SLCPUD

lamps are good and I have an old battered Haynes Subaru 1600 & 1800 1980-1989 automotive repair manual. I guess I should try to decipher the wiring schematics.

I have had my 1988 DL Wagon for 27 years. I have done immense amount of mechanical work on it throughout the years. Electrical issues on the other hand are not my forte. In January, the black fusible link evaporated and must have sent a surge throughout the system. It fried the electrical componentry in the distributor. I replaced the distributor and can now drive the car but the hazard and directional lights do not work. The dashboard directional indicators do not work. I checked the fuses and replaced the hazard/turn relay and still no go. What to do?

I have a 1988 Loyale wagon. There are indicator lights on the dashboard to warn me when a door or tailgate is open. My tailgate was slightly hit but it still closed and locked but left a small gap away from the tailgate gasket. I straightened the tailgate to meet up with the gasket but now the dashboard tailgate light is illuminated when the tailgate is closed/latched and turns off when the tailgate is open. Maybe the tailgate switch is damaged but I cannot find it. Could it be something else?

I have a 1988 DL (Loyale) Wagon with EA82 engine. I cannot find the horn relay if there is one. My Haynes manual does not have a wiring schematic for this year vehicle - odd. Wiring schematics in the same manual for other years vehicles indicate no horn relay, so maybe my 1988 does not have one either? Anyway, both my horns do not work and I thought it best to check the horn relay. Fuse is 15 amp and is good. Any clues?

I have a 1988 DL (ie., Loyale) with push button 4wd. For this vehicle, on the passenger side of the engine compartment there is a vacuum hose coming from the manifold going diagonally up to the passenger-side corner on the fire wall. In the corner is a small white vacuum canister mounted on the fire wall. Just make sure that the vacuum hose, via a T-fitting, is connected to this canister. When my 4wd does not work and is not illuminating on the dash - it is always that the hose is not connected properly.

I have a 1988 DL Wagon w/5-speed manual. I have had this vehicle for over 20 years and have rebuilt the engine and other components. I like the vehicle but have had a terrible time with front CV axles. Last month I put on new rotors, inner/outer bearings, seals, ball joints, tie rods, brake pads, cone washers, stabilizer bushings, and CV axles on both sides. Vehicle was aligned. Both CV axles were new and supposedly not re-manufactured (one from Autozone and the other from O'Reilly). But now both sides are clicking horrendously - especially in first gear regardless of going straight or turning. My mechanic friend confirms that the noise is from the axles. I cannot imagine that new CV axles would go bad within 30 days. What am I doing wrong during install?

Two of the responses sort make sense but ultimately if my shaft rotates that means my rear wheels are rotating and engaged. The crux of the issue is whether my car is front-wheel drive or rear-wheel drive when in 2wd; not 4wd. I have always thought that my car was front-wheel drive in 2wd. Reading the responses it appears likely that my car is actually rear-wheel drive in 2wd, then pushing the orange button and the front wheels engage via the transaxle. Having it the other way around does not make sense; however as per the first response, stomping on the accelerator in loose gravel makes my front tires spin when in 2wd. It is still confusing. I have only one set of jack stands so I will have to borrow another set of stands and go from there.

I am embarrassed to even ask this question but am at a loss on how my drive-line should work. I have a 1988 DL 4wd wagon. When not in 4wd my drive-line still rotates. Should it? I thought that when I pushed the orange 4wd button on the shifter that the drive-line would begin rotating thus engaging the rear wheels. Should I expect the drive-line to stop spinning when I am in normal 2wd? Am I wrong?

I rebuilt my engine and clutch about two years. I went online to Ebay and purchased a clutch kit to include pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, pilot bearing, and alignment tool for about $75 which included shipping.

Tell me more about this bushing. Now that my car is quieter I now hear an annoying faint rattle in 3rd and 4th gear. Is this the bushing that I can see from inside the car by pulling up the boot?

Thank you skishop69 for your advice. I too and others thought that the synchro gears may be worn but am happy to report that the transmission was not the culprit after all. It turns out that my drive line was worn and tired and rotating ellliptically thus hitting against my shifter linkage - especially in 5th gear. There are three staked (non-greasable) u-joints with one carrier (hanger) bearing on the drive line. I took the drive line to a drive line specialist. The drive line is original to the car with 285,000 miles. The specialist told me that all three u-joints were too far gone plus the shafts were also too far gone because the yoke ears were badly degraded and worn and would not properly house new replacement u-joints. So I went to a junkyard and found a replacement drive line for $25 and took it to the specialist. He pronounced that the new drive line was in rather good condition with only one of the three original staked u-joints needing replacement. He used an greasable aftermarket u-joint RP 430-10. The part cost $31 and labor to remove the staking and install was $5. The car runs smoother and quieter.

I have a 1988 DL 5-speed with rebuilt engine and new clutch. Recently when I shift into 5th gear a high-pitched metallic screech occurs. It goes into gear but if I just ever so slightly push on the shifter the noise happens. What is it?

I have a 1988 DL with SPFI. I rebuilt EA82 engine two years ago and has good performance. Now, car sputters and stalls as if no fuel. Replaced original fuel pump and filter and it worked fine for a few days then it all happened again. Doesn't start now. Pump appears to work when bypassed. Perhaps some sensor/electrical component is preventing the fuel pump to work improperly?

I have a 1988 EA82 DL. Heat will come out for about 15 seconds, then cool. I had this heating issue before I rebuilt the engine a few months ago. With the engine out I flushed the heater core with both air and water - both sides. Flowed easily at that time. With the engine and heater on, both under-the-hood heater core pipes are hot. The temperature slider on the dashboard works well and appears to make the blend door operate. The Defrost/Heat/Bi-Level dashboard buttons work also. Coolant is full. Fuse good. No interior coolant leaks. Summer thermostat. A/C inoperable but still need compressor in place for belts. The A/C dashboard button when pressed also blows heat for 15 seconds then cool. I am wondering if the heater core is not working properly even though it initially flushed well and currently has hot in/out pipes. Extraneous outside air coming thru ductwork? Is there other vacuum/mechanical linkages that I need to check-out? Advice.

I am re-building my EA82. Any suggestions or recommendations on re-using the inner/outer valve springs and rockers? The springs are barely under minimum specifications. How important is that issue. The rockers have a variety of different sized ridges on their faces. New rocker cost is anywhere from $50 to $80 each so I am leaning towards using my old ones.

I now suspect that the clutch is not fully disengaging. I can still only turn the crank slightly more than 1/4 rotation. I put the battery in and bumped the engine several times. It is fully rotating with no clunking noises so I guess that is good but still cannot turn by hand - only 1/4 turn. I put the car in 5th gear and the turn the crank backwards and forwards and the car moves accordingly. So maybe I will play with the clutch pedal adjustment.

In response to NorthWet, the passenger-side belt disintegrated with its tensioner rotating too freely. The driver-side belt was on its way out with its tensioner completely froze-up. I bought a complete timing belt kit for this repair. In response to Deener, I can only turn the crank a little more than 1/4 turn back and forth. Stops at the same places each time. Turns smoothly. Perhaps having the front-end of the car up on jacks is preventing the starter motor aperture from retracting?

First of all, thank you Markjw and the others for your comments. I just placed the front end on jacks for ease of use and did some minor work underneath. I also drained the oil. The car is a 1988 DL 1.8L non-turbo with manual transmission. The engine designation is EA82. I will take it off the jacks now and see what happens.

In response to Markjw. Yes, the timing belts have not been put on yet. I need to turn the crank to the 3-timing marks in order to start the timing belt replacement procedure. The crank will turn about 1/2 rotation but no more. I was thinking about connecting the battery and just bump the engine as suggested by Swampbrat, but fearful that it may cause some internal damage. The only thing different this time from previous timing belt replacement is that the front of the engine is on jacks. Maybe the angle is binding the starter or something. I am baffled.

Yeah, that is what I thought - positioning the cams should not make a difference because it is a non-interference engine. I have replaced the belts before and fully recognize that it does take some effort and pull but nothing gives this time. I even placed a two-foot pipe on my breaker bar and still no go. Can I turn the crank the opposite way (counter-clockwise)?

Yup, out of gear. Nothing wedged in timing hole.

Replacing belts. Crank will only turn so far. Vehicle was running fine until driver-side timing belt broke. Spark plugs out and using breaker bar but still will not turn a full rotation clockwise. Do I need to arrange the cam sprockets in a certain configuration in order for the crank to fully rotate?