sprintman

Using Nitrogen in your tires is a no-brainer. Cooler running therefore last longer etc but the main reason you just don't have go to the damn servo every week or so to pump the tires up. That alone makes it worthwhile.

Give your engine an Auto-Rx clean www.auto-rx.com and a good injector clean, Techron or Redline SI-1 are good. NGK Iridium plugs are excellent as well in my Outback. Good luck...s

I have Nitrogen in our Outback tires and my Mazda turbo. Most I work with have now done the same. Awesome not having to get tthe tires pumped up every few weeks. Any top ups are free for life of the tire. Less wear and more consistent pressure is a bonus. I'll never again have air in tires on any vehicle I own.

If you remove the flywheel to get it machined and that is std procedure it's mandatory to use new Grade #8 bolts. Do not reuse the old ones.

Grab a bottle or two of Auto-Rx. Follow the directions and use dino oil and you can't go wrong. Cleaning the ring-pack and revitalising seals is agood step in reducing consumption. A thicker oil can help too. Good luck..s

Stick with a 'real syn' 75W90

Did you use SI-1 or SI-2?

I agree. Leave o'night on dead level surface and read the backside of dipstick. Owners manual covers this from memory.

My OB is 100% Redlined! 75W90NS in trans (man), D4 ATF in p/s, 75W90 in rear diff. No cold weather problems any when hot just so smooth.

You can do better than Valvoline for your Sube. Do a bit of research on BITOG under Sube and you should get good advice.

2000 Outback, 38psi Nitrogen all round. Specialist tyre mechanic who looks after my vehicles says "perfect" 40/38 Nitrogen front/rear in my Mazda turbo from same guy. As he told me and motoring mags doing tyre tests say "let the tyre manufacturer pick the pressure as the vehicle vendor is purely intereested in ride comfort".

The TSB applied to slave cylinder and hose etc. Not sure if that covers 97 model though.

I had same problem. Free slave cylinder etc under the TSB. They gave me a new clutch free earlier as well. Good luck!

You dd clutch changing down to speed up the internals and then the syncro's have less to do. It's simply laziness not to do it. BUT it does take considerable practice to do it correctly and I know a few will never get it. My wife has been driving for over 20 yrs but gave up in disgust and just in time too as our relationship became 'strained'. Talk to any transmission shop worth their salt and they will be able to explain the benefits, but it will take possibly business away from them so not all will provide honest answers. Using a good gear oil helps too (and I'm not talking about the Sube OEM dino).

Good drivers always dd clutch changing down, poor drivers don't. It is a learned skill and requires practice, but after a while 2nd nature.

You need GL-5 not GL-4. I have 75W90NS in my Outback and shifting is awesome. Even the dealer asked what I'd done when I took it in for a service. I have just purchased MT-90 for my Mazda which requirs GL-4.

Had mine done for free here in Oz 6mths after 3yr warranty expired. Fixed the prblem instantly. free clutch slave cylinder too which is another TSB

I use RL 75W90NS in the trans and 75W90 in the diff. Don't make the mistake of putting 75W90 in the trans as it's too 'slippery' and syncro's crunch. Also use RL D4ATF in the p/s. Good stuff.

And put some decent oil in it after rebuild. NOT dino!

I fitted the NGK Iridiums to Outback and Mazda turbo. 30,000kms on the turbo plugs and like new. More than platiunums or copper but worth every cent IMO.

FWIW. A few add-to-fuel ones work well. Techron, Redline S1-1 (approved by BMW), BG44 (very aggressive), and of course Subaru have the spray stuff that cleans TB etc. Even the non Sube dyno tune place that does mechanical work for me carries the OEM Sube stuff and swears by it.

Get a bottle of Auto-Rx, do the clean and then you should pass with flying colours IMO. Good luck....s

GL5 75W90NS for the trans and 75W90 for the diff. Don't mix them up. Exactly as per the Cobb Tuning website. Works really nice. Going to change to GL4 MT-90 soon in my Mazda turbo trans, just need to do an Auto-Rx clean first

Schaeffers, Amsoil Series 2000 and Redline are about the best. Hard to go past Redline 75W90 in diff and 75W90NS in manual trans, well in an Outback anyway (GL5).

Currently OEM (under warranty) but then anything but FRAM. Do youn want cardboard end caps etc in your Sube??