Moto7man

I figured it out, It seems that some of listing indicated the transmissions were 2wd but the search function results indicated there were actually 4wd transmission for sale. So, the title listings were wrong.

It seems that the wagons were turbo and non turbo but the computer model search indicate non turbo wagons trans and turbo wagons trans are not compatible with the base sedan. Is this just an error with the model search software?

Thanks for the help! As I searched for a 5mt some listings were showing some of the wagon transmissions as not being compatible with a 91 sedan. I guess that was the difference. Did the loyale wagons come as turbos only?

I have a 91 loyale sedan automatic fwd non turbo. I want to convert to 5 MT. Will any 2wd loyale Wagon or 2wd gl Wagon transmission bolt into my loyale sedan? Does it matter if the trans comes out of a turbo wagon?

I just recently bought a set of the new Duralast for my 07 impreza. Within 500 miles I had to replace one because a clamp opened a small hole on the boot. What a pain in the neck. I'm also having vibration under accerleration between 2200 and 2800 rpm. I'll post another update if things improve but I'm not happy with them. Who makes the OEM axles for Subaru? I would like to buy some new oem axles without paying an arm and a leg for them.

My Impreza is an 07 base model sedan with automatic trans. I have torqued the crank pulley to 44nm then 55nm but the crank pulley is still about 2mm to 4mm from being flush with the shaft. I know the woodruff key is lined up otherwise the pulley would not go on at all. What am I doing wrong here? I know that the Subaru SPT manual specifies torquing the bolt to 44nm then retorque to 127NM for a DOHC(see below). Is it the same for SOHC? I'm worried about overtorquing the shaft and elongating the threads which would requiring replacing the shaft. 1) Install the crankshaft pulley. 2) Install the pulley bolt. To lock the crankshaft, use: ST 499977300 CRANKSHAFT PULLEY WRENCH (3) Clean the crankshaft pulley thread using an air jet. (4) Apply engine oil to the crankshaft pulley bolt seat and thread. (5) Tighten the bolts temporarily with tightening torque of 44 N·m (4.5 kgf-m, 33 ft-lb). (6) Tighten the crankshaft pulley bolts. Tightening torque: 127 N·m (13 kgf-m, 94.0 ft-lb)

I'm doing a timing replacement on my 07 and I am reinstalling the harmonic balance. I know you have to line up the "woodruff key" on the balancer but before you install the bolt, when you have it lined up correctly is the harmonic balancer flush with the shaft or does the balancer protude a little or is it supposed to be flush with the shaft before you install the harmonic balance bolt?

Koyo Seiko which merged with Toyota in 2006 which is now JTEKT? Just to be clear, are the Koyo idler pulleys as high quality as subaru oem?

NTN or NSK?

I just bought a Subaru OEM timing belt kit. It includes the cam seals, waterpump and gasket,gear pulley, timing belt, new tensioner assembly, lower coolant hose(with a bend) two drive belts and I also bought upper and lower coolant hoses. It did not include the the two idler pulleys(upper is a single bearing and the lower is a double bearing). Is it advisable to use the double bearing idler pulleys in the top and lower positions? Someone told me that the double bearing idler is much more durable. Who is the oem supplier of these pulleys to subaru? Or do I have to buy them directly from the dealer? $56 each ouch......

I just installed a new oem purge control solenoid and new oem plug wires, it helped the idle a little. However, the idle is still rough. The CEL is not illuminated and I don't have any error codes in "D check mode"(Green test connectors connected and ignition on). I only have "7" long flashes which is the identifying code for 49 state ECM per the FSM. I checked the valve timing and it is correct per the FSM. I put the engine at TDC at the "0" indicator (not the valve timing marks)on the flywheel, and when I removed the distributor cap, the rotor was pointed at the #1 cylinder. What is strange is that the distributor seems to be retarded almost to the end of its adjustment range(counter-clockwise). When I retarded or advanced the distributor the car idled worse or not at all. Does anybody have any suggestions?

No, my cel is not illuminated. If I replace the purge control solenoid, do you think that will resolve the idle problem?

I have looked at the numerous posts including using the modified Toyota solenoids instead of the unreliable oem Subaru solenoids and I have a question. I have a 1991 Loyale,automatic 2wd non turbo with rough idle but runs fine otherwise. While changing another part I broke the purge control solenoid valve (broke the vent probe off). I mistakenly ordered a EGR solenoid valve(they look very similar). I realized I ordered the wrong solenoid when I installed it and the car had the rough idle. Before I damaged the original purge control solenoid the car ran fine. Are these solenoids that different or could I have received a defective solenoid?