rallynutdon

Wrench works under the cam cover. But here's another inexpensive option. Same tool as Subaru uses. http://www.specialstage.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41483

Totally different connections for electrical/emissions/etc. Intake manifold is physically no different from 1.8 to 2.2. Can't be starving for air. If it did it would be in the higher RPM range.

Interesting. Motor has knock sensor, but original 1.8 didn't so the knock sensor is not plugged in!

This is a 2.2 motor and 5 speed in a 95 Impreza. The car originally had a 1.8. I put the 2.2 engine in using the 1.8 intake and all 1.8 lines/controls etc. Runs fine otherwise and motor ran great in the car I took it out of (drove it for several years). If you start in first gear and wind it out in all the gears (atleast til you hit 4th) you'd never know anything was wrong. But if you're in 3rd or 4th crusing for example and try to accelerate, it will stumble, not miss from around 2000 to 2500-3000 RPM. Any ideas? TIA. BTW, I did this same conversion (with a 91 Legacy motor) in another 95 but with an automatic and didn't have this issue.

But I don't understand the mechanics of how that prevented the clutch from disengaging completely? There were no signs of any pieces being jammed in anywhere, no marks on the pressure plate, disc or flywheel. Everything looked normal until I took the pressure plate off. One thing, I never did find the piece of metal that was broken off the disc. It must have fallen out the slot in that plate below the housing.

Not a stretched cable. Mileage is not important. Engine, transmission and clutch just put in (all used) and car has been driven about 1000 miles since then with no issues. It will have to come apart to physically see whats wrong. Possibly once I have it home and can take the boot off I may be able to see down inside and see something. But regardless, it will have to come apart. Thanks everybody for all the suggestions. I'll update this when I find out what it is (may not be till this weekend).

Just checked the fluid. It's okay. Finally got the adjusting nuts lose. Adjust it both directions to the extreme and it made no difference. Time for the trailer!

I was thinking about that. But then I would think there'd be very little resistance when you pushed the clutch in.

Car was driven 5 miles this morning before this happened. Yes, with clutch pedal in and car in 1st gear, when you start the engine it moves forward. There's not 1/2 inch play, but IMHO there's enough. I don't have any tools here at work to try to adjust it further. I didn't check fluid level but I'd bet alot of money it's okay. Drove another 8 miles after this happened with no noises. Slipped the clutch really bad in 3rd at one point to get it moving then drove in 3rd the rest of the way (1 mile). Broken clip shouldn't cause this unless tab of throw out bearing is jammed between fork and pressure plate fingers!

95 Impreza, 2.2, 5 speed. Cable and lever move okay. But clutch won't completely disengage. Can't get it into gear while engine is running and clutch pedal is pushed in. Goes into gear fine when engine shut off. Play in lever seems fine with clutch pedal out. What could have bent/broke/shifted? TIA.

Let me add to Keiths statement that I also pulled back the boot and poured in the pistion a small amount of brake fluid before working the piston back and forth. And I bled the system as best as I could before hand.

Bump. No one else has any ideas, or agrees or disagrees with my approach (or has tired anything similiar in the past)?

The piston is sticking, not the pins/sliders. They're fine.

Car was bought from a friend who had recently had new calipers and rotors put on the front. The caliper and rotor looks real new so I believe him. But the one caliper is sticking and I'm sure I can't take it back to the guy that did the job, it's been several months (the car sat for 2 or 3 months before I bought it in October and I had to pull an engine and trans swap so I just started driving it). Any suggestions for what to do? I guess I'll try working the piston back and forth and try pulling the seal back and spraying WD40 or CRC in there. Any other thoughts/ TIA.

Dropped the shell over the engine/trans and it was no big deal. Did it by myself (no one to help me) and it took less than 2 hours from the time I pushed the engine/trans under the shell until I had the front crossmember and trans cross member bolted in place and the engine/trans setting on them and bolted to them.

I'll use the same thing to lift the car that I do to pull the engine, a come along to the rafters of the garage. I've already lifted the back end of a Loyale wagon that way and this shell is stripped at this point; no doors, no windshield, no interior, no trunk lid so no weight.

First some facts (that made a difference). This is an EJ20 WRX motor in a GC chassis. Therefore the crossover pipe made a difference. I could not get it balanced left/right decently because of the Up pipe, turbo and coolant resiviour extra weight on the passengers side. But no big deal. The crossover pipe got hung up on the upper radiator support and it got twisted slightly. No big deal on this shell since it's going to the crusher eventually. If you weren't particularily concerned, it could easily be straightened. Non turbo engine should be a piece of cake. I'm not going to try putting it in the new shell the same way. Since I'm also swapping front crossmember and and suspension, I'm going to try removing the crossmember, lifting the shell up and dropping it on the motor/trans unit. My son wanted to take it out that way and I'll bet that's the way the factory does it! I'll let you know how that goes.

Thanks guys. This is a 5 speed, so nothing to worry about crushing. I've pulled and put back in many trans and engines but never did both at the same time. I'm going to try it and I'll report back.

Anyone ever done it. If you're pulling both (to put from one Impreza to another) is it better/more sensible to pull both together or seperately? TIA.

Today we found there's no oil in the intake prior to the throttle body. There seems to be no difference in the air movement of the filler tube with the cap off comparing it to another motor (2.2) that's in good condition, at idle or at 2-3000 RPM. Even if the was an issue with the oil control rings I would think the other rings would have to be in real bad condition (hence low compression) to cause blowby and significant oil consumption.

I've searched and can't really find anything. I've got 2 Imprezas, a 95 and a 96. The 96 gauge was dead when I bought it (no reading, ever). The 95 seemed to work but shortly after purchase quit. Is the problem almost always in the sending units in the tank? Where should I look first? Thanks. (BTW, I've had 4 other Subarus including another 96, rally car, and have never had any issues other than inaccurate readings, with any of them)

Yea, it's only got 200,000 on the drive train and 260,000 on the chassis. But it was hit last year and it's time to retire the old beast! The good body parts will be available after the first of the year, cheap, real cheap.

It's a manual. And I know what some of the pitfalls can be. But the car is going to the crusher in 4 weeks (actuallly not going in 4 weeks, but stop driving in 4 weeks, then being stripped before the crusher) and I want to get every last bit of mileage out of it. As long as I can gamble on sensibly limping it home 12 miles maximum if it goes, or atleast being able to drive it on the trailer, I'm going to push it to the end just to see what happens

Has anyone ever tried to move their car after one of the front CV joints let go? Will you still be able to drive it? How long did it last after it started clicking with the wheel turned only a slight bit? TIA.

Early model Legacy (89-94) and 1st gen Impreza are all the same when it comes to front axles. My 96 Impreza is just like my 91 Legacy. I've done dozens (Between all the Subarus we've had) and never used any kind of puller. Remove one bolt from the sway bar link, remove the ball joint (preferably the joint going into the upright as opposed to the joint going in to the A arm), remove the nut on the end of the shaft (should do this first while the car is on the ground so you can use a pipe and breaker bar for leverage), push down on the A arm and pull the upright/strut towards you. The axle is splined and should come out of the upright. It may take a little coaxing. Remove the pin holding the shaft on the axle stub coming out of the trans and you should be able to remove the half shaft (when did we start calling them axles instead of half shafts anyway).