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PRND3L

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Posts posted by PRND3L

  1. I just got a new Subaru!

     

    Unfortunately my 94 Loyale, without any warning, just decided to die :( . Saddened by this I went out in search for another Subaru as a replacement and found an 03 Impreza WRX.

     

    I am going to miss my Loyale greatly, but Im sure the WRX is going to be a great replacement.

     

    R.I.P 94 Loyale

     

    PRND3L

    post-38292-136027656308_thumb.jpg

  2. I recently upgraded my loyale from the dopey 4 lug pattern to Nissan 6 lug 14's.

     

    In doing this I encounter rubbing of the wheels on the fenders (mostly the fronts) I have gone in and bent them "scientifically" and that greatly reduced rubbing, but has yet to eliminate all of it. Has somebody out there found some adaptable type of fender flare for an issue like such?

     

    Thanks

  3. Well, there's a few different EJ20's. Are you talking about the turbo or the n/a version?

     

    If the turbo version (which I'm assuming is the case), then you need a turbo EA82 crossmember to clear the up-pipe. The rest of the swap is mechanically close, however I would advise using the EJ AWD transmission because the EA82's don't handle a lot of power in FWD very well. Handling gets sketchy, especially in the rain. Using an EJ 5spd also lets you use the better clutches available to EJ's.

     

    The wiring will be different, as the turbo cars have more sensors and solenoids. Get a factory service manual (FSM) for the donor car you're swapping the EJ20 from.

     

    Turbo Version

     

    Not buying the car anymore, it didnt have the correct components to complete the front half of the 4 to 5 lug suspension swap.

  4. So, you know OF the write-up, but chose not to read it, or even look at it?

     

     

    I have nothing to add here :rolleyes:

     

    I actually have your write up on my computer, read it several times. Its a legit question. Mostly because you only see EJ22 and EJ25 being swapped, I would assume that the EJ20 would be the same as the 22 and 25 but i could also be wrong.

     

    Thanks for answering the question.

  5. Yes I know there is a write up on doing the engine swap, so before you go shooting me down on something probably posted; hear me out.

     

    I might be buying an '03 WRX, if I buy the entire car I would be interested in taking the engine, transmission, and several other parts to install on my Loyale.

     

    Does the swap guide include EJ20, and is there a swap guide/reference for the transmission also?

     

    Thanks

  6. It all depends on what kind of quality you want out of the finished product. If you don't mind a wavy job, go ahead and just sand it. If you are looking for no distortion, you obviously go ahead and remove it.

     

    You may also want to check for compatibility with the paint you are going to be using. If you just sand the surface of the chip guard it will be releasing stored gasses, and if those gasses are not compatible with the paint being put over top of it.... bad things will happen. Fisheyes, complete seperation, sloughing, and others. I'd try to figure out what that stuff is made off, or, I'd just get started on removing all of it. You could also try shooting a test pass over some of it.

     

    Having fun yet???? :lol:

     

    Take your time. You'll get there... just think of all the stuff you're learning along the way. Can't say the same for the people that go to Maaco!!:)

     

    Sanded it to a smoothish state, some bumps are kinda visable and i still have its protection. Overall it looks great having paint sprayed on top of it. :banana:

  7. About the flat: The flatter the paint, the worse it is to maintain, and the quicker it absorbs impurities, and looks like crap. Semis are just that. They are semi flat, so, they will still absorb things like oils, UV, and abrasion more quickly.

     

    Pearls are equally tough to shoot. It requires a very very even coating or you end up with depth problems, and not alot of options to fix it other than sanding and re-shooting. The way you lay down metallics, and pearls is very important. It takes discipline. You need to be very measured, and mechanical, laying the coats down the same everywhere. Pretty much like a robot. A change of handspeed, or going back over one area one time too much, and you'll have a spot that will look different. I wouldn't suggest pearls to a beginner, but, on the other hand, there's only one way to no longer be a beginner, and that's doing it. If it's a cheap car, and you just want to play, GO FOR IT. :)

     

    Thats what I figured.

     

    Thanks

  8. for a low cost suggestion - what about Duplicolor's Paint Shop series??? I have read that most people get pretty good results with it - pre-reduced, ready to shoot, which means easy to use.

     

    just a thought - i have no personal experience with this product.

     

    I have considered this. Do you or anybody else reading this thread know where an online color code dictionary type thing is? Cause im looking for 2 already manufacured colors, but I can't find a site with color codes.

  9. Is there a problem with fully priming my car 1 day then coming back to paint it 2 or so weeks later, should paint and prime be done back to back?

     

    I also bought some etching primer and have read several different opinions on the internet about using over or under bondo, is there a definate method of doing that or does it not make a difference?

     

    Thanks,

    Alex

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