Luvn737s

Yep even replaced the filter and gas cap.

Also no dripping after driving. My guess is something related to pressurized fuel. I looked at the sender and pump gaskets but no obvious staining. Fuel filter and rail attachments are secure. If the tank pressurized when it’s running maybe it leaks along the tank or filler neck but I’m not seeing it.

After driving my 98 Forester a while, a moderately strong smell of gasoline develops. It does not smell when the car is parked overnight and isn’t strong enough to smell when at highway speed. When you come to a light you smell it. Occasionally if the car sits it’s hard to start, as if there is air in the fuel line especially if parked uphill. No CEL. It doesn’t seem related to fuel level. It does seem related to the fuel system being pressurized.

Car ran fine, no CELs no issues other than a drip from the inter connect line on the rack ( poor quality rebuild had no o-rings). Now it turns over and wants to crack but can’t. Fuel pump cycles. Fuel filter replaced. It finally started, but barely kept running above idle and very very rich. I thought I damaged the O2 sensor harness when I dropped the rack to access it, but it actually looks fine. What am I missing? I can’t imagine the timing belt just decided to jump.

Taking out the bottom input shaft is a pain. I remember getting it back in was worse. If I took the whole u-joint and all out I could install it on the bench then reattach the upper one which has better access. I don’t want to mess up the airbag sensors though in doing that. Stripping either pinch bolt is my nightmare. I purposely haven’t taken the pinch bolt all the way out to avoid messing up the alignment of the pinch bolt.

It’s ready to come out except for a stubborn steering shaft pinch bolt. Can I remove the upper one ( above the u-joint) that is both easier to access and more rigid to reinstall or do I risk screwing something up that’s not obvious.

These came off a Legacy

These came off a Legacy

A thank you to the guys who have helped with my older Subes For pickup only. 1 good tire 3 so-so. But hey, they're free. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/wto/5975209940.html My Forester takes 15"

I've never seen one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-58077-Mud-Blaster-Subaru-Brat-R-C-Car-without-Radio-/231532335828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e86712d4

mine was pressed out and back in and reassembled for installation for about $40. I was elated! What took two days to remove was reinstalled in an hour. Peace and quiet!

The grease that came with it was only a preservative shipping grease, I bought a handy little packer since I would be packing bearings on an airplane once a year anyhow. I am very satisfied with the bearing kit from All Wheel Drive Auto. However, everyone says its traditionally the passenger side rear bearing on the old Foresters, but mine was the driver's side. Also, I re-learned to read the instructions when it comes to separating the axle shaft from the hub. Use a puller like it says, don't just whack it. 1000X easier!

Drum brakes or disc? My bad wheel bearing spun free-er than the good one, but you could hear the grinding noise.

I took the whole control arm off. I have to make sure the alignment stays at least close.