Luvn737s

I checked the canon plug by the coil which seems to carry all the engine sensors and it appears to be getting 12 V through the key. The fuses all get 12 V and the ground is good. The radio is getting 12V and the ground is good. There is a gold box under the steering column that has a red flashing light on it. If it is flashing an OBD code it would be code 12. I will look specifically at the fuse 12. Thanks!

The Fusible Links look OK and check OK on the meter. I was hoping to find a big harness bundle that heads to the gauge cluster, but no luck yet.

I just got the car and I don't know if they had it out or not. No fuses were blown, but I don't know about power coming in, I'll check. Also, the radio is dead and the A/C gets no power. Fan blower, interior lights, tach and wipers work. I'm guessing it's something on the engine side of the firewall, but that's only a guess.

I have no operative dash gauges on my 85 GL Wagon. Is there any common connection to all the gauges? The lights in the dash and idiot lights work. R2

I am trying to avoid a 10PM call of, "Dad, the gas door is stuck again. Your credit card is the only one that seems to work!"

Could someone post a picture of the spring for the gas door? I need to try and make a replacement.

Thanks! I mean thanks alot! I've been scratching my head trying to figure out where the big hoses go. I have a busted ASV (corroded around the cap) so I'll plan on the quarter trick for one side. AZ has emissions testing in my area, so even something as old as an 85 has to pass, so maybe I'll leave the other side hooked up. I'd wait for those quarters to cool down before making a call.

Does the outlet on the ASV on the LH head point upward? Same motor as above.

Does anyone know where this clamp attaches to the engine? 1985 EA 82 Carb Auto w/ air

The dealer sold me ones that have 2 holes each. How do I make sure they get the right ones? Does anyone have a part number for the correct gaskets, or does the Fel Pro set work OK?

How about new thermostat and gasket?

Does anyone have a diagram for routing larger diameter hoses in a 85 GL 1.8L SOHC Carb AT? There are 4 plastic cylinders that are connected by these large diameter hoses some of which feed into the ASVs and PCV system.

KEEP 'EM STRAIGHT!! I just finished a complete cleanup of the headbolts, oil and end-seal, replace the headgaskets and torque nicely. Only to find out I swapped the heads to the wrong side! I am so P----ed!! New head gaskets ordered. 1 week delay.

Yeah, all the good advice here was repeated by the machine shop. There was some light pitting after running them across the wire wheel, but I feel pretty confident about reusing the ones with perfect threads. Would just about any metric thread chasers work to clean the case threads before reassembly?

How does gunk get into the bolt hole, other than a crack from the exhaust port?

I pulled the heads on my 85 GL rebuild and the lower head bolts came out covered in a black sooty oily gunk. The upper 2 were clean as a whistle. Ideas? Advice? Sympathy?

Anyone got a set that would fit my 85 GL?

Mine only goes up about 1/4 of the way above the normal position and it does it randomly regardless of OAT or load. But it usually never moves. The cooling fan relay went out and I replaced that. The T-stat is 1 year old and about 6000 miles and was OEM as was rad cap. Is this a burping symptom? (98 Forester 2.5 DOHC)

I've put about 400 miles on my car (98 Forester) after changing the Timing Belt. Every mark was right on before I buttoned it up and when I first started it, it fired off immediately. Now, however I am noticing that cold starts take a few more cranks to fire off and there is some slight hesitation on acceleration until it warms up. Warm starts are fine. Could the ECU have masked a problem with the timing until the engine adapted to the off-time condition, or would any mistakes have shown up immediately? My original problem was a tight exhaust valve in #4 cylinder. That took 122K miles to show up. I wonder if the same problem has come up on another cylinder at 122.4K.

I replaced the O-rings on mine and recharged it with the Autozone gauge/pistol-grip device. I added 1 can and the low side pressure compressor on was about 22 but the high side was alarmingly high. I addded a second 12 oz can and the low came up to 25 and the high dropped to around 60. About a half a can of additional brought the low side up to about 33 or so and the high to about 45. Again the system seems to short cycle at idle. Output air temp is about 42F with ambient temp of 70F What are the consequences of excessive R134a volume and are there other components that sense pressure that could need replacement to stop the short cycling (which occured prior to re-filling as well)?

How much should you be able to move a outer tie rod end before considering replacement? Does removing them always require replacement?

What makes a $300 junkyard 2.2 engine anything more than a core to do a complete overhaul on? Do folks really find these little gems regularly that you can just pull out and plunk in your car and motor happily down the road for another 100K? I mean what got them into the junkyard in the first place? And how well maintained were these 16 year old cars worth maybe $800-$1000 before they were scrapped? I'm just sayin'... I see rebuilders selling the 2.2 as a premium engine, but can folks really expect to get a reliable engine out of most wrecks? We don't have nearly as many Subees in the yards here in AZ as you would have in SEA or DEN, so I'm asking.

Same problem with my wife's 2000 Odyssey. I hate to have her spill her beer on the way home from soccer practice (I keed, I keed!)

I did an external clean of things to make sure no dirt was trapped by the boot, but I didn't fully disassemble everything. Both boots had only torn since the last oil change, about 2000 miles ago. The shudder is only at a couple specific points on the throw of the rack and didn't show up when I had it in the air going from lock to lock with the steering several times to see if the boot bands held. Oh, well I'll keep an eye on it and if I have to take the boots off and go in there I guess I'll have to. The Airbus has the same sort of shudder and it's atributed to needing a re-greasing of the steering rack. Of course the rack on an Airbus is $200,000.

There is a slight shudder as the steering passes a certain point when it's in motion. Are there any clever techniques for greasing the rack in the car?