walczyk

Hi everyone, I posted earlier about head bolts, but now that I am splitting the block I am more confused about the block bolts than anything else. The 10mm bolts located around the bores were incredibly tight, much much higher torque than the head bolts (it took probably 150ft lbs to take off the two interior bolts between cylinders #2 and #4), but the book says to use 35 ft lbs. What?? This engine overheated pretty bad a couple of times, so mabe that something to do with it? The two bolts I mentioned were blackened and had white spots on them but I have no idea what the cause of that could be. I've also got a pretty easy question about the numbering system on the block. The numbers in the center of the block read "22121" and I read in the subaru manual that they indicate the size of the main journals/main bearings but give no indication as to what these numbers refer to, although they list standard and oversize diameters and sizes. Further, I noticed "[2|1]" printed on each block half, and the subaru manual does not mention it. Are these similarly the bearing sizes for the connecting rods? Lastly, does anyone have a good approach to splitting the block? I know it won't split easy, but I don't want to hit it in the wrong spot. Thanks again everyone, I'm looking forward to actually helping people on the forums after this ha. p.s. I haven't noticed this mentioned anywhere regarding the cam covers, but the t-45 torx bolts are actually t-45 torx plus! If you use torx initially you'll slightly strip the bolts and a torx plus will fit better but not perfect. If you use torx plus first, there is no play and they don't want to cam out at all.

Thanks for all the great replies, everyone really knows this repair well. Does anyone know the price for OEM head bolts? This is a phase II 2.5 SOHC and has 200k miles before the head gaskets blew, although they had been leaking since we bought it (170k) miles so I don't know if they were ever replaced. I believe the head gaskets are OEM, they are ishino brand and I purchased them from partsgeek which stated they were OEM (they were certainly OEM prices) so I am going to use them. I found OEM piston rings and bearings on subarupartsforyou, but they are rather pricy ($165 for the piston ring set, $149 for main bearing set, and $128 for rod bearing set). Would anyone be able to tell if these piston rings on ebay are OEM? They are listed as made by NPR which is japanese and are around $50, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/00-06-2-5L-Subaru-Legacy-EJ25-SOHC-NPR-Piston-Rings-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3caa87fc28QQitemZ260559076392QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3355wt_819 Other than these parts, I guess I am mostly worried about proper torquing which is why I'd like to get studs but I haven't been able to find anything in my price range (cosworth is $500). Thanks for all the help everyone, I'll be splitting the block once we figure out how to make a tool to take the pins out (any tips here would be appreciated). I will take pictures soon, thanks again! edit: I've just taken oil separator plate and it looks like a ball bearing has been pressed into a hole right next to the service hole plug. Does anyone know what this does? I was speculating maybe it blows out in case of reallllly high pressure. Or maybe it was just a cheap way to plug a hole. I'm just curious cause its funny looking.

Hi everyone, I'm rebuilding an EJ25 (we decided to go the whole nine yards after noticing how gunked our 2000 Legacy's engine was when we were replacing the head gaskets), and I have been trying very hard to choose the best hardware for the job. I know thermal expansion is hard on aluminum heads, and therefore the head bolts so they should be replaced. However, I bought Fel-Pro because those were in stock and now I'm not so sure. Does anyone know hte price for a set of OEM head bolts? I checked out the head studs by cosworth, http://www.cosworthusa.com/store/pc/viewPrd.asp?idproduct=38 but they're $500 ha. I think these studs would absolutely solve the gasket problem but cost wayyy too much. One other thing, I bought an engine gasket set by Ishino something, and its made in japan I think, it cost $230 but I don't know if its OEM. I thought it would be cause it was japanese, but now I am thinking if its worth returning and ordering OEM from subaru. Finally, has anyone here replaced EJ25 bearings and piston rings? Again, OEM is expensive and surprisingly the piston ring set are the most expensive vs the rod bearing set and main bearing set. Any recommendation if i was going to go non-oem? I could buy Cosworth for a slightly reduced price, but I'm not sure, I think if the piston rings are that expensive there msut be something fancy about them.

You seem to be misinformed. The surfaces of new blocks and heads are completely flat (to the naked eye and to touch) or any difference is less than 0.001 inches, and that is the ideal surface to reattach a cylinder head. When you talk about adhering, it seems like you're talking about the gasket falling off because of gravity before you torque it. I can list many other reasons, but you should stop thinking that a surface could be too uniform for a gasket to work properly.

thanks for the links guys; as for my earlier question I was found the subaru part numbers that these condensers replace, they are 73210AE02A and 73210AE05A. One might be an upgraded one? I don't know if they both fit the same.

Hi I was wondering if anyone has purchased a new subaru condenser lately, but the brand by Silla has two models and and I can't see the difference. Their numbers are C0252 and C0253, and at different sites one of them is never always more expensive. I may end up just getting OEM if I can't figure out a difference. Thanks for the help everyone