Dogbone
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Thanks, he certainly is. And he loves his new Subie and was excited to take it out in the late Spring snow yesterday.
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My middle son's high school graduation present. Just got it this weekend. He loves it, and it seems to be quite an attention getter.
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Thanks and appreciate the links and advice.
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New to me 2001 Impreza 2.5RS, bought it for my middle son's high school graduation gift. Beautiful car, but only had one key from previous owner, and key is only sub-master or perhaps just valet key. Local Subaru dealership says they can cut new master keys, and program remote key fob if I find used one from ebay, etc. Can someone tell me what I'm looking for, as ebay shows a few different looking items? Also car has factory Subaru alarm system, does this require something different, special, or extra? Much thanks!
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I have a front driver turn signal in bumper good condition $20 plus shipping 714 580 0379
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My advice, check and/or tighten your A/C drive belt.
Then check your static pressure on the low side without compressor running, should be around 80 psi or so on an 80 degree F day (rule of thumb, 1 psi per degree F).
When compressor is running, the low side should drop to around 35-40 psi.
Hopefully you'll find you simply need to tighten your A/C belt, and maybe charge your system.
Good luck!
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Bypassing the belt protection system should not affect the function of the pressure switch, located low behind the front grill near the radiator. Nor should it affect the function of the evaporator temperature switch that cycles compressor to prevent evaporator from freezing.
The clicking you hear was most likely the clutch engaging/disengaging rapidly. Something is causing the compressor to cut in and out. This could either be a loose connection or the pressure switch simply doing it's job, indicating an undercharge or overcharge condition.
The screeching, probably drive belt slippage, could be as simple as the A/C belt needing tightening, or worse the compressor seizing up.
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Hi, I'm troubleshooting an AC system on an 87 GL Turbo, I saw your reply has to a post from someone with an 88 DL in Arizona a year ago. I tried your belt protection system bypass and it worked, sort of. The compressor came on, then made a clicking noise, then a screeching noise. So I shut it down. In fact, when those two wires are jumped, the cmpressor is always on,..like a jumped the low pressure switch, not the belt protection system.. I double checked the wires selected and it all checks. ( red/gree & red/black) Any ideas?
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My oldest son drives a '91 Legacy, and yeah it is more roomy and comfortable than my Loyale, and quite a bit quicker off the line. But I still get better MPG than he does!
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Well, we had a beautiful morning here in Virginia. Went out with Mrs. Dogbone to run some errands early, and came home and I decided to tackle a quick project I've been putting off for some time-- replacing the tired, worn out crackling and buzzing OEM stereo speakers in the front doors of my Loyale. Although I have several sets of generic speakers laying around from old vehicles and past projects, I didn't have the exact odd-ball size (5.25"?) originally equipped in the Sube. Since I'm a cheapskate I simply made some adapters out of some scrap industrial gasket material I had laying around. That gasket material is very stiff but lightweight and easy to work with and trim, much like a very thin sheet of wood, except it's waterproof. Anyway, a little persuasion here and a little soldering there, and now I'm able to play my tunes without them sounding like they're coming from a bowl of rice crispies. Good little upgrade, actually looking forward to my morning commute tomorrow. :cool:
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Good pictures on this thread that may help: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=98281
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I did the seafoam IAC clean "in place" initially. It did help, but it did not cure it. I pulled the line feeding the base of the IAC and filled it with seafoam. It took about 20 minutes of driving before it stopped the James Bond white smokescreen impersonation. Talk about attention grabbing. Again, I ended up just pulling the lines, taking out the screws, and cleaning the IAC by hand. Yes, it would be appropriate to have a new gasket. No, I did not have a new gasket, I was just gentle when I pulled it off and reused the old one. A word of warning. I do not recommend taking apart the spring loaded mechanism on the side. Nothing in there to clean, and talk about a PITA to get lined back up, hook up the spring, and reinstall the cover. Imagine reattaching a pocket watch mainspring while wearing a blindfold, and you'll get the idea. Just clean out the plunger and diaphragm assembly enough to get it freely moving, and call it good. :cool: Good luck.
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Had the exact same problem with my son's '91 Legacy when we first bought it. After initial warm up, idle oscillated from around 1300 down to almost (and occasionally) stalling. We pulled the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV), cleaned it up, and reinstalled. The spring loaded plunger was gummy from old gas/varnish/crud. Wagon idles perfectly now. Check out your IACV.
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Rotated the tires on my Loyale this afternoon.
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Well said! I simply can't understand the bad rap that EA82s get on this board. Keep on top of the timing belts, replace oil pump mickey mouse gaskets every 200k miles or so, and enjoy the engine for 3-400k miles or more. What's with all the hate? I currently own two Subes, my '91 Loyale, and a '91 Legacy that my son has claimed. So, yeah, I can compare an EA and an EJ. The Legacy will win a drag race against the Loyale, so what? I am happy with my little EA powered Loyale, 90 horsepower and all. Guys at my work, most of them drive newer 4wd trucks (and they have their share of issues/recalls believe me), yet they see me get to work in the same snow they do, but do it with a vehicle I payed $200 for and that gets around 28 mpg. Long live the EA82. :-p
