sprintman

We dont have 87 octane. I think 92 is our lowest. 9 cents a litre difference between them. Oh and never buy fuel with Ethanol in it. Low mileage and other problems too numerous to list

I use 98 octane and nothing else. It actually works out cheaper with the additional mileage.

There a few easy ways to improve this 1) Use quality fuel (I use 98 RON) with a UCL of some kind and a fuel burn catalyst (I use FPC) 2) Put Nitrogen in the tyres and run at say 36 psi 3) Get a proper wheel alignment from a specialist, not a 'tyre dealer' 4) Replace the crap OEM oils in trans, diff and engine with a lower CF oil (I use RL and worth say 6% improvement) 5) Use a/c only when necessary

Theres a much easier way. Get a bottle of Auto-Rx and follow the instructions and if the seals arn't torn or damaged most leaks go away. Theres an RX test underway by a BITOG member Aaron and pictures etc are available at http://www.rms13.com. Also checkout what id did for his compression in 1500 miles!

gbhrps I Redlined my OB trans, diff and p/s. A whole new ballgame now particularly when cold.

The TSB is on this forum somewhere. IT decribes your symptoms exactly and has the list of replacement parts

tHERES A tsb FOR DODGY CLUTCH SLAVE CYLInder and related parts. Dealer just did mine and crunching a thing of the past.

I've had clutch/slave cylinder done free in my 2000 OB (real Japanese one) and vehicle is now perfect. Subaru in Australia win the quality survey every year now. Can't beat these guys for service and value for money

No I think its computer or something. Tapping accelerator makes no difference. Fine afte say 60 seconds running.

I have the symptoms of a sticking accelerator when cold. Don't think it's actually sticking just same symptoms. Change gear at say 3,000RPM and it hangs there or rev's higher even. OK when warmed up a bit. High quality 98 octane fuel, recently Techron in fuel so injectors are clean, 75,000kms ony on odo. Any ideas?

Are the 2.5 engines made or assembled in the US or imported whole from Japan?

Find a new dealer! Mine did clutch and slave cylinder TSB 6mths after warranty expired for free.

Check http://www.auto-rx.net. autotrans get dirty and gummed up over time. Cheap solution but mandatory to do a full flush with something like T-Tec that are everywhere in the US I'm told.

Theres a TSB for this. New slave cylinder and hose/pipe I believe. Had mine done a week ago and fixed same problem as you describe. Got a new style clutch a few weeks earlier too so there are two seperate problems. Sube dealer did both for free even out of warranty. That's why I have a Sube!!

Good post commuter. There are filter flow/pressure drop figures available on BITOG forum. I use PureONE on my other vehicle (Mazda turbo) but I don't think it's a great flowing filter. Can't get Mobil 1 filters here but thats what I'd use if I could. K&N have a good oil filter, can't say the same about their air filter. Users always have high Si numbers (dirt) in oil analysis.

Turbo bearings like a syn (group IV or V, not III) to prevent coking. Get some miles on it with dino before changing. And most importantly use a 3oz maintenance dose of Auto-Rx with the syn. I can't disclose the reasons yet as under secrecy obligation so you'll have to trust me on this one.

Tks i'll look into it...s

Delvac 1 is an excellent shear stable oil many regard as Mobil's finest product. Doug Hillary who posts on BITOG from Airlie Beach Qld Australia has Delvac 1 in his Outback , 12 semi's (trucks), and his Porsche. I ran it in my Outback from day of purchase but currently doing Auto-Rx clean and dino a better choice. D1 is CI-4/SL rated, oils don't come much better than this IMO.

I have OEM from Japan but would definitely use the Amsoil but at a much bigger 'ouch factor' than ever here in Oz. I'm interested in what oils other Subaroo owners use??

Not so much the Pennzoil (an excellent dino now by the way) but the Fram filter. Cardboard end caps and shoddy anti-drainback valves you don't need if you care for your Sube. And yes M1 5/10W30 is a 'thin' 30W (10.0 cSt @100C). Interesting that the 0W30 is slighty higher in viscosity at 10.3 cSt @100C

Thats Transmission medic site but same product. See http://www.auto-rx.com for engine site (there are three in total)

You can change to syn and back to dino as often as you like. That you can't is one of the 10 main fallacies about syn which just won't die off for some reason. Don't change without doing an Auto-Rx clean to remove contaminants in order to get the max benefit of the M1 or whatever. Rember M1 XW30 is formulated at the low end of the 30W range and I'd be looking for something with a little higher viscosity for summer use IMO.

Bigger than the piddly OEM one. It's a joke!!

Remember it's two different oils for trans and diff. Do not use 75W90NS in the diff.

Agreed