Jump to content

MaryB

Members
  • Content count

    20
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    1

MaryB last won the day on October 14 2017

MaryB had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

12 Good

About MaryB

  • Rank
    New User
  • Birthday 03/01/1960

Profile Information

  • Location
    calaveras county
  • Vehicles
    Forester
  1. mechanic found an air leak at the hose going in to the air induction system, affecting the MAF. The hose was installed in the wrong configuration, allowing a crack for air to get inside. It's a big 4" tube. To be clear the symptoms started before he replaced the spark plugs a few weeks ago. We really don't know why the problem presented it the way that it did. He fitted the hose correctly and tightened the clamp. That's it. There were no other codes. Test drive was smooth and wonderful. Yay.
  2. He replaced the oil with Napa brand and Wix-made Napa brand oil filter.
  3. and now it is time to mention my husband changed the oil and filter out before our September trip. I will ask what oil and filter was used. If he did not go with synthetic and high quality filter I will suggest doing so today.
  4. thanks for that clarification. When I found that description matching mine (rpms shoot up, p0028 code) I was hopeful someone else diagnosed what I am experiencing. Oh well.
  5. doing additional internet research and came across a 2008 Legacy with the same symptoms: p0028 and rough low idle This guy also suggested rough idle/stuttering is now showing up on 2.5 engines like ours and suggests “dropped” exhaust valve guides
  6. will ask for cylinder inspection this Friday at trusted mechanic's shop, along with ignition component checks. Husband believes this is an ignition component problem too. Timing belt replaced two years ago, at 108K miles. Transmission fluid and radiator is < 1 year old. OEM spark plugs and wires, installed by trusted mechanic, and symptoms disappeared after mechanic installed new plugs and wires. Shifting to N causes the idle to rise a bit and steady's it out to be smooth, and does not stall out. No other codes to report. We've owned this car since August 2015.
  7. confused? We checked these items in September. Engine oil level is full. Transmission oil was replaced about this time last year and is good.
  8. Need some help after our actions did not fix the problem: Outback got an oil change and check before a trip in September, at 135K miles. For the first time I experienced the car not shifting into lower gear when accelerating up a hill on the highway. The RPMs went up, but no downshift. I slowed down and the problem did not return. Two weeks later the car died at idle in drive on an incline and threw code p0028. Car started idling rough at a stop or when in reverse at very low speed. Sometimes it died but restarted fine. We found some moisture in the spark plugs and tried removing. Ended up breaking a wire so we took it to our trusted mechanic for new plugs and wires. After that the car performed well for two weeks until last week on a trip in the foothills. Threw the p0028 code while on a straightaway, but the idle problem did not return like before. We cleared the code and chose to install a new variable valve timing control solenoid. We also cleaned the switch. The code is gone but the car is again idling rough and sometimes dying at idle in drive or reverse. Today we put in a new switch. Husband confirmed switch and solenoid are opening properly. But no change to our rough idle. We drove it around the block, it did not throw a code. What is our next best option?
  9. we did not find a fix yet, but I'm motivated. Got new tires last week that are a lot quieter so the jingling keys problem is now louder than ever. Checked front brake pads today, finally they are ready for replacement. Maybe replacing them will get rid of this awful jingling sound. Pads were definitely NOT worn out last spring.
  10. Driving around town or on the highway we hear a sound like a wear indicator on the rear brakes, definitely not from the engine, and only occurs while the car is in motion. The sound will start up whenever - at any speed, temperature, or length of driving time. The sound always stops if I tap the brakes - but sometimes starts up right after the tap, or not. The brakes are just over a year old and look good. The car was in the body shop for a panel replacement on the left rear side last winter - the noise started afterwards. Just put four new tires on for winter too. Didn't change anything. What should we focus on when inspecting our brakes and trying to fix this annoyingly loud noise? Thank you.
  11. thanks for the advice about the flushing and burping. We probably should have taken care of flushing it awhile back.
  12. Took it for a spin just now. Cannot see any obvious leaks. Will ask our mechanic buddy to do a pressure check tomorrow.
  13. also, thermostat is an original Subaru part and it's already wide open by the time the temp is up a few notches. We're also not seeing any engine codes.
  14. checked for flying critters, cooling fins are clear. When it cools down we will dump old coolant. Should we flush with water? Then we'll add new coolant. Thanks for all the help.
×