zacyork

your in luck for suspension and braking lots you can do in that catagory. performance wise not so much. intakes dont really make a difference-plus you loose out on low end. exhaust can flow a little better if you like the boxer sound. uprgrades on the 2.2 single overhead didnt happen too much. people looking for more power than the 2.2 usualy swap to the 2.5rs or ej20. dont get me wrong i love that motor and they are built pretty solid.

i have heard of people replacing the knock sensor on these years and it still going off. something about excessive vibration where it mounts. i heard there is a port just above where it is originally located that people use instead and that gets rid of the code. there is also threads out there talking about it being an ecu problem.

i do believe the oem cc is 185 thats at fuel pressure around 36psi

i agree with olnic. the ej22 was non-interference untill pretty much obd2 came out. just find out where the clacking is coming from. that word scares me (clacking). i prefer lighter noises like ticks. could be crank or rod bearings maybe? your talking about turning the motor with the belt off right?

im guessing you dont have a second person to help so you can pressure bleed. for safety sake i wouldnt put any sealer on the threads either. if it was me i would gravity bleed them for a while. then find something to keep pressure on the brake pedal, crack your bleeder then close it. then let up on that pedal. i takes a while this way but it works. i used an adjustable hood prop to push on the pedal

so your mulimeter will have an ohm setting. put it on that. disconnect your iacv and test between you leads at the connector. with the valve shut it should read 0 when you open the valve the ohms should increase. im sorry that i dont have the exact ohms it should be at. damn i wish my mitchel on demand works.

just a random idea but what if its going into limp mode which is why you cant get past that rpm. i dont know what rpm limp mode does but kinda sounds similar

the fuel pump is inline just in front of the tank. three bolts holding it up on a cover. i think most EA motors did this

i do believe the transmission part will be a problem. a lot of the time there is a different ecu for the auto compared to the manual. correct me if im wrong but thats usualy how it is for obd1 and obd2 vehicles.

i figured it was going to be a ground wire. thank you for the reply. having the pin number on the ecu will be handy indeed.

it has a lot to do with starting. its so the car wont start in gear. your are right that codes are not a tell all but they are there for a reason. it also doesnt say if its automatic or manual. i just couldnt see why that would make a car stall out at 3000rpm unless its some kind of neutral rev control. not trying to argue

so im working on a 1986 rx. somebody wired in an aftermarket cruise control. lets say they did a bad job. anyways somewhere down the line someone cut off one of the memory connectors for the ecu . i cant find that wire anywhere!!! anyone know the color wire it is? or where exactly it goes to so i can try to trace it. any help is good help thanks. oh by the way i found one of them the male end that is black and red wire

im pretty sure the neutral safety switch itself would throw a code if misbehaving. there are like 7 different nss codes. plus cars usualy wont start if its a bad switch

no prob. hope that helps. i wouldnt be worried untill it slips again. also if you were worried about the cable being too long. if it was too long you wouldnt be able to shift gears at all. just like the clutch not being engaged. if you can smoothly go though your gears then the cluch is engaging enough

you should be able to test the iacv with an ohm meter across the terminals. i dont remember the number but with it closed it should be 0. +0.5- if you open the valve the ohms should go up

does the clutch ever slip when the pedal is all the way up? slippage is cause by two things pretty much. the clutch disc itself being glazed or worn down too far, or weak pressure plate springs. if your pedal is up then your clamp force is in full effect. if it doesnt slip under power you are probably fine

before you keep throwing parts at it you need to trace where you lose your spark. the ignition system system isnt that huge. get a decent wiring diagram and trace your wires.

aftermarket o2 sensors can give you problems. i would recommend finding an oem sensor. also some are heated o2 sensors and some arent. try putting in your old one and see if the new codes go away

hello fellow subi lovers. my name is zac. i am currently an automotive technition at judd brothers auto and truck performance. was also building rally cars for ALLWHEELSDRIVEN in bend OR. anyways ive got a couple subis 1999 impreza and 1986 rx turbo. i have pics of both cars but cant figure out how to get them on this website lol. hopefully i will be of some help to you guys and excited to learn more

worst case scenario you can hit up any good parts store and they sell individual wires by length. just match it up.