cygnus

Had the exact same thing my cruise cable was just barley lifting it off the support bar. loosened the nut at the end of the senter bar a litlle and cable and now the code is gone

http://www.discountbodyparts.com/catalog/?N=4294963365+1719+11745+5936&Nr=OR(brand:Replacement,brand:Kool%20Vue,brand:Perfect%20Fit,brand:US%20Auto%20Parts)&omPage=Part%20Name-Grille%20Assembly This grill maybe a little expensive but I have noticed that other parts from here seem to be fairly priced such as headlights, and foglight replacements.

Just finished my EJ25 swap was all over ebay, craigslist and so forth before comming across Jerry at http://www.ssisubaruspecialists.com/ He had a listing on Ebay and I called him up. After taking for 30 minutes or so I purchased my longblock from him. I live in NC and he is in MI, but that was not a problem he sent the engine on a pallet with estes turcking and I had it in 3 days. He offers a 3yr/36,000k warranty, I ended up paying 2300.00 due to the fact I did not send back my core, which would have knocked off 250.00, also I had eveything complete by him except intake, motor mounts, and my own timing cover, he threw in the gaskets for intake and the exghuast. It was a good chunk of money but in my option worth it. Sure I could have saved maybe $800 for a motor I would hope would last or get a new start for my wagon and not have to worry as much. I did install a new clutch kit from Phoenix Friction Products

I went with the following option.

Thanks for the reply's how ever went to fill up again and noproblem filled right up..I love those kinds of fix jobs, do nothing and it fix's itself..all too often thats not the case though. I will say without this forums and knowledge of the people on here I would not have swapped my motor, fixed my P0519 or p0420, codes and have working switch lights for my fog lights, cruise, windhsield defroster adn seat heaters, all from reading this site, Thanks everyone for your contributions.

Hey everyone, I have a 04 wagon, and just finished a complete EJ25 longblock Swap, after driving 200 miles went to fill gas, but the pump keeps shutting Off, tried a diffferent pump thinking somethings wrong still the same, It's always fill up at this station and has never had a problem before. I tried different positions with the nozzle pulling it out, turning it, trying to fill slower but still only lets me put in about 1/2 gal before clicking it off?? I had removed all the fuel line from the intake and simply hooked back up and the car started very first try after reinstallation. When I open the gas cap I smell a strong fuel smell, alot more than normal..Did I get air in the line is there a way to bleed it out? Car seems to run fine, no CEL, plenty of power no problems with filling gas or related issues before completing swap. Any help would be helpful.

Issue resolved by just fine tuning the TPS and adjusting the throttle and cruise cables, Subbie runs perfectly smooth with no MIL ,:banana:,

Bringing this one back with more info from another board.. http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/80-electrical-electronics/21446-wtf-light-bulb-seat-heater-switch.html

Ok thanks for the tips, I'm having the same problem will give it a try tonight. (next Day) Tried this and it runs smooth as butter...Thanks for your post..

How did you fix, or what was the problem that resolved your issue.

Thanks that is what I was thinking as well, I really appreciate your input with helping me try to figure this thing out. Found this link on adjusting will try later tonight http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f66/i-play-wrong-guy-throttle-position-sensor-76060/

Thanks All for your reply's After getting and trying the IACV still no improvement luckly I purchased through amazon and they will give a full refund. After using severial words of incouragement to my poor subbie, I checked the throttle and cruise cabels again and sure enough the cruise cable was to tight adjusted it to proper setting and no more p0519 code wow I can not stress enough to check these cables. However I also adjusted my TPS (throttle positioning sensor) and now am getting PO122error code so when I have more time I will try to fine tune that and hopefully get that resolved. I was wondering if adjusting the TPS up a little and then loosing the throttle cable would get the desired setting and remove the code. The TPS is at the lowset setting right now and I can not get the rpm lower than 1200k.

Found this online about MAF 1 CARDONE MASS AIR FLOW SENSOR, REMANUFACTURED -- A high quality, direct fit OE replacement mass air flow sensor; Precisely measures the amount of air flowing into the engine; Provides exact information used by the engine to calculate fuel delivery; Will not cause hesitation or stalling. But another website states it will cause Stalling? Damn another 180.00 decision..

Limp Mode, what the Heck is Limp mode.

I have a nice meter which I really barely know how to use can you provide more information on this, would I find this in my haynes manaul? I'm asumming I would test the wires/ plug pins that connect to the IACV for voltage correct? but how to test with it opened and closed? Thanks for your input

Just trying to trouble shoot the po519 code and had removed it when I cleaned the intake just checked to make sure it was set right, which it appears to be.

After reseting the code with my scanner it starts fine and no CEL, it will idle fine for as long as I let it no codes, as soon as I rev the engine above 2500-3000K CEL comes on motor stalls like it been governed, and will idle at around 1000 rpm. If I try to start with out clutch pushed in nothing happen's push clutch in car starts right up. I am using the CTS that came with my reman motor from SSI and it looks used I will try to put my old one on and see if that helps. When moving the IACV this moves very little in and out hardly can't see it moving, but can barely feel it moving maybe 1/64 of an inch, Does this move much? or should this move much? Thanks for your guys input.

Ok so I have a 04 outback mt ej25 I just swapped long blocks, when starting the first time it started right up no problems, When going for the first test drive in first gear at around 3000 rpm the motor stalled, did not cut out but just stopped power, Scanned it and got PO519, I had cleaned my IACV prior and was getting very slight movement wih the valve. I've checked for loose hoses, unconnected hose checked Throttle and cruise cables all appears good. and Have adjusted the TPS which then threw code PO509 as well. Reset TPS and now just getting PO519. If Idling car sounds great runs smoothe when I give it gas beween 2500-3000 rpm it cuts throttle power and goes back to Idle, I've ordered and new 315.00 IACV but worried that may not fix my problem would love to save the money and return it if I don't open it. Any help or Ideas greatly appreciated.

I found a reman motor drop in for $2300.00 3yr/36000 warranty so will be putting in this weekend, While tear to old motor down I see my timing belt is still intact, no i'm really wondering what the heck happened, I just changed my oil and yes there was oil in the motor when it went.

This was my personal commuter over 120 miles 5 days sometime 6 days a week, added up quick. Did you happen to read the rest of the post maybe I posted it unclear. I have owned the car since 8 miles.

Thanks for your guy's input. Not sure what I'm gonna do yet but will be buy some motor Monday so still have a day to research

Due to fact that there is now a large gap in the upper block area of the motor with bits or metal all over the engine campartment, I pretty sure its the complete motor, Really need to know about swapping with different models and what years are compatible. This motor is definately toast.

185,000K broken Timing Belt replaced at 105k was going to replace again but no need now.

Alright I have a 04 outback MT with EJ25 motor this was the base model, I need to get a replacement engine and have been looking around, Does anyone know what I can use? will an engine from an impreza or forester work, and whayears should I look for? Also does it really need to be a Manual engine or will and auto work just the same. I plan on completing the swap myself and have never swap motors before, I have replaced all 4 cv joints, and driveshaft and a/c compressor, myself also replaced a TB on a 91 jetta, reaplced the head on my 73 bmw 02, so I feel some-what comfortable swapping just don't know what motor to get to make the swap as easy as possible. Thanks for any help and input.