shane_h
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Posts posted by shane_h
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Finally got around to checking the wheel alignment myself. Everything was good except the left rear, which was toed out 1/4" (measured at the rim)!
I figured that would eat up a tire up pretty fast. I just hope the bearings aren't shot now from it. -
Did the inner tie rod ends yesterday, which was 300x easier than I expected. It's great when there's a job that isn't hampered by layers upon layers of rust!
A guy is coming later today to install my JY windshield so I can pass MO state inspections and get new plates.
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I tried messing with the linkages this morning still had the same problem. After work, I went back out and started playing with it, and it went right into reverse using the shifter (???). I drove it around without a problem, and it still goes into R. Now I'm just waiting for it to do it again... :-\
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Tried that, no dice. Thanks for the quick response!
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Alright everyone, I need some help. I've got a 1986 GL (EA82, 5mt, d/r 4wd), and I haven't had reverse lights since I bought it back in January. That's a bit of a pain when you're trying to back up at night, so I finally traced the problem to the switch on the tranny and bought a new one from rockauto (part# LS236, which it lists as being compatible with my car). Today, I installed the switch and eagerly tried to put it in reverse so I could see those lights pop on and feel that satisfaction of fixing something. Well, turns out the shifter wouldn't go into reverse - it was solidly blocked by something, though all five forward gears were fine. I took the switch back out, and then realized that the plunger on it was over twice the length of the old one, meaning that it stuck much further into the transmission. So I assumed this was the problem, put the old one back in, and called rockauto about returning it.
Later, after finishing a bit of work that involved timing belts, water pump, coolant flush, and the like, I took it out for the typical test drive. After backing it out of the driveway, I took it about two miles down the road before pulling into a street to turn around. But suddenly I couldn't shift into reverse, much like when I had the new switch in. I managed to swing around thanks to the thing's amazing turning radius and took it back home. I've tried everything I can think of, and it still will not go into reverse.
I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas? I have not messed with the linkages as it does not tell me how in my Haynes manual and I have little experience in that area. Does doing so require dropping the trans, or can I do it from underneath? And what else could be blocking it? Thanks in advance!
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Ball joints. 'Nuff said.
I swear, next time I buy a car, it's coming from out west. I've had enough of this rust.
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I dunno about you, but if my tacos showed up in the middle of a blizzard in a lifted subaru I'd say ************ YEA!!!
You'd get all my taco business, that's for sure!
I'd probably start buying tacos on a daily basis...
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late carb'd models sold in CALIFORNIA (will say federal or california under hood) had computer controlled carbs that had O2 sensor. look at your underhood placard and see if it is conforms to 1986 california or federal emissions standards
Ah, the answer to my confusion! I always manage to forget that there were two different models. Thanks for clearing that up.
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I working on swapping out my whole drive-train from an auto to 5 speed D/R. I have the donor car stripped and now starting on the good car.
Its a lot of hard work but the 86 wagon I got is in really good shape and worth it.
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/Easycz52/Picture145.jpg
http://i137.photobucket.com/albums/q204/Easycz52/Picture146.jpg
You're right, that thing is looking sharp! Any rust underneath?
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Speaking of back on topic...
I don't know why I didn't think of this before, but my carbed 86 EA82 doesn't even have an o2 sensor (or a hole for one) and my Haynes manual doesn't show that there should be one (just on EA81s and FI models). Should Elmer even have an o2 sensor, or did someone add it later?
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Mine did that too just keep it topped up if you HAVE to drive it.
I loved freaking people out at stop lights from Hillsboro to West Linn
they were like "Omg your car is smoking, your engine is on fire!" and I just shook my head and pulled away, disappearing in a cloud of smoke... I mean steam hahaHaha yeah, it was a pretty easy fix once I got a new hose, but it was fun getting some strange looks. Though out here, it's not that uncommon to see all kinds cars with stuff billowing out from under their hoods...
People were more staring at the huge puddles of coolant I left everywhere I stopped. -
I did the unthinkable today - rebuild the Hitachi carb in my 86 gl wagon rather than swapping for a Weber! Now it runs beautifully and purrs at idle, a huge improvement over what it was doing.
... But then I went to pick up pizza <10 miles away, and when I got there, steam was billowing out from under the hood. Turns out I've got a tiny hole in one of the coolant hoses that comes out right under the thermostat housing, and when it's up to temp, the coolant really spurts out. I'll have to fix that once it cools off. :-\
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for a while , last fall i was getting 28 mpg
my vacuum is still 20-21 so how can there be a problem when the vacuum is all the way up (just nit before it warms up)
So if you were getting better gas mileage earlier while the o2 sensor was still cut (assuming you didn't do it yourself since then, as it sounds like you didn't), we shouldn't be looking at that as the issue.
I would say +1 on the coolant temp sensor, and see where that takes you.
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I've got an 86 gl 4x4 as well, and I get about 20-21 when all city driving. I just drove from Ohio to Missouri and got 26 on the highway. I'm doing a carb rebuild now, and hoping that will help, but maybe that's just what it gets.
Isn't the timing on a 5mt supposed to be 8 deg btc? I thought 20 was for automatics.
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That brat is ridiculous.
And by ridiculous, I mean ridiculously awesome.
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$100! Does it run? Or did it even come with an engine?!
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I was debating about doing it but I drained fluid out of a bad tranny and put new in ya know gear oil is not cheap :-/
I knew it was not going to be pretty.. but in 2 weeks I should have a replacement.
Yikes, those are some ugly looking chunks. I just changed my tranny oil yesterday, and I was half expecting to see something similar. But luckily it was pretty clean!
Hopefully it'll start shifting better - I can still feel it grinding a bit going into third. -
Yeah, I've had several resistors go out on different cars, though never a subaru. It's an easy diagnosis - the fan will not work except on full blast - and a pretty easy fix, since new resistors are usually pretty cheap. If it doesn't work at all, even on full blast, then you're looking at something else, like wiring or the blower itself. When was it last working?
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Then there is this:
brought my scooter home on it, plus multiple runs to home depot, including one trip which included shower stall, shower door, crap ton of MDF and much more!
How did that pull? And have you (or has anyone) pulled a trailer with a GL? I've been looking into whether putting a receiver on mine would be feasible and/or reasonable.
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"That means it's tough" -thump-
I wish my grandma drove a Brat. Haha great find!
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Im already married but I think its probably guys thinking its a better place to meet women than anywhere else on the web.
Deep down, every guy is looking for a woman who knows how to work on a Subaru. Some of us just realize it more than others.
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I don't know if any of you have seen this, but this guy has some pretty nice shots of his 85 GL wagon and its travels:
Anyone know this guy? He and his BLU WGN seem to have gone on some sweet trips!
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Rustproofing ! Keep it in your living room.
I'll second this! That's a amazing brat. If you've got too many cars, get something else! Don't part with this beaty!
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..on an '86 you don't have to do that.."loosen or remove" completely the nuts on the sway bar attached to the swing arm.."just loosen" the nut on top of the ball joint..."remove" the bolt completely holding the bottom of the ball joint..useing a long steel bar, 4-6ft long pry up on the swing arm to lift the ball joint out of the socket...pb blaster will help..
That's a relief. Thanks! It sounds like this procedure is a lot easier on Subarus than it is on other cars. Reason #487 to own a Subie.
"New" Brat - Hitachi Questions
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
I know this wasn't the original question, but I have to respectfully disagree with Idasho. Yes, the hitachi doesn't quite live up to the weber, but it's not complete trash. If you spend some time rebuilding/cleaning as well as tuning, you can get it working pretty well. The major downside on the hitachi is that pretty much the only easy tuning you can do is setting idle speed and mix, so if you've got problems at higher speeds, the only option is rejetting. So if you're willing to drop the dough for a weber, there is an improvement, but if you've got more time than money (like most of us), the hitachi will do just fine.