Luvn737s

Yep even replaced the filter and gas cap.

Also no dripping after driving. My guess is something related to pressurized fuel. I looked at the sender and pump gaskets but no obvious staining. Fuel filter and rail attachments are secure. If the tank pressurized when it’s running maybe it leaks along the tank or filler neck but I’m not seeing it.

After driving my 98 Forester a while, a moderately strong smell of gasoline develops. It does not smell when the car is parked overnight and isn’t strong enough to smell when at highway speed. When you come to a light you smell it. Occasionally if the car sits it’s hard to start, as if there is air in the fuel line especially if parked uphill. No CEL. It doesn’t seem related to fuel level. It does seem related to the fuel system being pressurized.

Car ran fine, no CELs no issues other than a drip from the inter connect line on the rack ( poor quality rebuild had no o-rings). Now it turns over and wants to crack but can’t. Fuel pump cycles. Fuel filter replaced. It finally started, but barely kept running above idle and very very rich. I thought I damaged the O2 sensor harness when I dropped the rack to access it, but it actually looks fine. What am I missing? I can’t imagine the timing belt just decided to jump.

Taking out the bottom input shaft is a pain. I remember getting it back in was worse. If I took the whole u-joint and all out I could install it on the bench then reattach the upper one which has better access. I don’t want to mess up the airbag sensors though in doing that. Stripping either pinch bolt is my nightmare. I purposely haven’t taken the pinch bolt all the way out to avoid messing up the alignment of the pinch bolt.

It’s ready to come out except for a stubborn steering shaft pinch bolt. Can I remove the upper one ( above the u-joint) that is both easier to access and more rigid to reinstall or do I risk screwing something up that’s not obvious.

These came off a Legacy

These came off a Legacy

A thank you to the guys who have helped with my older Subes For pickup only. 1 good tire 3 so-so. But hey, they're free. https://phoenix.craigslist.org/evl/wto/5975209940.html My Forester takes 15"

I've never seen one of these http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tamiya-58077-Mud-Blaster-Subaru-Brat-R-C-Car-without-Radio-/231532335828?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35e86712d4

mine was pressed out and back in and reassembled for installation for about $40. I was elated! What took two days to remove was reinstalled in an hour. Peace and quiet!

The grease that came with it was only a preservative shipping grease, I bought a handy little packer since I would be packing bearings on an airplane once a year anyhow. I am very satisfied with the bearing kit from All Wheel Drive Auto. However, everyone says its traditionally the passenger side rear bearing on the old Foresters, but mine was the driver's side. Also, I re-learned to read the instructions when it comes to separating the axle shaft from the hub. Use a puller like it says, don't just whack it. 1000X easier!

Drum brakes or disc? My bad wheel bearing spun free-er than the good one, but you could hear the grinding noise.

I took the whole control arm off. I have to make sure the alignment stays at least close.

Any ideas for removing a big suspension bolt that is seized in the rear lower control arm? I've soaked it on PBBlaster overnight and have used an air ratchet and a breaker bar and tried driving it out from the other end. Before I try removing the whole control arm, any garage tricks I should try?

How do I pack such a large bearing?

I had the same problem in a 98 Forester and it ended up being valve shims that were worn causing back pressure into the EGR system and eventually stalling at idle. I don't know if the 96 Leg uses the same system or not

I think you get a new hub because the bearing is a completely different design than the old one. This is the right rear wheel if that matters. Tire noise varies when I corner and didn't seem to change much with tire rotation. I guess I'll see how it looks when I get it off and return it if the bearing's good.

Has anyone used the kit from Alll Wheel Drive Auto from up in Seattle. http://allwheeldriveauto.com/wheel-bearing-kits/ I've got noise and tire wear so I think it's time to replace the bearing and hub on my 98 Forester.

+100 on the Right Stuff. Expensive, but it does the job.

Listen to a John Deere B tractor and you'll know exactly how mine sounds.

I'll check the top of the manifold. I wouldn't be surprised if it wasn't leaking water under the carb and the car was running with water injection (minus the power increase I would expect).

This one is a real mystery. I replaced the HGs with the good ones and everything is tight. New radiator, cap , t-stat. I thought I had a pinhole leak in the heater core and (I know its not recommended) added some Aluminum stop leak which actually did the job. Now the engine runs pretty cool (about 1/3), no water in the oil, no white smoke, no external leaks, no wet floors from the heater core, but I keep losing water. If I drive 50 miles, I put in a pint of coolant. When I drive, I hear the sound of water sloshing around when I go around turns. The heater never really feels hot. But the radiator loses a substantial amount of water and has even gone almost dry leading to a hot engine indication, but a cold radiator and cap. I realize there are only so many places water can go, but without a single drop on the outside and no indication of an internal leak, I am baffled.

Check out Phoenix Craigslist. A guy has almost all the body parts you need and in your color.