Moto7man

The transmission was working well before differential failure.This is a shot of the torque converter.

Components just described above.

I know I have to remove the next section to get access to the pinion nut. I have already removed the external case bolts with the double washers.Do I move the governor, the speedo gear and the oil pump drive shaft,the turbine output shaft by removing the oil pump shaft bushing,the spring pin,the snap ring,the speedometer drive gear,the other snap ring? Then will the 2nd section of the case split away?

The differential was leaking, I suppose from the bottom of the case.

Another shot of the pinion etc.

Collapsed pinion and bearing.

Here is a shot of the bell housing after disassembly.

Removed torque converter, I had already drained ATF from transmission, the front differential was dry. Looks like the pinion bearing disintegrated, then the pinion disintegrated and took a chip out of the ring gear. I marked the component positions with a marker.

3AT transmission is out of car.

Just started to pull the 3AT out to repair the front differential which is hammered. The transmission is fine just the differential is the problem. I already have a 5 speed manual FWD transmission with clutch, flywheel ready to go in if the 3 AT is unrepairable.Photos and updates to follow.

No worries, I figured it out. Thx anyway!

I know how to rotate the grey lever rearward, which pushes the rear connector back, but how do I separate the connectors?

This was a very cool thread. I'm fixing the fan on my loyale right now. I'll try to post some updates.

Just an update, these duralast axles are JUNK. They vibrate,click and fail, not necessarily in that order. I tore both of them out of my impreza this weekend installed my rebuilt oem axles. Don't waste your time and money on this crap. In Autozone's favor they did give me a full refund.

I just changed my timing belt and water pump about 8 months ago. no problem at all. Here is the step by step video that gives the procedure. Very helpful. The only difference is the sooby in the video is a sohc.

I had a lot of play in my 91 Loyale. I replaced the inner and outer tie rods and boots and the tie rod ends. This tightened up the steerings a lot. then I replaced all four struts and the front strut tower mounts, HUGE difference. The car is very tight now. The strut replacement isn't too bad if you know how to use a spring compression tool(which can be very dangerous).

Thanks for the information!

Thanks! So, non turbo 5spd will use the 23(auto)spline axles? If I use a turbo 5spd tran, will the 25 spline axles bolt into my original wheel spindles without a problem?

I feel like a doofus, the tabs aren't welded on, you just compress the rod and the tabs slip off. Thanks for the help!

The tabs are welded on, how do you remove the tabs? Bend them or what? I have new strut mounts with bearings so that is covered.

I'm replacing the front stuts on my 1991 Loyale 2wd non turbo automatic. The new struts are Gabriel and they have a tab that compresses the strut rod. Do I bent the tab forward to release the shaft or what do I do with this tab? My old struts don't have this tab but the rest of the strut is the same.

Ok I think I am in on this conversion. But I am hesitant to crawl under that old sled with just "jack stands" holding it up. Does anyone know an alternative stand or method or a safety backup to protect you if the jack stands fail?

Thanks for the response. Can you run a 4wd trans in FWD and wait until later to install the rear diff, drive shaft, bearing carrier etc?