General chaos

just telll me what plugs i need to plug or unplug. dont change the subject. the answer is simple replace the bulb if its bad.

no you are not understanding what i am saying. if the bulb is dead it is dead. i want to check the codes doing the u check. i cant do a d check or hook up a code reader i dont have one and no one around here has one for this car. so a u check is what i would like to do. every other light on the dash comes on when they key is turned on. oil airbag the door open light. but no check engine light. the two green plugs have something to do with checking the engine systems or codes. i do know that much.

the car will not start. isnt there a plug to plug together to blink the codes. if the light works? or if the ecm is dead will it turn off the light? i have tried plugging in the two black plugs on th eright side of column. and tunr the key on. i get nothing. i tried the two green ones on the left side of the column and turn the key on and i get nothing.

it is either the ecm or a bad wire we are thinking. i retested. and have two power wires now going to the ignition relay. still no power back to the fuel pump. and i cant find my extra fuel pump relay either.

hopefully it didnt eat into the spindle too.

i've had the car a long time. probably since 2005. 2006. it has went out. but i talked to a guy today who siad if the computer finds a failure the light will go out. unless he was reading from a 88 book. i can't remember now. that was only an hour ago though. i have soem other test to perform. i will update as i find out if its just the bulb or the ecm.

possibly bad clutches in the rear drive unit. it may be something else though.

ok. a speed sensor or switch. then it would have nothing to do with my electrical problems. its a long story and isnt finished yet. but i am getting closer. thanks to all who replied.

i have no check engine light that comes on when the key is turned on. possibly a burned out bulb i thought. but then when i looked at the fsm diagrams it shows the check engine light is somehow wired to the tachometer? so is it just my bulb burned out or could there be another problem?

93 subaru legacy. it supposedly has a reed switch in the dash cluster. what is a reed switch and what does it do.

i pulled the fuel pump today because i wasnt getting any power back there. and wanted to check the pump anyway. so why would i not be getting any power back there? oops edit: the pump does work.

ok if both yellows are suppose to have power. one of those yellows comes from the pump relay to the ignition relay. and there is a wire coming from the ignition switch inbetween them. on that yellow wire. so the ignition switch is the one giving power to both units as a second power source to tell them for a few seconds anyway to come on get ready to start. that is why the fuel pump will tuirn on and start up when the key is turned on. i know the switch isnt bad. i have a different switch i plugged in and that didnt start the car either. so all of this leads me to believe the igntion relay is the bad one. if it is not putting out power when crancking.

ok i can see the fuel pump relay finally. i cant barely get up in there. i am removeign the fuse panel and bracket so i can drop it down and unsnap it or how ever its held up in there. my question is. if the fuel pump relay ia bad. would it cut the power off going to the iginition rerlay as wellas the fuel pump and cause this problem? no spark and no fuel?

i have one power in that brown relay. that is all. i did find the ground. i was crossing terminals to activate the fuel pump. that didnt work though. i could only see this relay up in there. it was kind of hanging loose. behind the fuse box is a red relay looking thing. there is a small two wire brown connetor not hooke dot anything and another brown connector with two black plugs with writing on them. is the fuel pump relay a metal can with a plastic base with four spade connectors in it?

that is what i thought the fuel pump relay was. it is a brown connector with a brown relay. it has all those colors of wires going to it. only one of those wires has any power to it.

where is this main ignition realy?

i have power to the fuel pump relay. i couldnt jump it and make the fuel pump kick on. i only crossed one terminal at a time though.

update. i removed the fuel line from the filter and confirmed i am also not getting fuel either. so it has to be soemthign controillign the fuel and the spark. or it is just a coincedence that both are not working. i did have fuel the first day it wouldnt start. i could smell it. also starting fluid has not done anything. except for that attempt to start the engine the other day. but that lasted only a second and the starting fluid had probably already dried up by then anyway.

ok this is becoming stupid or something. it looks like i was checking the wrong side of the fuse for power. the first tiem i was checking it i had no power to one side and only .8 to the other side. i thought that was the power side. i guess not. so now i have power to the fuse. but now no power at all to the eninge harness behind the battery. i had the fender off this weekend to look at the wiring harness up in there. i didnt see any faults. i do have complete power to the fuseable link. and the fender box. my injectors do not have power running to them all the time when the key is on. what are the test procedures from here? what do i check or test next?

someone on another forum is telling me that 12 volts is suppose ot be to the injectors all the time and that is also power to the coil. and they only work if the ecm supplies ground. i think he is wrong. i have aocsiscope. but no leads for it. my analog meter doesnt work for some reason. all i have is this high voltage meter right now. i watched a little you tube stuff tonight and am going to try a few checks. with maybe my check engine lights and codes. s well i am going to try and check the crank sensor pulses.

i never removed the cam gears.

all fuses and power to the fuses is good. the yellow wire going to the coil pack is the one i was thinking about. ok i have thought about this. cam and crank sensors report to the ecm? right? and the ecm delievers power to the ignitier. if it gets good correct signal from both of those sensors. is this right so far? then if the igniter is good it deliver the pules to the cooil pack. and the ecm will also deliver 12 volts via fuse 16 to the yellow wire to the coil pack. is all of that right? so assuming this is all right. i take the sensors one at a time. while cranking the enigne and the sensors hooked up. with my volt meter set to ohms and i check for 3-4 of resistance on each sensor? and they will be pulses. if i get those pulses of that resistance level then the sensors are good. so if the sensors are good and the igniter is passing those same siganals throught it then the ecm should give 12 volt via the yellow wire to the coil pack. if it doesnt send that 12 votls then the ecm is bad? or if the siganls dont get through the igniter then it is bad. is this the correct sounding way to get this checked out? i need to stop screwing around and get this done. i cant get the transmission out of my truck until at least tuesday. so we are now down to my F250 again. so either my other truck needs to be fixed or the subaru. i have to work on one or the other but not both at the same time. that isnt working for me. not that i can get the transmission out either. stripped bolt heads.

is this what the book calls the mpfi control box? also known as ecm? i tested both yellow wires coming out of it. and i am still getting .9 volts from this box.

ok thanks fo rthat i couldnt remember. well i was wrong about the fuse box. that was the out going side i was seeing. once i poped the back off of it. there is a second plastic plate covering the in coming side. so i couldnt see if it was burnt in half or anything. i didnt see any burn marks though. has anyone ever had probelms with the fuse box burning out or not working right? can i run straight battery power to the yellow wire withou tdamageing anything. blowing up the ecm or something?

ok more exploring. i took the fuse box completely out of the car. took the back off and seen where the fuse hs other connectors for it. fuse 16. knowing that this fuse also runs the srs air bag. there was a green or blue wire probably for that. the yellow wire coming from behind the battery has .9 volts. so it is assumed that the green wire may be the power wire. going into that fuse. or the yellow wire is. or both? no way. anyway is it possible for the air bag to be tripped but not deployed and not suppling power to start the car? if so how is it untripped or bypassed. maybe unplugged.