briankk

Well that just about exactly answers my question... Thanks.

The plot thickens... rattled off the nut, but the shaft is too small to fit the proper nut. I seem to have 3 Soob axles and one something else... Wonder now if my wheel bearings are some funny size on that axle... All four corners now inspected. Funny axle as mentioned. Front brakes totally shot, I have the new disks, waiting for the pads. Rear brakes OK, but want adjusting. LR wheel bearing shot. Will now see what's involved in that little project. The Chilton manual talks about special pullers needed to do any wheel bearings. Do I need the funny pullers, or will regular pullers adapt? If funny pullers required, should I buy them or take the axle/upright to a shop and just bleed money on them? bk

I already have the proper nut, the local AP store has a Dorman display, the Dorman part number is 615-106. They charged me $8.00 for the nut... bk

My "new" '90 Loyale has a few issues I'm trying deal with before they get bigger.. The brakes need attention, so I've pulled some wheels to have a look. The LF front hub seems stuck. The car is supposed to have 36mm (socket) 24x1.5 metric axle nuts, but my left front nut is a 1 1/4 (socket) size, and stuck on pretty firmly, a 1/2 drive Snap-On breaker bar and 2' of pipe won't budge it, even with my 245 lbs full weight and overnight soaking in Kroil... I suspect that a "similar" American threaded nut has been put on there and torqued to spec, 108 ft/lb. In a while, I'll break out the torch and try heating it, but my question is this. If it comes down to it, can a rattle wrench be used on this thing without harming the tranny or the CV joints? TIA bk

Since the new thermostat seems to have cured the "check engine" light, I'll leave pulling codes for now, dealing with more pressing issues. Thanks for the help Heartless.. bk

O.K. Thanks for the help. I've downloaded an printed out the reference material. Located the test connectors. There is one set of male-female single pin connectors that are green, another that is white. I do not know which is the "Read Memory" and which is the "Test Mode" connector. Manual (Chilton) doesn't say. There is also a black 6 pin female connector, and a white 4 pin connector, which I guess are for scan tools... Spent most of the day at machine shops getting bearings pressed into various bits of my motorcycle, came home and cleaned the Soob engine, and installed a 195 degree thermostat where none had been before. This caused a change in the sound the engine made, and resurrected the temp indicator that I'd thought dead. The check engine light came on, stayed on for about half hour, finally went out, hasn't come on since. I know that the temp indicator is separate from the engine temp sensor, guessing that the ECU is distressed by engine running too cold. Tomorrow, will start pulling codes, if you can tell me which test connector is which... TIA bk

Hi, I'm Brian, a new guy with an old car.. My high mileage '90 Loyale Wagon runs fine, but if I park it for a few minutes and hot start it, the check engine light comes on, usually stays on for abut 3-5 min, goes away. Any ideas? Was thinking maybe weak O2 sensor, dirty EGR valve, some such, but I'm brand new to Soobs, and about clueless. TIA Brian