hellosubaru

This is the kit I got: http://www.ddmtuning.com/Products/Apexcone-Raptor-HID-Kit The kit is really cheap ($30), but it was some of the best money I spent on my car. I got the 4500k bulbs. Visibility is great. I don't think oncoming traffic is such a big fan of them though, especially with the 4" lift. I really have no complaints about this kit, and I've been running them for a while now. -Jason

Like this? -Jason

Sorry I let this go guys, I got really busy with work. I'll try to give you all the info this time. I'm going to recap a lot, but also provide new / hopefully helpful info: Body of the car is an '86 DL sedan w/ d/r 5spd. EJ22-t and harness is from a '93 legacy wagon. The alt on the car currently has been tested good by a local battery/alt/starter shop. Voltage between batt to block, block to body, body to batt are 0.00V. Alt wiring: The three wires from the EJ alt pigtail are fat white, yellow, and black/white. 1. The fat white goes into the stock EA fusible link box. There are three fusible links in here, but I'm not sure where they all go. On one side of all three fusible links is the battery. On the other side of the fusible links are three wires, A) Fat white from alt, black/white, I don't know where it goes, C) white/black, I don't know where it goes. I can attach a pic of the fusible link box if needed, but like I said, it's the stock fusible link box in the engine bay, so I'm sure you've seen it before. 2. Yellow wire from the alt goes to switched +12v. 3. Black/white wire goes to an after market voltmeter. Symptoms: Voltmeter jumps around, anywhere between 11-14.5 volts while driving. Both the stock voltmeter and my after market voltmeter does this. It seems like if I accelerate quickly (like get on the freeway) it's even worse (fluctuates really fast). The battery is never dead, but I notice when I turn the key to on, more often than not, I have 11 volts or less. Also, my radio seems to lose power when the voltage fluctuates towards the lower side. I'm not sure if this is all related, but I thought I'd list everything. When the car is off, the battery reads 11.6-11.7 volts. This is a brand new Optima red top battery. Also, I can hear my fuel pump slow down when the volts drop. Thanks again all, -Jason

Engine / harness is out of a '93 legacy wagon. The engine was one of those "70k mi" ones from a wrecker, but I rebuilt it. I have two alternators, and the symptoms are the same with both of them. I had them tested as well at the auto electric shop, and they tested good. Let me know if you need more info. Thanks, -Jason

I did an EA to EJ swap a few months ago, and it runs awesome for the most part. The only issue that I've noticed so far, is that my voltmeter jumps around, anywhere between 11-14.5 volts while driving. Both the stock voltmeter and my after market voltmeter does this. It seems like if I accelerate quickly (like get on the freeway) it's even worse (fluctuates really fast). The battery is never dead, but I notice when I turn the key to on, more often than not, I have 11 volts or less. Also, my radio seems to lose power when the voltage fluctuates towards the lower side. I'm not sure if this is all related, but I thought I'd list everything. The way I wired the alt: fat white goes to battery, yellow goes to switched +12v, black is voltmeter. Any ideas what's going on, or know where to start troubleshooting? Thanks, -Jason

Any other ideas on this one?

Yes, all of the other gauges work (well, fuel and volt, oil and water are aftermarket gauges). Tach worked before the swap. I traced the yellow wire from the old coil back under the dash, and tapped in there. Maybe I need to source a new cluster. Thank you, -Jason

Hmm, disappointing. What do people do to get the stock tach working, or what do they do for a tach? From all the posts I read, I just assumed everyone was hooking the tach straight up to the ECU.

The EJ was swapped into an '86 GL. Like I said, the tach is hooked up to the ECU pin labeled tach in all of the EJ wiring diagrams. -Jason

After getting my EJ22t swap running, everything works great, except for the tach. Currently I have the tach wire from the ECU (B56.16) hooked up to the yellow wire that came from the old coil to the tach. I've read through the EA2EJ writeup, the harness info.pdf, and searched on here as well, but have not found an answer. Any ideas why it won't work? Thanks, -Jason

I haven't tried this yet. It doesn't look like it, but when I have key ON, I can hear a humming sound coming from what sounds like the coil pack. Also doesn't look like it. I unplugged injector #2, put a test light between the pins, cranked, and saw nothing. Yes I have. If I swap back to the NA ECU, the FP relay clicks, FP primes the system, and I get backfire, because the cam/crank pins are swapped. Not hooked up. Wouldn't the FP relay still click on and the FP prime the system, even if this wasn't hooked up? I have no idea if it would or wouldn't. Thanks, -Jason

Also if it matters, the Legacy donor car was an auto, swapped into a GL 5spd.

Short version: When I hook up the NA ECU with the harness pinned as NA, the car will start and run for 10-15 seconds. When I hook up the turbo ECU with the harness pinned as turbo, I get nothing. Any ideas? Long version: So I've been wanting to do an EJ swap forever, and the time finally came. I got a '91 Legacy donor car for free, because it had a bad tranny in it. While I was pulling the engine, I found all the parts on USMB for an NA-T swap (ECU, heads, turbo, exhaust stuff, sensors, etc.). So I swapped all the turbo stuff on. Installed the engine, and got all the wiring done. I plugged in the NA ECU first to see if it would start. It started right up, ran for 10-15 seconds real smooth, then just quit. Only code was 49, which is improper MAF sensor, since the turbo MAF sensor is hooked up. I thought maybe the NA ECU was bad, so I repinned the harness to turbo (swapped cam/crank sensor pins at ECU, added in the turbo sensors, and that's it). When I turn the car to ON, I get nothing. No check engine light, no FP relay. The main relay clicks though. Any ideas at all what is going on here? It's almost like the turbo ECU doesn't get any power for some reason. I have two turbo ECUs, and neither of them work. The NA ECU still works fine though (except for the harness being pinned as turbo). Any help is greatly appreciated. Thank you, -Jason

Does anyone know where to get all of the vac diaphram components to make the locker work? Being how I had a 23 spline 4wd trans before, I have none of this. Thanks!

Where does the vac solenoid hook up to the trans? Is it an electrical connection or mechanical?

Now this would be awesome! Did you mean find a 3.7 lsd, or 3.9? Also, where do i connect the vac solenoid to the trans if it really does have diff lock? You've got me excited now!

Got the sticker a few weeks ago and it looks great, thanks man!

Awesome, thanks. Do you know what the '92 legacy rear diff is geared?

Bellingham, WA.

I recently picked up a 5spd d/r trans from a wrecking yard to replace my old 5spd d/r. The car is a 1986 GL sedan 4wd. The old (original) trans was 23-spline, and the new one is 25-spline for the front axles. My question is, what gearing do the 23 and 25-spline trans have? 3.7, 3.9, something else? I'm pretty sure my rear is a 3.9 open (I was under there a few days ago and just glanced at it). I do not know what the new 25-spline trans came out of, it was already pulled and on the shelf at the wrecker. I'm sure that I need to match the gears front and back, so what are my options, assuming that the 25-spline is geared differently than the 23-spline? I also have a 1992 Legacy auto, would that diff work for me? Anything I'm forgetting? Bottom line is, if I need a new rear diff, where can I get one (or the gears to put in it)? Price is not too big of a deal at this point, but the less money, the better! Thank you for any help you can provide!

I'll stick with your diagram then, since I already cut out the diode. Thanks for your help Numbchux! -Jason

In this diagram, it shows that the Lg wire is connected to a diode, that comes from switched +12v, that goes to the ECU In Numbchux diagram from his writeup, it shows the Lg wire is connected straight from switched +12v to the Ign relay, and not to the ECU at all: I guess my question is, can I just attach the Lg wire from the Ign relay to switched +12v, or do I need to splice switched +12v between the Ign relay to the ECU? Is F47 pin 5 (or d5) used on an EJ swap at all? Thank you, -Jason