newgen85brat

Okay, got the Redline kit on. Yeah it could be a little more descriptive but after all it is still kind of scary. Was not sure what to do with the breather hoses that come out of the valve covers. I left the drivers one alone as it goes into the intake and the passenger one I routed up and into the base of the air filter with the little black fitting that came with the kit. It seems to work okay. I started her up and she ran perfect. Adjusted the idle mix screw and found the sweet spot. It has a slight hesitation at first depressing of linkage then runs very nice. I have a new problem though and I will put that in a new thread. As far as Redline versus build it yourself. I liked the one kit. Buying it as a pieces thing is kind of scary since you have people talking of plates not lining up etc. Also there are a lot of people offering chinese knock offs under the weber name. I bought a chinese atv once that was supposed to be just a honda clone........It was not and I will not waste money and take chances on that again. Just cause it says Weber, it may be the chinese version. I did not want to chance it. Thats all i got to say bout that. Thanks for the help and encouragement. It still was kind of scary doing my first one. See my new thread about the engine acting up.

Thanks for the help Loyale. I ordered it last night after your answer. I am looking forward to simplifying my engine bay.

Thank you. It looks much cleaner. All those vacuum lines are scary plus I had problems with it vapor locking when hot so I hope I can just bypass all that. Thanks again, I will order it soon.

Okay, I have looked at posts. Some say mileage goes up, some say down. One says problems with adapter plates, some say they love it. I am looking at Redline complete kit on Ebay for 320.00 complete. The kit looks to be the K730 with electric choke but when I put in my 1985 Brat, it says not compatible. The description and the redline site say K730 does fit it. Is there something I am missing? My Hitachi needs rebuilt but I am so intimidated by it. Too much crap! GD! what say you? Thanks. Here is the Ebay listing. "Subaru 1976-1989 1600/1800 OHV EA71/81 Weber Carb Kit Kit includes Genuine Weber 32/36 - New European Weber"

New problems guys! I am starting to drive the brat all the time. I just got done with a new fuel tank, new pump, filters, new oil pump. I have new plugs, dist cap and rotor. 83 motor in 85 brat. My problem is this. It runs great when you start it up and go. You can run it forever. You can shut it off and get gas and still acts fine. If you go in a store and are gone for about 15 minutes or more, it will start fine but when you go to leave it runs like crap. It idles fine just when you accelerate with or without load it misses bad. It hesitates and will not build speed. If you push it, it will come out of it about 3500 rpms. As soon as you let off, it does it again. I can get it to quit it if I push it through it and load it say in 3rd or 4th gear up a slight hill. Keep on it and it will just not do it again after you idle back down at the next stop sign or whatever. Let it set, cool off and start again, it acts like normal. It works fine for going to work, 30 minutes there, 10 hour day, start it and go home. It is just when it sets for a while. I have not replaced the plug wires yet but that is all. I had a leaking fuel tank that was rusty but I thought the problem was sediment getting stirred up in the fuel after it sloshed around a bit. New tank and filters eliminated that. I suppose the only other thing is the carburetor. I have a kit but am intimidated by over hauling it. Please suggest what you think. thanks

Thanks for the input. I just got my brand new BRAT fuel tank from Subaru Parts Warehouse. Right now you can enter a SPW-331 and get 15% off. So my total bill with shipping was 322.00 bucks. I dont have to mess with POR 15, flushing, or anything. I will keep the old tank just in case I find another BRAT or someone needs it. So if you still need one, they supposedly have two left. Good luck.

Okay, I read GD's post about shopping for fuel tanks for 84 Brats because 85 and newer are EA82 tanks. First time filling my tank all the way and filters plugged then the tank is leaking as well. I need another tank. I would prefer new but they are hard to find. Where can you get one, what should I look for? I know the sending unit must be on the back. Too bad a standard tank wont work. They are only 70.00 bucks. Would it fit and then you can modify the sender? Is the filler tube in the same place? Most tanks are stock photos and I cannot trust them to be correct. Please help and thanks.

Okay, Okay, now I see the date of the first post. I get it, I am challenged!

If it is a bad CV, wouldnt it behave like a bad CV and click while turning? It does not click when turning only when under load and more so when heavy load like climbing. It seems to lessen if the 4x4 is on. With only 108k on it, I doubt it is the tranny. When I bought it, it had a shaft with ripped boots. It came with a new cv in the box so I put it on. Then I assumed it was the other one. The first one I put on the holes for the roll pin did not line up. I had to cut the pin out and it still did not drive in fully when i put the new roll pin in. The other shaft I got from Oreilly's fit great and the pin drove in as easy as the old one came out. Are the pin holes usually a 1/4 off in the passenger side? The shafts only run about 60 bucks. Is there a better quality shaft out there? I only could get rebuilt ones, the new ones were unavailable. Thanks, Walt

There are two types for the EA 81. When I replaced mine last week, I had the parts place order both types and I brought in the old cap. I have an 85 with a 83 motor. Both engines used the same distributor for me. Just make the parts guy look around good on the computer and get them both. Make sure they get both rotors as well but either we got it right the first time or it used the same one because it was the one. One cap uses the two clips but had a vent on it. It was the wrong one. Good luck, go for the parts guy you trust.

Here is my BRAT. I have asked questions from you all for a while. Thanks for your help. She is a 1985. I got it for 800.00. The motor had a broken crank. I put the 83 engine in it, bedlined the bed and lower areas, new seats, new clutch kit, exhaust, front and back mudflaps, silver painted rims with new Delta white letters and more. I got about 2200.00 in it now. It is pretty nice for its age. There are some dents but not bad. The tailgate is the worst. Mostly craigslist and ebay built. I have posted the photos before in another post but thought I would do it again because I got a lot of interest and questions. I still have to switch over the A/C, tighten the shifter and get the bugs out but it is ready for daily driving. I like it so much that I hated to drive it in the dirty gravel. I just took her for her maiden journey with new cv shafts and the problem is that there is a clicking when under load. It seems less when in 4 wheel but still does it. It does not when not pulling. I had originally put one CV shaft on only as it came with the rig in a box but then when it was making the sound I assumed it was the driver's CV. It helped by 75 percent but still has an issue. It is definitely related to the rotation of the axle shafts and maybe on the left side. It has new brakes but I did not pack or check the bearings but it did not seem like a bearing sound. I felt the bearings as I did it but should have kept going and pulled them I know. I fear it is the tranny. The thing has 108,000 original miles. The oil is clean and refilled in the tranny. It was about a pint low (3/8 inch up dipstick) so I added more. I added half a quart and it still seemed low so I added the rest and now it is about 3/8 inch too full. I have not driven it since I added it. Could it have been low and causing some noise? Is it too full for safety now? I figure I will suck out some oil to be safe. Come on guys, you have been here all along, don't let me down now. Oh, yes I did tape the mudflaps and paint them to match the roll bar in the back which is close to the stripe. I also sprayed clearcoat on the paint to freshen the peeling clearcoat and to help and protect it. Don't let anybody tell you it cannot be done because it looks pretty good. I did not have anything to lose. The tires set me back 432.00 bucks. I tried ordering others but they never were in stock. I finally gave up and went to a local guy. It was the only ones he could get. (he thought I was crazy) They look great though. It came with new mud and snows on it but they were 165/13 and looked like crap.

Here is my 85 BRAT. I have been asking questions for help for a while. Thanks everyone. I still have some issues but the list is getting smaller. I finally got to drive it today. Some of my mods are. Xtreme Liner in the box and around the skirt. New trim rings, new and expensive 205-60-13 white letter tires, seats from an Audi, 83 EA81, factory mud flaps, sweet roll bar. I still have the chrome tailgate trim coming and factory front mud flaps courtesy CL. I bought her for 800 with a broke crank. She was abused. Got the motor for 125.00 and the rest from ebay and CL. Roll bar was in her but poorly mounted. No seats but I really do not want them. The paint was bad but I took a chance and repainted the hood with a rattle can over the top of the peeled clearcoat and clear coated all the roof and from the strip up. I thought it would look bad but it looked good. I sold my Polaris Ranger and convinced my wife the BRAT would be it's replacement at 1/4 the price plus have heat, air and more. It has a slight miss in one cylinder. I can hear it at the tail pipe. I put in new plugs, cap and rotor. I am considering swapping the original intake and carb from the 85. I also have not adjusted the valve lash. (I forgot when the engine was out so now I have to do it the hard way). The engine does have a decent amount of tappet sound so I assume the valve lash needs it. The other thing was that there is a ticking that is loud on the drivers side when you accelerate. When you let off, it goes quiet. The passenger side has a new CV shaft. I may just throw one on the drivers side. Any ideas what it could be?

Does anyone have a pair of front "subaru" mudflaps available. I got good rears, just need fronts or at least a left one. My BRAT is almost done, will post pics when I am. Thanks:headbang: Sorry, Gen 2

Where is the fuel pump relay and how do I check it? I bought this from a guy who just wanted to beat it and as far as I can tell did a lot of half-a**ing it. I put the wires back on the coil and the tach does move when I crank it. Should I have someone crank it while I test for power at the pump? Did switching years of motors have anything to do with it? Thanks, baffled in Iowa.

Guys, I am working on a non running brat. I got the replacement engine installed. After sitting for 15 years, it lives! But only until the starting fluid runs out. I am not getting fuel. I put an 83 EA81 in it and was wondering if the fuel pump has to get some sort of signal to turn on. I have yet to test the circuit but was just wondering if the fuel pump is always on (when it demands) or if something in the wiring tells it to turn on at a certain time and the older engine may not be sending the signal. At worst case I will put an new fuel pump in or rewire it or both. Please tell me what you know. thanks.

Thank you, I see how it works now. Thanks for your help as always.

So it does not connect to the frame in any way? It looks like something is missing but I will try to squeeze up higher and see if it looks intact. Thanks.

Just a follow up, this is the "axle" as Subaru Parts Warehouse calls it. It is the one that the trailing arms attach to. Rear suspension is where I found the diagram.

Suspension question. I was just under my 85 brat working on the thing when I looked up and noticed on the front center part of the axle there is a bolt sticking straight up with nothing attached to it. I looks as if it is supposed to have something on it. What is it attached to or supposed to? I looked on Subaru Parts Warehouse and see it looks as if a shock attached to it on the back side but the front side there is simply a description of "arm brat". I will look in my manual but it is pretty vague. It looks as if this is a counter balance or strut or something that would counter the trailing arms. There is no bracket on the bottom of the bed to attach anything to but there are "holes" torn in the bed from someone pulling the seat hardware (I think). I bought it as a project and have just now got to this part. The guy I bought it from just wanted to mud it and I am finding mud and "half assedness" everywhere. No Brats in the area to compare it to. Thanks for your help as always.

Hi again, I am thinking about putting a cyclops light in my 85 BRAT. I got a very good light and grill off ebay. I know I will have to cut a grill to accept the light for my 4 headlight system but I think it can be done. I stumbled on a wiring diagram for hooking the light up but the one thing I worry about is the vacuum line on the light. Is that how the door opens? I thought it was electric but this line looks suspicious. I dont want to add too much hassle if I have to figure out some sort of vacuum and such. I was hoping to just wire the opening circuit to a regular switch then once powered the second switch to turn the light on could function. If not, I will be selling it back on ebay. Thanks again.

Thanks GD, why did two different clutches exist? Did one not work as well then was upgraded or did they always differ? Thanks for your help.

Okay, I am putting in a new clutch on my 85 BRAT, I bought a donor EA81 (322287) should be around an 83 engine. Both motors have the clutch packs still on them. Bought a BRAT clutch kit on line for 40 bucks (good name brand) Wrong size clutch disc, pressure plate and throw out bearing. I got upset thinking it was the guy I bought it from on EBAY so I ordered another from local parts house. Same issue. Why? I see an 8 7/8 inch disc but no pressure plate. What am I doing wrong. The parts guy could only find one set but could get a larger one but the throw out was not the press on bearing that I need. I read other threads and see others had questions but just wondered what it is that I am not seeing or doing right. The parts guy said he thought someone had switched it. Kind of strange both got switched?!.... Five guys work at the O'Reillys but I always get the guy I have to double check everything on? Of course everything needs ordered and it takes 3 business days to get. I eventually just had them order the throw out bearing by the numbers on it. The donor engine clutch was like new and the fingers show very little wear. I may just use the old parts. HELP and Advice please.

I have no intention of paying that. It really does not have many parts worth it. She has been told it was a "super B" and will not listen. I doubt I can even get a photo as angry as she gets when I try to tell her it is not worth that. You add in trying to tell her that there was no such option as a super b and the deal will never get mentioned again. I should mention these are the type of people who have tons of old cars sitting around, most rotted into the ground to the point of nothing. Thanks for the help.

Hey, I found an 86 Brat, original owner, badly rusted, front grill smashed, flat tires, bumper torn off, does not run because of "electrical problem" comes with a spare engine/tranny. The lady that owns it says it was her fathers who has passed. It has been setting for 10 plus years. She is certain it is worth 2000 and is a rare "Super B" because of a sticker on the dash. I tried to get her to take 800 to 1000 but no luck. I have never seen a "Super B" and dont believe one to exist. I think someone just took a sticker from a Dodge Charger and put it on the dash. I dont think she will ever come down and the machine just is not worth it. My Brat has a "B-103" radio station sticker in it. Does that mean I am sitting riches? What do you think? Thanks for the advice.

Hi, I have not posted for a while but just now have gotten around to pulling my BRAT in the shop. I have an 85 that I bought "broken". It only had 108k on it and not too bad of rust. The guy thought it had a broken crank and I think it really does. The crank sits at a pretty severe angle compared to the other pulleys. It did turn over a couple of times when i first got it but quickly froze up. That is when I discovered the crank at an odd angle. Anyway, I found a donor (ea81) motor. I bought it from a guy that pulled it for an airplane years ago. (150.00) He could not remember the year of the vehicle. Now that I have pulled the 85's motor, I can see the "new" motor does not have the sticker for hydraulic valve adjusters it also has a lot of difference in emission stuff. Hydraulic adjustment would be cool but that does not concern me much but what I want to know is what about all the emission stuff. Should I put all the 85 emission stuff on the older motor or just keep it "stock"? I want it to run smooth and dont want to have to plug a bunch of lines. I plan on new gaskets, clutch and the like as I have it out. Any other suggestions? Thanks for any help you can give.