rallynutdon

Do the later model motors have the plugs horizontial or at an angle? I have the same problem with my 91 2.2 which has the plugs at an angle and can't figure out where the oil is coming from. The plugs don't go thru the valve/rocker arm cover so there's no seal!

2.3 mile tarmac 13 turn course. SCCA solo I. Wide variety of cars. Free for spectators. We'll be running our Impreza rally car with 2 drivers. On Duryea drive from city park to the Pagoda atop the hill south east of Reading (can't miss the Pagoda, use Mapquest, Duryea drive and Clymer street) Don Kennedy www.RockyRoadRacing.com More info may be found here: http://www.bmr-scca.org/home.html Mods: Move if this is not the appropriate place. Thanks.

I have the same vibration. It's from a not completely round tire (you can see it on the spinning balance machine). I already sent one back and it's replacement was better but still a hassle. Right now I'm living with it till the set wears out then never buying that brand again. It is strange, sometimes it's worse than others.

And to complete THAWAs sentence, the STI is 2.5 l rated at 300 HP.

IMHO and experence, that difference in compression wouldn't have me worried or doing anything if it still runs good. If it drops below 100 I'd start to think about doing something. BTW, how did you take the compression reading? Hot, cold, both dry and after squirting oil in the cylinders, plugs all out, throttle wide open? Also, I've done heads w/o jacking the engine.

If it's hydraulic, you adjust the push rod under the dash. If it's cable, you adjust it at the fork coming out of the transmission.

I have several of different sizes/styles in my parts bin. Let me know if you're interested.

I would ignore this post because it doesn't give me any clue of what the poster is talking about. I don't have time to read every post. If people want the best/most variety of answers they should think about what they're saying. Rant mode off.

I've hardly ever had a problem with reusing the pistions. Clean them up good with croacus cloth (very fine emery paper) and you should be okay. If you need another rear piston I may have a good used you I can sell you cheap.

All you really need to do is disconnect the exhaust, support the trans, remove the radiator, unbolt the motor mounts, hoist the motor and slide it front 3-4 inches. No need to disconnect fuel or electircal lines, etc.

Not sure on a 2.5, but on some motors you can go in from the other side with a long thin drift and catch the edge of the wrist pin and hammer it out.

Just think of it this way. The tools you're buying are an investment. The next time you'll have the tools (and can spend the money for a different tool you'll probably need ).

Bought my 91 Legacy in 96 with 116,000 miles on it. Put KYBs on it within 1 month. Now have 247,000 miles on it and they're still working great!

I have worked on several Legacy motors with more than 150,000 miles and have never replaced a cam seal and have never had one leak. IMHO, I wouldn't bother, it's not that big a deal to do later if need be. Timing belt, yes of course. I've compressed many many tensioners in a vise in less than 2 minutes. Be patient, why waste money. There's nothing in there that doesn't make sense, just be cautious and align the timing marks according to the book.

I might be interested in your 15" alloys when you sell them.

IMHO, It's easier to remove the back of the rear seat and get at it that way. As opposed to climbing in the trunk!

Also tends to happen when the brake fluid is really dirty. When's the last time you changed it?

Sounds exactly like my situation 3 weeks ago with my 91 Legacy. Came and went sporadically, in a straight line or when turning, no pattern. It was the outter CV joint!

Yea, I have neverseize, but usually use grease!

99obw, you have a pm. When you put any suspension parts back together, you should always coat bolts with a thin coat of any cheap grease. It won't last forever but it will make a difference if you go to take it apart again within a couple of years.

I'm in my garage yesterday, temp inside is about 45 degrees and I'm working on my cooling system (91 Legacy, radiator tank had a pin hole). Brought the car up to temp twice and left on high idle (screwdriver jamed in throttle linakge). Fans never turned on. That's normal in that circumstance.

99obw, if you want 2 extra bolts, I have several used ones and will loan or "sell" you 2. I'm in PA, you're in NY. Even snail mail should get them there by the weekend!

I have a 90 wagon with 150,000 on it. Have had it for 3 years. Since I bought it the stock gauge just barely reads above 0 with fresh 20W50 when it's up to temperature. When it's up to temperature at 3500 RPM it barely reads 40. Engine is still running fine (although I suspect there is more pressure than the stock gauge is reading). I wouldn't worry about it.

My experience, 91 Legacy, now with 245,000, bought with 116,000in 1996. Transmission 3 rd gear 2 pieces seperated at 120,000, Replaced with junkjard trans with 70,000 so now trans has 190,000 and is doing fine. Motor develooped a knock at 220,000 so I swapped in a 170,000 motor. Same front and rear bearings, rear half shafts (front's have been changed at least once), same ball joints, KYB struts still good having been put on when I bought it, same PS pump, same alternator, replaced AC compressor last year, same rear, same wiper motor. Not much else replaced.

That's a Subaru for you. When I rebuilt a 2.2 Legacy motor with 160,000, it miked to within .00005 (if I remember correctly) of specs. Subaru does have the engine lubrication down pat.