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czny
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Posts posted by czny
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spfi tps: Hitachi SERA484-2 1Z1_ , Can't read last digit on my old tps.
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Here's some tips for rebuilding your EA82 optical distributor. I've had the optical pickup crap out causing bucking while accelerating before.
Not fun when your far from home. And embarrassing cause you look like a stick shift NOOB.
First remove 2 screws & dust cover for optical pickup. Then remove center screw. Remove upper retainer then disc being careful not to bend it. Remove locating tabbed disc & spring washer with "D" hole in it.
"T" shaped optical disc retainer is a slip fit on shaft. Might have to use a very small 2 jaw puller if gummed up like mine was. Once "T" retainer is out of the way remove 3 screws retaining optical pickup.
Note orientation of two tabs & alignment of hole in distrib driven gear. Hole must line up with nub on bottom of distrib + LH tab in uppermost pic pointing toward optical pickup.
Note that there is a nub on side of distributor above mounting flanges & it aligns with nub at bottom. Alignment hole is to left of my thumb at right angle to pin punch.
Remove bottom connector from distrib body(2 screws) & pry gently with screwdriver if needed. Remove 3 retaining screws from optical module & lift it out.
Upper distrib shaft brg is retained with 2 screws with captive washers. Remove driven gear spring pin (be careful not to lose it - its odd sized metric) & pull gear off. Press shaft out from bottom.
Had to retap mine to 6-32 thread because old hardware was pretty corroded & stripped the threads in aluminum distrib body. Bottom shaft brg is a bushing so just need a little oil.
Upper brg is Nachi 6200-2NSE9: https://www.ebay.com/itm/6200-2NSE9-NACHI-bearing-6200-2NSE-seals-6200-2RS-bearings-6200-RS-Japan/131652289255?hash=item1ea71682e7:g:MpYAAOSwvt1WR23i
Optical pickup is Standard Motor Products LX-653.
"Exploded" hardware pic
Tabbed drive disc, optical shutter disc only fit on one way so there's slim chance of misalignment. BUT distrib driven gear hole must be aligned with nub & LH tab in upper disc toward optical pickup head.
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5 hours ago, jono said:
thanks. looks like documents I scanned a few years ago - upside down look.
Scanned that from my Haynes book but Brother scanner has hinged lid to it. No choice in book orientation so just rotate it twice with view button at top of Adobe Reader.
Referring to 1st Haynes tps adj page for US spfi:
4 pin tps - A & B conns are off-idle switch. C is wiper & D is V input. This I know from checking mine on spfi body.
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8 minutes ago, moosens said:
Nice going ! This should help several people down the line.
Yeah, when something gets this complicated its easy to get confused as to where to go next. Because I was without wheels this had my full attention.
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For the last 3 weeks I've been battling a cluster eff of symptoms most here would think are related to failing sensors, injection or other. And there were no CEL or codes stored(!!!)
Things replaced or checked in order
Replaced efi fuel pump & filter. Pump had died in mid July.
Blew air thru suction line to clear any junk on fuel tank strainer - nothing
Checked evap cannister & fuel tank purge lines - good. Checked evap sol valve - good.
Replaced plugs, cap & rotor, spark plug wires, coil. Replaced optical sensor in distrib & upper 6200 sealed ball brg. Needed optical sensor as there was corrosion inside distrib. Brg was 'crunchy'
Replaced MAF sensor - twice. Once with unknown used one & once with "reman" Cardone MAF. Waiting for known good genuine Hitachi MAF to arrive. Then will put "Car-do-nay" on shelf as spare
Checked CTS - good.
Pulled apart air cleaner & snorkel under fender to check for obstruction - good
Rebuilt SPFI throttle body & checked TPS for dead spots - good
Checked front cat, rear cat & muffler for obstructions. Replaced rear cat for general principle as it was a 8 yr old aftermarket Magnaflow CA legal cat. Added an O2 sensor bung ahead of new cat for 96 EJ efi conversion.
My 87 4wd GL was bucking-cutting out randomly. Stalling after starting. Losing power at top end in any gear. Got to point of being undriveable. I have no room in driveway right now(of course) to Ej it otherwise I would have. Will have to wait until I have space to work. Car is registered in MT so it is exempt. Yay!
After replacing the rear cat & getting no where I stopped for the night to test drive again in morning. Glad I did. Started with difficulty. stalling a few times until it ran with coaxing from me using throttle pedal - a lot of coaxing. As I was getting in driver's seat, I hit the lower dash panel. Then it died. AHA!!!!!
Pulled down panels. Started digging into the wiring to look for loose connections but found none. Pulled down ECM & swapped in my backup ECM. Replaced ignition & fuel pump relays above ECM mount while I was there(had ordered them a week before just in case). Started engine with no problem & no stalling. IAC behaved normally raising idle to warm up.
As I was lifting ECM back in place the engine died again. Hmmm. Started checking further into wiring. Found that there was corrosion in sensor connector - the translucent white connector with all the shielded sensor wiring. All sensor wires go thru there. Cleaned the contacts.Then repeatedly put conn together & pulled it apart a few times to 'wipe away' the corrosion. Put ECM back in mount bracket.
Went for test drive. Runs better than it has in months. I can recall some hesitation, loss of power & etc when I came back from MT. This must've been it all along.
Anyone else mystified by a long long list of things checked or replaced with no positive result ought to look under the dash at sensor connector(its next to rectangular gray diode to left of ECM) & ECM connector corrosion. Look to the engine bay harness for corrosion too. Any intermittent connection in harness would replicate the symptoms we associate with clogged cats, failing ignition, failing injector, failing MAF, etc.
Enough to drive you nuts.............
Happy hunting!
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1 hour ago, el_freddo said:
First easy place to look is in the Haynes manual. Yes, there it is, I said it. I recall a picture diagram in there for the MPFI TPS. I couldn't tell you if there's a SPFI TPS diagram in there though.
You should find the SPFI TPS pin out in the SPFI conversion document. My copy is in a box somewhere, but I'm sure there will be a digital copy on the forum or a link to it off site.
Cheers
Bennie
MPFI throttle sw from Haynes manual........
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Here's an old thread that has some pinout info:
I seem to remember another thread suggesting a Isuzu i-Mark TPS as a substitute but has to be hard-wired in.
https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=10064896&cc=1176049&jsn=542
Looks like AutoZone carries that sensor in Wells TPS4085:
My Calif 87 GL is 3 plug ECM with 4 pin TPS, just like the jpg I posted in this thread linked here:
Good luck jono!
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Subarule & all,
Compressor & brackets with hardware bubble/peanut packed in a Large USPS flat rate box weighs 26lbs 8 oz. Measured at the post office with their scales.
Everything fits in that large box if disassembled.
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Does anyone here have the dealer installed EA82 A/C? The install with compressor outboard of the alternator?
Some closeup pics might help differentiate between edge discharge port & rear discharge port units.
Cleaned up the MJS compressor in a water based solvent tank - with ports plugged of course. Pulled the plugs, turned it over by hand a few times & its making compression OK. Inverted it & some dark oil(Suniso R12 oil) came out so Subarule may want to drain all oil & refill with fresh mineral oil. It may be cheaper to go back to R12 than convert everything to R134. Or one of the hydrocarbon R12 substitutes.
Turn compressor upside down with discharge port lowest & turn over by hand until all old oil is pushed out. Turn right side up, insert small funnel in suction port & add measured amount of oil, turning over by hand again. 4.00 oz of mineral oil for R12. 28.0 oz of R12.
Read here: https://www.aa1car.com/library/retrofit.htm
and here: https://www.aa1car.com/library/tr497.htm
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Dan, it looks just like the lower used one with brackets attached in your picture.
If you still have that one you could maybe unbolt the rear cover & turn the discharge port to up position where it belongs(?)
If you don't want to void the warranty then tell the rebuilder what orientation the ports must be in.
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Corner marker lights with pigtails, headlight buckets, headlight retainers & hardware, grill, lower headlight valance pieces & valance. Relays plus 4 headlight connectors. Some wire of course. Suppose you could get the complete front harness & do it that way.
Wired mine so LED low beam is outers only, LED high beam is outers & halogen inners, fog lights are halogen inner low beam + fogs with separate switch. Was lucky enough to find an OEM fog light switch at a PNP yard. Headlight switch in turn signal assembly activates relays that are powered directly from fused battery source under hood.
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Here's all the USUAL flat rate envelopes & boxes: https://www.usps.com/ship/priority-mail.htm
There some other sizes behind the counters if these don't work for you. You must ask for them.
If you want the one I have I can clean it up & packed in that same medium flat rate box you see in the above pics. It'll survive with some reinforced tape etc.
If you wish, PM me your address & we'll figure out the money for shipping.
That MJS compressor I have here does have a working clutch(energized it several times) & turns over freely with clutch engaged. Suction & discharge ports were plugged all the time I've had it. May still have some Suniso oil for R12 still in it too.
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On 8/8/2018 at 3:07 PM, Subasaurus said:
large flat rate boxes are 12x12x5 inches, not sure if the EA82 compressor will clear the height, and you can't deform the box as that will cause it to mail regularly, unless you get some new guy up front.
there are other variants of flat rate boxes, but none will help you since they occupy the same amount of cubic space inside, for example they get slimmer but longer for books and posters and such.
Please stop helping my effort to help the OP. .....lol
Here's a pic or two of that MJS compressor in a MEDIUM flat rate box. You can clearly see the model number in first pic.You also see the box isn't distorted in the second pic.Sorry guys & gals. Needed more attachment space here for future post(s).
But it is true - MJS compressor will fit in medium USPS flat rate box. Compressor & all brackets will fit in large flat rate box.
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The comp I have here is a MJS170 6DP, 2 groove pulley. 5 sided(pentagonal) rear discharge cover. Minus the pulse pickup & bracket.
Tested the clutch & its good. Let me know & if not I'll put it up for adoption in the parts section.
Matsushita = Panasonic.
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1 hour ago, Subarule said:
Those things are heavy, I wonder how much shipping would be?
Let's see if I can fit it in a large flat rate USPS Priority box.
I'll have to disassemble the brackets but bubble wrap the A/C compressor.
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On 8/2/2018 at 9:10 PM, Subarule said:
Hey, thanks for that thought and the part numbers.
Here's some more part numbers for future reference:
BTW, found a 86 GL A/C compressor , dual pulley clutch, with bracket & idler pulley in my storage shed. Forgot that that was in there.
Anyone's for price of shipping from my old address in zip 91010. PM me if interested.
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No. I meant a basin wrench like you use to tighten/loosen undersink water lines for a sink faucet like these:
Any Ace or TrueValue hardware stores would have them. Or Homeless Depot, etc. These wrenches allow you to turn nuts at right angles from a distance. Like up underneath a bathroom or kitchen sink. Also handy for twisting a stubborn hose loose deep in a mess of hoses etc. where your hands don't fit.
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If you can borrow or have one, a plumbers basin wrench could give you enough grip & leverage to twist that dipstick loose. Long reach too.
I too can empathize with the arthritis handicap. On generic celebrex &/or Alleve for it myself.
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On 7/30/2018 at 6:09 AM, Espey16 said:
Awesome, thank you for the link
Found this while reading today:
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1 hour ago, Derek aka Derek said:
I wasn't implying that the running behavior was the cause of the pulsating fuel pump. Quite the opposite, i believe the pulsating fuel pump was that cause of my running problems.
I disconnected the bright green connectors and there's no change in the fuel pump operation.
Pretty sure the problem is actually an air sensor being disconnected under the hood. PO has the thing half taken apart, i just want to get it in my garage.
If by air sensor you mean the MAF sensor attached to the air cleaner, then yes it could cause stalling, engine starts-revs-to-2000-then-dies, bucking while driving. My 87 is doing that right now. Waiting on a reman MAF sensor as I've already done or checked everything else. MAF was original - 32 yrs.
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42 minutes ago, Subarule said:
First I have to get my money back for the compressor that doesn't fit. That was guaranteed it would. It's not a straightforward return, since I'm not paying to ship it back or paying a restocking fee, and I'm not at fault. I was verbally told told that it would indeed fit, and the website says "guaranteed to fit". Trying to get hold of a real person at the site is almost impossible. They don't even answer to chat, just too, too busy. Like I'm going to give up...nope.
Companies like that don't like it when the feds are called about consumer complaints, but hey, that's what the FTC is there for: https://www.ftc.gov/
There's a time limit I believe so don't let it pass you by.
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1 hour ago, DaveT said:
I drive one of mine nearly every day. Keeping a close watch on the cooling system condition is #1 thing to do to avoid problems.
Likewise here & my 87 GL sees long stretches of hwys thru current 100+ temps in desert areas. Running a dual brass core radiator & mindful of those pesky faults of an EA82. Such as the small bypass hoses & heater hoses that are often overlooked. Another is thoroughly purging the air out of the system. A must for any liquid cooled engine.
Any of those quick cures like Alumaseal can spell the end of a radiator when tubes get clogged with that junk.
For my rig the temp gauge stays just below center of range most of the time.
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Here's one I made from tool steel yrs ago.
Make handle approx 16" OAL with 3" dia. head, 1" wide handle, 1/2" flat stock with 1.375" hole thru round head of handle. Turn round stock to 2.437 OD x 2.062 ID x .250 depth, drill 1.062 hole thru center then mill 4 'teeth' to .250 width, hair over .750" apart to fit nut. Weld this hub to handle. Weld the 2 pieces together with 'teeth' at approx 20* angle to handle.
Fit over axle stub engaging nut & apply BFH to loosen nut.
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Bucking/stalling/loss of power in SPFI EA82
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted