you have a wiring diagram that shows how all of the alt connections are made? I want to see how and where it is wired stock. Thank you, -Jason