oleman77
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Posts posted by oleman77
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There is a guy in Denver that rebuilds axles. "www.retroroo.com" talk to Shawn
These guys have real good rep http://www.cvaxles.com
Good luck...
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Dude just pull the engine and do it all in one day. Ive had mine out twice now, the second time had it on the ground in 30 minutes. You don't even need a engine hoist, just grab a buddy and you both can pull it out of there easily. You might want to do some other work to it while its on the ground but dude really you can get this done on a saturday easily. Power wash it and engine bay while its out too! If you lived nearby Id give you a hand....
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Does anyone know what can be used to replace my car door window seal? I heard that VW seal can be used but not sure and haven't been able to find a source on the good ole internet. Thanks guys...pete
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Looking for a steering wheel for my gen1 wagon blue in color. The wheel itself is ok but the white piece that holds the rubber center which you push to honk horn totally rotted away. Thanks guys...pete
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How did this carpet kit work out for you? I need one as well for a gen1 wagon (77 EA71)...
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Just bought mine at Carquest for $145 for the front axles out the door. Fit great, full warranty as well...
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Does it require certain refrigerant? Would I be able to get it charged? Could be interested if so....
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All 1983 and later USDM cars required cats regardless of whether or not they actually required one (CVCC Hondas, for example, had emissions below the EPA targets without one, which is why they didn't use one until cats were mandated).
Ok thanks!
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If your are in the US, yes it came with a converter on it.
I'm in US. Not sure what state it was originally purchased, but will go with that it came with one new. Thanks fella's....
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Does anyone know if back in 1986 a new GL would have come with a catalytic converter on it? I have a guy looking to buy mine but he has emissions he has to pass and he asked me if it came with it. I don't know for sure. Hoping one of you guys might know. Thanks fella's....pete
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Hey guys, i have a 86 EA82 that had all the smog stuff removed before I got it. The carb that was on the car was from a Nissan and was junk so I replaced it with a Weber. Emissions testing isn't required where I live but I have the car for sale and there is a person interested in it but lives in Albuquerque where emission stetting is required. Does anyone have an idea if it will pass an emissions test? It doesn't have a cat either. Thanks for the help fella's...
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Ok fella's, after several days of looking I finally found my problem. It ended up being a fuel injector(s). Not sure which one it was but I changed out the fuel rail and both injectors on #2 & #4 cylinders (left side). #4 is the cylinder that had the burnt valve so I suspected that injector but changing out the rail with both injectors in it I'm not positive. #2 injector wasn't even the right one (it was black) which makes that one suspect as well. Regardless the miss is gone! After injectors where changed I rechecked my vacuum. Its still low but did improve. Went from 13" to 15". Still 5" away from 20" but will keep looking. I plan on removing intake and installing new gaskets at a later time when I have a free weekend. When I do I will look for possible leaks while its off. Anyway stoked that the miss is gone.....ya baby!
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Darn, thought I found something.....anybody have any ideas?
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Throttle body, iac, manifold base to heads, fuel rail orings. Those are the non hose areas where there can be leaks.
There are a few hidden solenoids under the intake runners. Under the passenger side (#3) is the evap purge control solenoid. Two hoses there. If it has EGR there will be a BPT valve on the drivers side by the EGR, and at least one solenoid under the #4 runner. Check all the hoses there as well, there are several metal lines with short hoses between.
PCV valve and it's related hoses where they go down to the block.
There should be one or two lines coming from the number 3 runner that split at a T. One goes to the FPR on the back of the fuel rail, it can be hard to see. The other (possibly two) runs over to the passenger strut tower if you have a MAP sensor. They connect to a solenoid over there and there's a small line that goes from the solenoid to the MAP.
Then there's the turbo stuff, which is all above me since I've never dealt with a 22t engine. But be sure to check the gasket areas carefully.
I found 2 rubber lines (maybe 3/8") coming from the front top of my 4eat transmission connected to nothing and cant seem to find where they go. Any idea where they go and if they are vacuum lines? Thanks fella's....pete
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Ok guys, new OEM spark plug wires have been installed. Does appear to be running better but still have a miss. I also checked my vacuum and only have 13.5". I know thats low, should be like 20". I checked all vacuum lines with both carb cleaner and starting fluid and found nothing. Obviously have a leak but cant find it. Need some help finding it fella's, I'm out of ideas.....pete
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Did you pull both heads? Never hurts to do both if you have to take one apart.
Rechecked compression and leak down after the work?
No I did not pull both heads. I think I'm going to have the two heads that I have rebuilt and then I will put both heads on. I have a buddy that can rebuild them for me. I did not recheck compression or lperformed a eak down test but will do that and let you know the results.
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New NGK plugs and new OEM wires are always an excellent place to start!
Plugs wires are on order....
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Ok guys it did end up being a burnt exhaust valve. Running way better but still have a miss. Have changed plugs, air and fuel filters and added a can of Seafood to gas tank. I have spark out of all 4 coils, spark plugs wires possibly? Any other thoughts where to look?
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Two things can cause 0 compression in one cylinder:
Burnt exhaust valve: EJ22 engines have tiny exhaust valves and it's very common to find this.
Seized oil rings or even broken ring landing. Also very common, especially in a turbo engine.
Either way, you can test it any way you can think of: it's gotta come out and have some work done to it.
Ya I agree bro, I just thought if I tested it I would have an idea how far I had to go. I already have heads but if its into the rings or piston I'm going to have to order more parts. Im hoping its a valve....I'll let you guys know what I come up with. Thanks for all the input, you guys are great!
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how about broken timing belt? will it run at all with a "dead" miss, or did it just die?
i had a ej22 non turbo do this once. stripped the teeth off the timing belt and was holding ONE cylinder's valves open. cant remember which one but i looked at the belt through the "cam caps" only. The belt was still in tact. My friend came over to help me, and shocked me when he said that the belt wasn't turning. That was many years ago and NOW I KNOW.
If it is the belt, it is NON interferance, line everything up by the tick marks (NOT THE ARROWS!!!!) replace the belt, idlers and waterpump, and fire it up.
Timing belt was the first thing I did check. I originally thought my problem was the belt was a tooth off. The dude I bought the car from told me both cylinders on the drivers side had 0# of compression and the passenger side had 110#. Well after checking I only have one cylinder (#4) with 0# of compression, the other 3 are at 126#. I did however order a new belt, idlers and water pump and will install it when the head comes off. Thanks for your input, I appreciate you helping me try to figure out my issue...
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I'm still thinking burnt valve as well.
The air hose you used for the compression test that threads into the spark plug hole, is that the same hose you used for the leak test?
Reason I ask is the hoses used for compression checks can have a one way valve in them, usually on the end that threads into the cylinder, to let air from the cylinder flow into the hose, but not back out.
If you used that hose for the leak test, no air would have made it into the cylinder.
AAAH....I did use the same hose that I used for the compression test. At the time that is all I had. I now have a cylinder leak back tester and will try it again tomorrow. I have gaskets ordered, already have the head. I'll let you know what I come up with...thanks for the help so far dude...pete
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Re-do the compression test on that cylinder, this time hold the throttle wide open.
I did retest that cylinder and it was still 0#....I tested all the cylinders with the throttle wide open, injector plugs off and spark plugs wired pulled at the coil....
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