mike300z

no

I think you may be right it does seem like a 5-5-5-5 so its not throwing a code?

can you tell me more about this swap?

anyone have a solenoid for sale?

took out the seats today, along with alot of trim and the carpet. Found what I was looking for..... RUST!

My car is throwing code 55 EGR temperature sensor or circuit. I have checked and my egr is not stuck, and seems to be actuating under vacuum. I cleared the code and it came back. Searched and someone else said they replaced their ecu and that fixed the problem. Not sure about that, but that does not seem like a solution for me. Also this car was purchased new from Tennessee.

they want over $12 each called them today!! said list is $10.85 which is what my local dealership wanted, cost for them over $8

got it stuck in the mud

Ivans Imports pointed me in the right direction, Grounding out the coil bracket!!

I did check both sides of the coil. did not try the test light yet, I did check all the fuses, I will re check them again. I thought someone mentioned grounding the coil bracket today, but its deleted now

312,000 plus miles, did this repair a few years ago and have 10,000 plus on that as well as even tire wear. After I fixed it a tree tried to fall on it!

Well I gave it a try, 12v at the coil. Cranked the car over and it didnt sound like the injector was firing, took off the air intake tube and cranked it, no gas on squirting in. so i guess its the distributor. Is there any way to test the distributor? I'm looking to buy a good one if anyone has an extra they could sell me

thanks for the tips, Will try this Wednesday

Let me start this off by telling the story. I was driving my 88 subaru over to my dads garage to replace the rear wheel bearings which were past due, when the car lost most of its power and shut off. I pulled over on the side of the hwy where a friend came out with his buick Rivera and towed me to my dads. Further inspection showed the passenger cam gear broke!!!! Luckily I have a extra motor that is seized up and I took the cam gear off of that, I also had an extra set of new timing belts!! I re timed the motor the first time I was a tooth off and it ran but not right, In between that time and when I had it set right I turned it over with the coil disconnected from the distributor. I noticed the coil sent a spark out of it. Now when I moved the pulley over a tooth and try to start it there is no spark. I changed the coil still no spark, I also switched the distributor to another one I had not sure if its good or not, still no spark. My buddy said it could be the spark ignitor which seems to be located under the coil. can anyone help me here?

So this could be considered more than your average rust repair job. Over the summer I acquired this car from my dad and since replaced the water pump which went out, and began repairing some body rust with rust paint. The other day, after a 5" snow I was driving down the highway in FWD,( has 4WD high and 4WD low) and hit a bump in the road at 65. Blew the driverside strut assembly through the strut tower. After a $70 tow to my dads house I tore off the interior panels to discover to no surprise the passengers side was rusted out equally as bad. The pictures below shows how bad it was. I then went in search of a replacement car, almost bought a turbo wagon but got talked out of it, so now I'm back to fixing this one. Everyone said it couldnt be done, but look at her.

what will that do, turbo blocks have a extra hole tapped in it for knock sensor

thanks, found it

not looking to make a power plant here, but I know that a air to air intrecooler will lower the pressure, also the threaded rod should be able to be adjusted or bent to lower the pressure. I will probably end up using the stock lower 7.7:1 pistons.

Does anyone know how low you can adjust the boost pressure on stock turbo with stock internal wastegate? thinking about running 9:1 pistons in turbo mpfi would like to run maybe 5 lbs of boost.

found sets of pistons on ebay 140 shipped na or turbo. Looking at rebuilding a 86 MPFI EA82T. Alot of Nissan Z31 owners swap na 9:1 pistons into their turbo 3.0L V6. This creates faster spool and better fuel economy. I dont plan on running higher boost than stock and will mount a FMIC to help with detonation, also highest octane available at a gastation. 1986 GL Turbo Wagon

looking for a place to buy a rebuild kit for my factory turbo off 1986 ea82t. The other night I looked up what model turbo we use and found a rebuild kit. Unfortunately i didnt save the site and the turbo has been sold from ebay with the model number I used. So Im sure you guys could help me out I need the model turbo we use or a kit part number. thanks in advance