shane_h

I know this wasn't the original question, but I have to respectfully disagree with Idasho. Yes, the hitachi doesn't quite live up to the weber, but it's not complete trash. If you spend some time rebuilding/cleaning as well as tuning, you can get it working pretty well. The major downside on the hitachi is that pretty much the only easy tuning you can do is setting idle speed and mix, so if you've got problems at higher speeds, the only option is rejetting. So if you're willing to drop the dough for a weber, there is an improvement, but if you've got more time than money (like most of us), the hitachi will do just fine.

Finally got around to checking the wheel alignment myself. Everything was good except the left rear, which was toed out 1/4" (measured at the rim)! I figured that would eat up a tire up pretty fast. I just hope the bearings aren't shot now from it.

Did the inner tie rod ends yesterday, which was 300x easier than I expected. It's great when there's a job that isn't hampered by layers upon layers of rust! A guy is coming later today to install my JY windshield so I can pass MO state inspections and get new plates.

I tried messing with the linkages this morning still had the same problem. After work, I went back out and started playing with it, and it went right into reverse using the shifter (???). I drove it around without a problem, and it still goes into R. Now I'm just waiting for it to do it again... :-\

Tried that, no dice. Thanks for the quick response!

Alright everyone, I need some help. I've got a 1986 GL (EA82, 5mt, d/r 4wd), and I haven't had reverse lights since I bought it back in January. That's a bit of a pain when you're trying to back up at night, so I finally traced the problem to the switch on the tranny and bought a new one from rockauto (part# LS236, which it lists as being compatible with my car). Today, I installed the switch and eagerly tried to put it in reverse so I could see those lights pop on and feel that satisfaction of fixing something. Well, turns out the shifter wouldn't go into reverse - it was solidly blocked by something, though all five forward gears were fine. I took the switch back out, and then realized that the plunger on it was over twice the length of the old one, meaning that it stuck much further into the transmission. So I assumed this was the problem, put the old one back in, and called rockauto about returning it. Later, after finishing a bit of work that involved timing belts, water pump, coolant flush, and the like, I took it out for the typical test drive. After backing it out of the driveway, I took it about two miles down the road before pulling into a street to turn around. But suddenly I couldn't shift into reverse, much like when I had the new switch in. I managed to swing around thanks to the thing's amazing turning radius and took it back home. I've tried everything I can think of, and it still will not go into reverse. I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas? I have not messed with the linkages as it does not tell me how in my Haynes manual and I have little experience in that area. Does doing so require dropping the trans, or can I do it from underneath? And what else could be blocking it? Thanks in advance!

Ball joints. 'Nuff said. I swear, next time I buy a car, it's coming from out west. I've had enough of this rust.

I'd probably start buying tacos on a daily basis...

Ah, the answer to my confusion! I always manage to forget that there were two different models. Thanks for clearing that up.

You're right, that thing is looking sharp! Any rust underneath?

Speaking of back on topic... I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but my carbed 86 EA82 doesn't even have an o2 sensor (or a hole for one) and my Haynes manual doesn't show that there should be one (just on EA81s and FI models). Should Elmer even have an o2 sensor, or did someone add it later?

Haha yeah, it was a pretty easy fix once I got a new hose, but it was fun getting some strange looks. Though out here, it's not that uncommon to see all kinds cars with stuff billowing out from under their hoods... People were more staring at the huge puddles of coolant I left everywhere I stopped.

I did the unthinkable today - rebuild the Hitachi carb in my 86 gl wagon rather than swapping for a Weber! Now it runs beautifully and purrs at idle, a huge improvement over what it was doing. ... But then I went to pick up pizza <10 miles away, and when I got there, steam was billowing out from under the hood. Turns out I've got a tiny hole in one of the coolant hoses that comes out right under the thermostat housing, and when it's up to temp, the coolant really spurts out. I'll have to fix that once it cools off. :-\

So if you were getting better gas mileage earlier while the o2 sensor was still cut (assuming you didn't do it yourself since then, as it sounds like you didn't), we shouldn't be looking at that as the issue. I would say +1 on the coolant temp sensor, and see where that takes you.

I've got an 86 gl 4x4 as well, and I get about 20-21 when all city driving. I just drove from Ohio to Missouri and got 26 on the highway. I'm doing a carb rebuild now, and hoping that will help, but maybe that's just what it gets. Isn't the timing on a 5mt supposed to be 8 deg btc? I thought 20 was for automatics.