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2.5LOYALE

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Posts posted by 2.5LOYALE

  1. Thank you for your quick replies. This problem started the moment I put it back together after the clutch job. I should have mentioned this previously, 256000+ miles. After the failed clutch job, I put in a new temp sending unit on the engine and the radiator(and all the previously mentioned work) . When I installed the new rad I had it jacked up in the front, and ran it with out the rad cap. There where bubbles in the fluid when the engine was up to running temp. The oil looks like oil and not a oil/anitfreeze mix but I'm not sure if that's a sign on these engines. When I got the thing I was looking for the timing belt haha. 

    The temp sending units u installed May have something to do with ur temps reading weird possibly a mix match on years or variation in resistance. Did the gauge work normally before you changed the temp units?

     

    On the blue fluid test did u suck air into the chamber with the blue fluid? If u don't make it bubble with combustion gasses from the rad it will never change color...just curious..that is if there is gas in the rad..

     

    With not having a oil coolant mix or overheating I doubt your head gasket is bad...

     

    just my 2 cents

  2. Sounds like a bad gauge or coolant temp sensor that is having an intermittent failure as long as ur sure the head gasket is good!! But u will only know if it's bad or not unless u TEST it. The big kicker in your case is that it jumps as the fans come on making me think a bad ground but ya never know. There are several ways to test a head gasket but I find the blue fluid test for combustion gas in the rad is the easiest and quickest way for the HG. Those gauges are hooked to a coolant temp sensor that is the signal wire for the gauge which is a variable resistor and as the coolant temp rises in the engine resistance in the sensor goes down and give you your reading on your dash gauge. U can do an ohms test on the coolant temp sensor it's self with a basic multimeter. U can also test the gauge by ground it out and see if it's does a full sweep of the gauge scale..

     

    Hope this helps..

     

    E.

  3. Ok so here it goes,


     


    my 92 loyale wagon it currently has a ej20 engine out of a JDM impreza with the ej 2.5L intake manifold and full obd2 readout all working approx 55000 miles on engine freshly installed and resealed by yours truly.      


     


     xn9dnq.jpg  xlwn6t.jpg


                                 


     


     


    I put a 2 inch home made lift on it using front strut spacers from One Eye on the board, it seems to work good.


     


    2ylmo9t.jpgvhgsiw.jpg


     


    In the rear it has a modified strut with the lower eyelet of the strut cut off and a  2 inch piece of stock for the lift and then the eyelet welded back on all using the stock mounting points of the car.


     


    33tj9k6.jpg301k9yd.jpg


     


     


     


    I have contacted scott from sjr to make some pieces for me to get this setup RIGHT and to be able to switch out struts and springs without any modifications to the strut its self.


     


    So here is what i am wanting to do, I want to get the brackets for the strut top hat to the body of the car in the rear from sjr and the one inch front cross-member spacer and the diff drop kit from him also.


     


    fursw.jpg


    everything i would get from him in marked in red except for the strut top hats.


     


     


    So here is my question is the one inch drop on the diff in the rear and the crossmember in the front enought to have have a quatlity ride in the wagon or is it going to give me vibrations and such. my previous setup was a little rough and the axle angle gave it a bad ride. The struts were originals so i know they didn't help the ride quality but i am going for optimum ride quality. I have seen a couple guys with a two inch lift drop the whole running gear 2 inches with blocks but this almost seems to be overkill.


     


    Any imput is appriciated


     


    Thanks,


    Eric


    ( 2.5 Loyale )


     


     


     


  4. Ok so here it goes,

     

    i got my 92 loyale wagon it currently has a ej20 engine out of a JDM impreza with the ej 2.5L intake manifold and full obd2 readout all working.xn9dnq.jpg

     

     

    I put a 2 inch home made lift on it using front strut spacers from One Eye on the board. In the rear it has a modified strut with the lower eyelet of the strut cut off and a  2 inch piece of stock for the lift and then the eyelet welded back on all using the stock mounting points of the car.

     

     

     

    I have contacted scott from sjr to make some pieces for me to get this setup RIGHT and to be able to switch out struts and springs without any modifications.

     

    So here is what i am wanting to do, I want to get the brackets for the strut top hat to the body of the car from sjr

  5. ok so i finally found some time to start my second  loyale build. I think im gonna keep this one stock with the ea82 engine and just make it Clean.

     

    So here is my first loyale that started it all.

    post-30373-0-51073600-1379222119_thumb.jpg

    long story short its where i want it but wanna put the finishing touches

    its a 2.5l ej swap/ obd2 /6 lug hub, etc. The next step is gonna be a 4 inch lift to correct cv axle angles.

    post-30373-0-80002300-1379222211_thumb.jpg

    here is a video before i lifted it on youtube just after the swap was finished.

     

    So 2 years later and another car brings me to this project.

    post-30373-0-27070900-1379222649_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-22358000-1379222705_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-97636600-1379222874_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-61991100-1379222897_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-86737200-1379222921_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-08650500-1379223013_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-79501800-1379223070_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-44990700-1379223100_thumb.jpgpost-30373-0-64268600-1379223319_thumb.jpg

     

    Just getting ready to pull the engine and transmission out i will keep up on the updates the best i can but this car is in great shape and looks good havent found any rust and the inside is clean. :)

  6. I got a 2.5l in my 92 4wd loyale. I am now on my 2nd throw out bearing. My clutch setup is a xt6 pressure plate and disc. With a loyale throw out bearing. This setup does good for about 2 months but then the throw out bearing starts to chirp and the bearing follows its lead.... my clutch is also stiff. I have adjusted the clutch to no avail. I am also getting a lil shutter on clutch engagement in 2 wheel and 4.. I'm am just curious if anybody runs this setup or if I'm overlooking something..

     

    My plan is to run an xt6 throw out bearing. But I'm.not sure its any different? If so where is a good supplier Thanks guys and girls any help its appreciated .

  7. deohw4.jpg

     

    *1992 Subaru Loyale Wagon

     

    -2 inch JAW Lift

    -2002 Subaru 2.5L Ej Engine With Goodies/ Full OBD2 Readout

    -215/70/15 BF GoodWrench Radial T/A's

    -Re-drilled Toyota 6 Lug Rims

    -Disk Brakes All Around

    -D/R Swap

    -Yakima Roof Rack

    -Sweet Early 90's Wind Deflector:headbang:

    *and of course my pitty aubrey:drunk:

    f0zpsk.jpg

  8. when i converted my original S/R push button 4WD to a dual range i connected everything but the two "mystery" wires and had no issues with not having the 2 mystery wires connected, just capped them off and to this day there just doing that.. nothing. if they are for the neutral safety switch wich light does it use? if anything it would just be a complete circut for the switch maybe? hope this helps. i even went the extra step since the 4wd low light is not connected on a stock loyale without the D/R 4wd transmission from the factory. we went through pulled the instrument cluster out tapped into the 4wd low light and ran constant power through the keyed power supply. everything works great even without the 2 mystery wires connected.

     

    hope this helps you some>

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