aaronxs400
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Posts posted by aaronxs400
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well, the original plan was to lift it when i install the 4wd and manual trans. looks like this wont happen till next summer when we get another car so this one can be down.
so until then, I will just slam it, i miss riding low.
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now what would be the best in the rear? mount up some ea82 rear struts and use coil overs on them (although the lifted guys say ea82 struts are very very stiff, may have to disable torsion tube) or just get some shorter shocks?
on my static dropped nissan 720 truck (5 in the front, 7 in the rear, would nearly lay frame) i removed 1 leaf from the pack and used Air shocks in the back, and I would just let the air out when i was parked, and would lift the rump roast end back up when i was driving around. poor mans air ride i know, but we are a bunch of hicks here in central ohio.
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anyone done this? are their any coil overs from other cars that would fit?
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Nevermind, I found several, it appears that the console side pieces in an auto are way different then a manual.
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First off, I dont have a 4wd car so I cant go out and look, so Im not trying to be a newb lol.
If you were looking at the differential where the driveshaft bolts to, would the rotation of the driveshaft/diff be clockwise when the car is moving forward?
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im gonna see if i can get the diff, front and rear axles, hubs, and front knuckles for $50. guy is a scapper and thats it, i can pry just trade more scrap metal to him as well.
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ok, thanks guys, i thought that they were all the same but I wasnt sure. Maybe if i can pick up this diff for cheap ill be doing good.
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thanks for the quick response.
Are these diffs. heavier then say...an ea81 or ea82 differential? im needing something light weight.
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Do forester's have front and rear differentials?
What differential is in the rear (code number or ratio)?
Anyone have an estimated weight of just the rear differential?
My moms neighbor is getting ready to scrap a forester, and im working on a mini buggy project and if they have front and rear diffs, they would be perfect.
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Ok, so I have a very nice pro tools hydrualic bender, http://www.pro-tools.com/302.htm
It came with dies for 3/4, 1, 1 1/8, and 1 1/4. I can get free 1.25/.090 wall ERW for free.
Would 1.25 tubing look or be to small for some nice tube bumpers?
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im completely use to building something to fit a rule set...we have some strict rules in the dragbike world regarding construction.
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thanks for the link! Can I ask what your specs are for the build? what diffs, transfer case, what are your plans for the suspension, tire size?
I seen a caption of one of your photos, said you were not happy about how low the diff is...how much ground clearance do you expect at the diff?
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miles if tried doing the electric rust removal, it helps to have an older battery charger, some of the newer ones dont seem to send juice unless its hooked up to a battery, you need check and see if the battery charger will "shoot sparks" when you tap the positve and negative clamps together.
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Dont give up man, we need to keep these things on the road!
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you should post up pics of what your building, id like to see a 12 inch lifted legacy
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I completely understand. Heck, i dont even know if this will happen. Itd be awesome though. I would build the cage out of at least 1.5, id just have to get a die for my bender, biggest I have is 1.25. I will use the 1.25 tubing for the a-arms and the subframes for the diffs and a-arm mounts.
My plan is actually to build subframes that house the diffs and have the pivots for the a-arm mounts, and these subframes would bolt to stock mount locations. The front and rear subframes would then be tied together. basically bolting the subaru body on the subframes. Cage would pry only happen if i decided to race, an exocage would be awesome though.
Hopefully this project can happen when I get my new job. Still in the planning stages right now, i need to get some dimensions on factory 28 spline ford cv axles and figure out if i can use an off the shelf axle or need to extend one to get the travel I want.
I will keep you guys updated.
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So, several days ago I had this brilliant idea to build a long travel fully independent suspended Subaru with a divorced transfer case and Ford 8.8 IRS diffs in the front and rear. Then monstaru had to go and ruin my fun by telling me it is being done. Great minds think a like I guess.
So i have a few questions for you. Are you going to run the 8.8 IRS diff on the front as well? Are you using a 31 or 28 spline diff?
Are you still planning on runing the chevy spindles? Do you know how long your axles are going to be, longer then a factory ford axle? Do you what the max angle you can push the axles on the ford diff?
Hopefully you can answer my questions, my plan is very similiar only less track width and smaller tires. I am really shocked to see you can get up to 30 inches of travel out of this set up. I was hoping for 14 inches.
I see your in Ft. Wayne, im about 3 hours from there, maybe I could come check it out sometime.
Thanks for your time!
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not really crazy.been thought about , done with, and built with different components before , and currently being worked on as well.......
but, there is not a class for it in the 1000.
and, if you can't afford to do it right, it can turn into a nightmare really fast.just sayin.cheers, b
Would still like to see some pictures or links to build threads of these cars.
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central Ohio, im an hour from cleveland and an hour from columbus.
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And I do believe I can do it for under 1k...well, maybe slightly more. I already have all the tubing I need to build the aarms and some of the subframes. I get 1.25 .120 wall tubing for free from my father in law. At the Pull-A-Parts i can get spindle with rotor and caliper for $36.19. Rear Diff for $60, Axles for $25. Besides the OEM parts ill need some steering components, misc. steel, probably run Johnny joints at the pivot points, looking at uniballs for the balljoints.
But yes, this will be my first big fab project. But you gotta start somewhere right?
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I can do basic fabrication. this is my 8 second hayabusa, stock engine, chrome moly frame, 360lbs. i did not do the machine work but I was present for every step of the process, learning as much as I could. I spent several weeks at Lincoln's welding school, were I got my certificate in welding 4130. Bought a lincoln percision tig 225. Found a Pro-tools hydraulic bender with 4 dies for $500 on craigslist. Just bought a house several months ago, been busy remodeling and getting the dragbike ready for 2011 season.
I know it wasnt out of curiosity, it was to see if I was just blowing smoke or if I knew what I am getting myself into. I can weld and do basic fab works. I learn as I go. If its not right you rebuild it. This project may never happen, as the dragbike will always be my number 1 focus. If any machine work needs to be done, it would be done my a friend of mine from michigan, he is a master machinist and does alot of fab work on drag cars. So if I decide to do this, I have the resources.
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email sent! i always like looking at fabricaton projects.
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It would probably run in Sportsman Buggy/Car. A catch all class, but you cant win any money. The Baja thing is more of a pipe dream. Monstaru, do you have any links to any of these subarus with similiar setups?
Ebay/Ground Control Coil overs on EA81 Front struts?
in Subaru Retrofitting
Posted
so, should i go ea82 rear coil overs, air shocks on the back (can adjust ride height) or shorter shocks.