General chaos

my plug is round.

engines can burn that much and you wotn notice it. or maybe it was an arab recycling team draining a little off in the middle of the night. save the desert. steal back our oil.

not much info to go on. but try rotating the tires and see if the vibration changes from one wheel to another wheel. there are other tests you can do to determine loose and or worn suspension and steering parts. turning the steerign wheel back and forth kind of quickly may show a worn tie rod end. or other linkage that may have worn some. i am not sure how a tierod end would make avibration going down the road. oh another thought. check the lug nut tightness on the rims. maybe they came loose on that side after the tires were changed.

the only one i could find close to me was a ac delco reman on a 94. for 35.00 i passed on it. but i am now going to go back and get it. i sure hope the mother flocker works. i am not sure i trust the place. i think i am going to ask about a warranty from them.

ok thanks. i am going to possibly get back to work on it tomorrow. maybe. i have now lost my nerve on this thing as well as other things in life. i may have woke up wrong i dont know.

i dont know. and i will have to check that when the car is going again. that is wherew i thought the problem was probably at. but i havent looked deeply into it yet.

well i checked ou tpower with the yellow wire from the alternator. i had .8 volts. so i hooked up the alternator belt and pu tmost of the car frotn end back together. and the alternator turning still didnt give me power to that wire. i tok the alternator off and had it tested. it is bad again. so that explains no power to the ignition relay. i am unsure ahy i dont have power to the fuel pump relay slot 1. it is suppose ot be a direct connection according to the diagrams. i have stoped work on it until i get another alternator. maybe tomorrow. i do have a second igintiion switch and have been testing with it plugged in and key on too. that has not changed my fuel pump relay power. unless the swithc has to be grounded. it is just hangin under the dash right now. if the junkyarc gets me a good deal i may also grab the fuel pump relay and igntiion relay out fo the junk car too. just so i dont have to make anohter trip over there.

i vote for bad or dirty cable or cable end connections to either the battery or the starter.

all i can say is that a regulator does control the time and amount of charging a alternator does. also if a alternator is bad and sint charging. and the car uses up a batterty charge. the car will die when you do soemthing like hit the brakes or turn on the radio. i cant speak about why your brake light comes on. but the battery light coming on would have to do with low alternator output. i hope this helps that may be all i can help. you can have your alternator checked at the parts stores for free.

this is a generic car repair question so i think i can help. so you had a rodent (rat ) chew up your wiring? ok no problem. you got everything the best you could back in th eright places good. ok the dead battery. that is getting drained by a short in the system. to find a short or to check to see if you have a short this is how to do it. get a test light. even a good parking light bulb and a piece of wire will work. turn off everything in the car radios lights even the hood light. remove the bulb i fit ihas one. then remove the negative battery terminal. put on end of the test light on hte battery post. and the other end of the test light to the negative battery terminal. if you have a short. or draw of power in the system the test light will come on. if you do have a draw of battery power. with the light coming on. you take out one fuse at a time until the light no wlonger lights up. once the light goes out then you have found the circut to chase to find the draw or short it is sometimes called. then all you have to do is fix the short or whatever the problem is. if the diodes in the alternator have went bad. it can also drain the battery in a short period of time. a diode is a one way valve for electricity to flow one way only. if the diode is bad the electricty will drain out of the battery. i had this happen to me. ok well lets us know how that goes. oh how to use a parking light bulb and wire. place the parking light bulb side against the negative battery post. hold the wire to the bottom peg of the light bulb and place the other end of the iwre to the negative battery terminal you took off.

i am going to look at this question as if i am a buyer. i call you and you tell me high miles. so i think to myself ok fine it must be a cheap car i hope. where can i see the car and when. anytime is fine it is at 123 zxy lane kansafornia. i can be there saturday afternoon 4:00. i will look up direction on the internet thanks bye. i pull up late because i took the worng turn or my wife was doing soemthing i told her not to start until we got back. i see the car it is nice and shiny. iyou coem out and i look at the interior. i cant see a spec of dirt or gravel in the carpet. it looks like it has never been driven. i am thinking oh my god. he is either going to aks too much or he will see the greed in my eye of such a nice car. you say i can sell it for scrap for 300.00 i'm going where is my wallet. oh sheep. slow down dont let him know you are so excited. play it off like you are still not sure. kick the tires or something. start talking about something else. i skipped a step here. if the engine is clean and not all oily it makes me want it even more. pay for the car get title and drive off. before he changes his mind. i hope that helped. it is really hard to price a car . the nada and kbb books are dealer averages for what they have sold cars for. there are sections of the online books that are for consumer sales. to help you value your car. one thing to loook at in the dealer section of car pricing guides. is the loan value. how much will a bank loan on the car. if the bank will loan 1750 then that is pretty close to what you want to pay in full for the car. because that is the worth of the car really. or close to it. maybe add 10% for a down payment. and that works the other way too. if the bank says 1750. then ask 1850 or so. bargain down if you have to. you will get very close. high mileage on these cars isnt a super bad thing. ours has 241000. it is dented and dirty. but i wouldnt sell it for anything. not until it lays down and dies completely. then i woul dbuy another one just like it.

i had to assume earlier that is was a dual diode. the yellow and green wires in the diagrams do show that this is probably what i was looking for. i'm unsure what the other side /diode is for.

i will look at that thank you.

it failed a test at another part store. . so i am wondering if the voltage regulator bein bad would cause a complete fail. i dont know why i didnt think of it being called that. because a voltage regulator tells the alternator how much to charge. anyway thanks for the replies. i am goign to call the junkyard tomorrow and see what i can get a used one for.

i'm not doing the parts store thing for sure. edit: wht is the finned thing inside the alt that the plug plugs into? its not a rectifier. what is it called?

ok i was finally able to get the belt on. and tried to start it. i got the same thign. no power coming from the alt on that wire. so i took the alt i had been rebuilding (new diodes new brushes) off and took it to the parts store. the alt failed to pass. i cant believe this alternator keeps falling apart or not working. this has been the problem from the start. i guess i am just going to buy another one. i am done trying to replace parts in this one.

how about the wires going to the battery terminal are they clean and tight?

is this connector F50 brown in the center of the picture? is this the alternator external diode that gives the power to wire lg which goes to the ignition relay and the ecu? it looks like it has more than one diode in this connetor if it is the diode.

update: slot number 1 on the fuel pump relay read .8 of a volt. so it is not getting full power from the ecu. on the igntion relay slot number 2 wire color wire is only getting .2 of a volt. so it is not getting power through the diode from the alternator. the yellow wire on the alternator is not putting out 12 volts either. i am thinking that the alternator may be messed up or it has to be turning to put out voltage on the yellow wire.

93 legacy sedna 2.2 at. the alternator has four wires total going and or coming from it. the main wire comes from the battery and is hot all the time. this is the exciter side of the alternator. i think. then in the plug of the alternator are three other wires. white black and yellow. thw white with key on engine off has power going out of it through the alternator. the black wire goes to the charge light. the yloow wire is suppose to supply power to a diode and then from the diode supply poiwer to the iginition relay. is this yellow wire suppose to also be hot with key on and engine off? and is it suppose ot be a full 12 volts?

it seems this didnt fix it. the next time we used them they didnt work. both relays are good i was able to swap them during the first test.

what a total drag this is getting to be. i need someone here to turn the switch on and off when i am testing so that i can properly read before the relay shut off. after the key is left in the on position. it is hard to reach these relays with the testing probes. i have not been able to figure out if the fuel pump relay is bad or not. i would say it is. but why would it just stop workling all of the sudden at this moment? strange i think. ok power to the coil pack: with the key on i was able to remove the ignition relay and am gettign power to both yellow wires numbers 5 and 6 on the plug. i have no power to anything else in the plug. i attempted tonight to test wires going to the ecu. but that was a mess and quit almost immediatly. i have done some more studying of those fsm diagrams thank you by the way. on page 18 section 6.3. wire color lg. goes from the igntion relay to the ecu. so the ecu isnt giving power to slot number 2 on that plug. this wire lg also intersects with another wire lg going to the mpfi diode. from the diode. wire yellow coems out and goes to alt-2 and a splice on that wire goes to yr which is on page 21 section 6.3 and ends up power to the injectors. slot numbers 5 and 6 on the ignition relay plug do now have power. slot 5 and 6 on that relay also go to the fuel pump relay slot number 2. the fuel pump relay also has slot number 1 that gets its power from fuse 16 and also fuse 16 gives power to the ecu. but the fuel pump relay only has one full power wire. and only a small voltage from the other power wire. i think slot 2 but i tmay be slot 1. i didnt pay complete attention. ok so here is what i am thinking. if wire lg from the igntion relay isnt getting power. then either the alternator or the ecu isnt letting it have power. i would suspect that the alt 2 wire isnt giving poiwer. to either the injectors or the mpfi diode. and then not to the igintion relay. now beofre this all happened. i replaced the brushes in the alternator. and the car was driven at least two days before any problems. my wife says a week but i cnat remember now. so the problem may be in the alternator? and no power out of it? that would explain the no spark. but not the no fuel relay power. i did read elsewhere that the fuel pump relay would only give power for a few seconds if it didnt sence a start command from the ignition switch. so turning the switch on and checking at the same time i didnt get a reading. but only a small one when i did get a reading. and the reading was way low like 1.2 volts. i didnt mees with it toomuch. because the fuel pump wire is burned up on the inside of the pump. so i skipped fuel testing mainly because of that wire. ok i think i now have a better idea that i had 2 hours ago. i think i needed time to not think about it. ok tomorrow check power from alternator 2. now the belt isnt on the alternator. would that kill the power to alt2?

isnt that just a typical screw up. i really thought i posted that i am very sorry. it is a 93 legacy sedan.

ok thank you. i havent been back out there yet to pull the dash apart. i am pritning off the wiring diagrams from the fsm's i cant keep running back and forth to the computer. thank you again.

the book says to either unplug or plug in. the connector to get the light to flash to give out the code 11 12 so on. it depends on which book you read. i know the light is suppose to come on. it is probably burnt out. it worked a few days ago. so the answer is pretty obivous if the ecu doenst turn it off.