soobie_newbie67

replacing them might not be a bad idea. if the clicking doenst go away, i'll try that before i get drastic and start replacing expensive parts that are probably ok.

after finding out that i had left out the relief valves in the cam carriers, i got them installed and that fixed my clacking problem, but there is still one. (on the easy side to work on thank god) i have drivin the car about 150 miles now since the rebuild, and about 35 to 40 miles since i got the relief valves in. all the lifters have shut up except this on the passenger side of the motor. it is a quiet, soft tap, but i was wondering if it will go away, or if one of the lifters on that side has failed and wont pump up or whatever. btw, all lifters mizpah rebuilt.

Actually, believe it or not, book spec (fully warmed up) is 57 psi at 2500 rpm. but all of our motors are old and worn so of course its gonna be less. but get this. the subaru i sold, my 1987 Subaru GL station wagon, carburated engine, had just hit 200,000 miles on it. i took it to my automotive tech class and hooked a oil pressure gauge up to it. fully warmed up i was getting 57 psi at 2500 rpm. THATS BOOK SPEC! i was shocked for this motor had never been taken apart. must of had damn good care through its life. im just happy that this car, which is a 1988 Subaru GL-10 turbo, is working right, and im putting on my insurance on monday and im gonna start driving it immediately

omfg kanurys. if there was some way i could pay you i would. thank you thank you thank you for mentioning those check valves in the cam carriers. if you hadnt i would have never figured it out. those check valves werent even installed. when i took everything apart for the overhaul i took out the spring, bolt, and that little oil rail, but those check valves never fell out and i didnt even know about them. when i brought my cam carriers home after hot tanking them, i found those check valves in the bottoms of my part totes but didnt know what they were. i knew exactly what they were when you mentioned them. holy ************ thank you. the ticking from hell is gone, and oil pressure is up, WAY up. thank you. oh, and my oil pressures are 25 psi at idle and a little bit above 50 at 2500. thank you. oh, still running 10w-30.

ok, some answers. GD still have yet to get everything miked out. im going to have someone more professional then me do it so it definitely gets measured correctly. how do you tell about the bucks? i was not using the dash gauge, it doesnt have one, just a dummy light. i had to buy a universal oil pressure gauge kit. Loyale im running 10w-30 Federated brand at the moment with a Wix brand filter. probably 50 miles on both filter and oil since rebuild.

only 10 psi for 1000 rpms??? that doesnt make since. you'd be running 9 psi at 900 rpm. that wouldnt support anything. my 1987 Subaru GL carbed was running 47 psi at a 900 rpm idle, and 57 psi at 2500 rpm. 57 @2500 is what the book spec is so i was really surprised for an engine with 200,000 miles on it. i guess im gonna need to measure those parts like northwet said. oh, and i did get the lifters serviced. the oil pressure is so low that its obviouse the HLA's wont pump up.

lifters are still clacking and my Haynes manual said it can be because of the oil pump. pulled oil pump, replaced all gaskets, seals, o-rings, no change in oil pressure. does this mean i need a new pump? oh, oil pressure is just below 50 when first started at 1600-1800 rpm, and is at 25 and below fully heated up at same rpm.

still clacking, still idles high, but runs amazingly. did mizpah rebuilt HLA's, those silly little O-rings for the cam carriers that you get from the dealer, and it still clacks. but it doesnt clack nearly as bad or as loud as it ever did before, and when i put the new little o-rings in, when i first started it i was able to hear the HLA's adjusting after just 30 seconds. amazing. but, like i said, it still clacks, but im gonna live with it this time. im gonna drive it till something major happens, then do the EJ swap since i got a whole 1993 Subaru jegacy car thats trashed, but has a good perfectly running motor. scored for 100 bucks. but damn, i love stuck-to-the-seat feeling you get when that turbo kicks in. and driving around at night with the sun roof open and looking at the stars, goddamn priceless. thanks everyone for the help. oh, and if you still might have some ideas as to my problems, shoot.

i sold my 1987 Subaru GL station wagon with the 1.8 liter EA82 carb, and the guy who bought it drove it from Kennewick, WA to Spokane, WA the second day of owning it, and the timing belt failed. i feel like a jack rump roast.

its not really a matter of that. i wasnt expecting to have issues with the HLA's. and the engine that was in the car when i bought it (good thing i bought the car cheap) was already shot cause of the ********************* i bought it from. he overheated it then put cool water in it, and that was the end of that engine. plus, i bet i wouldnt have had any problems if i would have used the HLA's from the junk yard engine WITH the junk yard engine. i used the HLA's from the overheated engine, which had been sitting for 5 years with one of the heads off, and hadnt been ran. i had to drain the gas tank, flush out the fuel lines, and replace the fuel filter before the car would even run with the rebuilt engine. aka, junk yard engine. so no, your "feeling the burn" is not happening to me yet. just give it some more time, then maybe.....

there are 2 issues with this. i dont know how it ran before i bought it. i bought it used, and the guy had taken it apart cause he blew the headgasket. when i found the crack in cylinder #3, i just completely gave up on the engine that was in it and used that one i bought from the junk yard when i wanted to do that swap on my '87 GL. i have no clue how either of them ran when i made the purchases. i wish i live near one of you people so i could get professional help.

dont worry, i'll get the seals. and yes, im sending them in to get rebuilt, but not all of them. some of them actually pumped up and are doing their jobs, so far i have only found 1 that was truly bad. didnt pump up at all and the little rocker arm thing just sits there freely when the cam isnt pressing down to open the valve. oh, but that was for the passenger side of the engine. i still have yet to check the drivers side.

sweet, thank you northwet. after i get my HLA's all figured out i'll try adjusting the idle. im having the same problem as the guy who made the post. my car is idling about 1200 to 1500 rpm after fully warmed up, so i bet this will fix it.

i was wondering what that was. maybe it just needs to be adjusted. i noticed an adjustment screw right underneath it. or should i leave that alone seeing as i dont even know what it does.?? also, how do i know if its working correctly or if its bad?

thank you. but i still dont know if i found it. i guess im just that stupid. i found a "pinky-sized hose" that runs to the intake manifold below the throttle body then leads to this electrical thing on top of the thermostat, then runs to the intake plenum. then i also found a "pinky-sized hose" that runs to this little silver valve thats on the intake manifold thats right below throttle body, although im pretty sure that not it. god im so lost. pics would help me most, but im also able to work with very detailed descriptions. oh, northwet, why couldnt i find the IAC in my haynes manual? i must have scoured the book twice and couldn't find it.

i cant seem to find the IAC on the car (i straight up dont know where it is and can NOT find it in the book) whats CTS? i didnt know you have to reset the throttle position sensor and i dont know what FSM stands for. (i suck at understanding these so called "acronyms")

bumping thread looking for help.

alright, its settled then. im going to send them in and have them rebuilt and make sure i replace those o-rings with the ones that were recommended. i really dont see any reason to replace to replace the oil pump, i hooked a manual oil pressure gauge up and im getting around 54-55 psi at idle (put also im idling at 1500 RPM, please read my RPM issue thread, im still having problems)

holy ************, freaking awesome to hear from someone that close. for all i know your right down the street. anyway, i had bought a full gasket kit online and in the kit i did find the o-rings that i need for said application, but they werent like the ones pictured on page one. im pretty sure they are working fine, i bet the HLA's are probably just dead. GD, as i searched i noticed you posted about solid lifters. i would like to look into this if your willing to give me the info. if not, i guess i'll just let my grandpa buy me new lifters, then i will buy a new oil pump. but, i have replaced every single o-ring and gasket in the whole entire engine, cause like i said i bought a full gasket kit. the clacking is the only thing stumping me. oh, GD, like i mentioned, a few of the HLA's have broken retainers that hold them togther. (holds the part in that presses down) so, i had another engine that had good HLA's that operated correctly when pressed down by hand, so i replaced the broken ones with the good ones. was that a bad idea??? from what i read in another thread, the HLA's where in the.... what the frick are those things called that the camshaft strikes agianst, i keep forgetting. but anyway. maybe that was a problem? i really dont know.

i have a question about the HLA's. how often do they go bad? what makes them go bad? like i said i took the valve cover off on the passenger side, then i watch while my grandpa started the engine and oil just flooded around inside, so oil getting to the parts is definitely not the problem. im still going to check to see if those oil passages are clogged by RTV, but at the same time my grandpa says he'll buy me new HLA's if you guys say its a good idea that i do replace them, or if there is a better alternative.

well, maybe you should start reading too cause i said earlier that my kit came with o-rings and i replaced them when i put it back together. then i went on to say in a later post that im pretty damn sure that i got a little rtv in there when i put it back together so im gonna take off the cam carriers and check it out. on a different note i just got done taking off the valve cover on the passenger side of the engine. all parts are soaked in oil so i cause that means that everything LOOKS good so far, but im not gonna chance it, im still taking the cam carriers off and checking for rtv where it shouldnt be.

im pretty damn sure i probably got that rtv to close to those o-rings, so im gonna remove the cam carriers and check it all out. random off topic question: what would anyone recommend i use for engine oil in this turbo engine? right now im running Federated 10W-30 for the initial break in/ seating the rings. i think i heard someone say Valvoline? they said thats best for Turbo engines.

ok GD, you dont have be a total d1ckhead to me. i have rebuild serveral engines, but V-8s and V-6's, never a boxer engine, so dont even criticize when you dont know f*cking sh*t about me. im just trying to get help, and people are helping me realize my mistakes in a much nicer way then you *********************. im aware that im going to have to cam carriers and stuff apart and clean them out, which wont be very hard. oh, and for your information, i took the engine apart all the way down to splitting the case so i could replace the main and rod bearings. i do know what the f******* im doing GD, so dont assume. you know, GD, the whole reason im hear is to get help, and if you can help me with out being total f**king d**khead, then dont give me answer, that will make it easier for both of us. im surprised there are any new members here like me who dont know what they are doing once in a while with someone like you here who insults and bashes all the time.

lol. we are talking about my van. and the rattling is coming from the empty catalytic converter housing. i now am gonna have to cut out the empty housing and put in a straight pipe, or just deal with the rattling. if i turn my Subwoofers up, i cant hear it anyway.

alright, i definitely know what your talking about now. hmmmm, well, i really dont know what im going to about it now atm. the little hydrolic lifter things had little retainers on them that holds the center part in, and the majority of the lifters had broken retainers. i used the lifters from the old motor since they were all good, but wasnt able to replace all of them cause they wouldnt come out. i guess i'll have to figure something out soon. i dont want to have to buy new ones, seeing as the only ones i have found are on ebay, and cost something like, 40 bucks a piece. just checked ebay, actually 80 bucks for 4 of them.