briankk

My '96 Brighton has a bad engine, the local JY has several 93-95 EJ22 engines, all are attached to auto trans, mine is a 5-spd. Are the auto box engines cranks bored to take a pilot shaft bushings? Are there other compatibility issues I've not even thought of? Em, other than smog and exhaust? Incompatable sensors and other electronic nightmares...?

As I understand it, that is true of the plain, non-turbo heads, I'm asking if there is a simiar situation with the turbo heads, and if so, how are they marked? Also, can the turbo heads and kit be bolted up to a non-turbo block? Does the turbo engine come with forged pistons from the factory? Pretty much how much interchange is their between the turbo and non-turbo engines?

I know that there were three seperate generations of "regular" EA82 heads. The turbo head is another thing altogather, were there seperate generations of turbo heads? If so, how do you tell them apart? Can cracked turbo heads be repaired, or must they be replaced?

For what it's worth, my daily driver is a '90 Loyale with 430k miles on it. Pretty sure is still has the original paint on it.

And so it did.

Ooops! '96 it is. Fat fingers strike again..

So I bought an old '06 Brighton, in really poor condition. Water geting out of it somewhere, so I set out find out where, pulled the rad and checked it, seems ok, pulled off the passenger side timing belt cover to have a look while I was in there, timing belt wants replacing, so pulled the serpintine belt and crank pully bolt, but the crank pully won't come loose. Called various FLAPS who don't have a puller. Checked You Tube, found that the thing is supposed to fall off in your hand with the bolt removed, not a tapered shaft (?). None of my pullers work. Now what? everything behind the pully is plastic, prying not an option. Not real eager to fill it full of water and drive it off to pick-n-pull.. bk

First one I went and looked at, the guy wanted 2k for it, I wouldn't have taken it as a gift.. Years under a large tree, in the rain, mushrooms growing from the floormat, mold from the seat.. Couldn't see inside from outside 'cause condensation on inside of glass. I wouldnt have paid rental on a trailer to tow it away, the guy thought 2k was reasonable. Is the engine worth that or something? bk

Well, since "SVX" is disallowed as a search term, guess I'll just have to ask. Is a '94 SVX a good car, a bad car, a dream car, rust prone, a maintiance nightmare, a complete spaceship, or what? A keeper, or something to move on from? I know nothing, and can prove it.. bk

I seem to have just bought a '9x Legacy Brighton (EJ22, 5 spd). Looks pretty much like a "normal" Legacy, but has no tach. What other strangeness might be found in this thing?

Just back from looking at the National Seal bearing set as described above. Looks good but for plastic spacers on the cones. I intend to use a MIL spec polyglycol bearing grease, am worried about that plastic with the synthetic grease. The bearing I took out have no plastic bits...

I had a look at http://www.ultimates...guide-4wd-rear/ , have done nearly the same, but I can't locate the wheel bearings I want, which are the ones pictured in the above post, they are NTN 4T-CR-0685, a 3-piece set. The various suppliers all list the one-piece cartridge replacement, "Lubed and sealed for life", which is what I'm trying to get away from, I want to pack 'em in my own grease.. Anybody know of a bearing supplier that has these?

Mine has 428k, the bearings howl and there is both brass and steel in the tranny oil. I reckon (SWAG) that something in there is breaking up. (Mine's a 5-spd manny tran)

Normally shift up at 4k, have done 5k couple of times, but it doesn't seem to pull much beyond 5k, so I don't bother. Now I guess I'm gonna have to try 6k to to see if it makes a difference..

Yep. AND, the turbo axle is larger diameter stub, so "new" front axles required. So, will require new, larger wheel bearings?

Recently read a topic concerning AmsOil, seems it used to be a PAO synthetic, but now has changed to a "proprietary formula", i.e., is not a PAO synthetic anymore, but rather has been degraded to less expensive formulation. FWIW...

Do all Turbo EA82's have 3.70 gearing at both ends? The non-turbo ones have 3.90 ratios, the ones I've seen anyway. I just bought a 5 speed at the junkyard, from a turbo motor car, my thinking is that the turbos engine was such a POS that the tranny would have less miles on than most. I have a couple of 3.90 diffs, and car reach out and get a 3.70, that's not an issue, but it would be nice to be able to tell from some marking on the case just exactly what the diff ratio is.. Anybody?

Good link, thanks..

The 5MT in my '90 Loyale is slowly destroying itself, needs changing out. Is this best done by running up on ramps a pulling the box from underneath, or by pulling the engine/trans package out the front of the car with an engine crane??

BTW, WoodsWagon, thanks for that link, I've bookmarked it, I may just pay the higher price for a quicker solution, it's only 50 or so miles from me..

Been looking in P&P for xmissions at about $130.. I really don't need a lower first gear, to get where I go. What I do need is an LSD for the rear, and, if possible for the front too, if not too expensive. I have traction problems in snow and ice, last winter got high-centered in snow..

Guess I'm gonna need a transmission manual for this thing. Nearest Loyale is 110 miles from here, but I think there is a GL not to far away..

Why would I do this, whats the advantage of having a transfer case insead of a button?

I should have known that, recently went through a discussion regarding EJ swap.. I do recall reading somewhere that the internal bits of the later trans could be swapped into the old Loyale box, will have to hunt for it.

When I bought my old Soob a couple or three years ago, It ran well in spite of having over 300k miles on ti, but it made a noise in the drivetrain I couldn't isolate and fix. I replaced the front half shafts and wheel bearings, no change, the noise seemed to come from the rear end, but people in the back couldn't decide what it was, either. The brakes were terrible, so I replaced the front calipers, disks and pads, but most of the problem seemed to be with weak rear drums. Since the noise seemed to be in the rear end, I tried to pull one of the plugs to check for metal in the oil, or chunks instead of oil, but I couldn't get either plug loose even with breaker bar and 1/2 drive pneumatic wrench. I decided to convert the RE to disk brakes, bought the whole setup from a local junkyard. Then I found that I couldn't remove the rear halfshafs, either side, after driving out the pins, pulling, banging, etc, no joy. Went back to the junkyard and bought a "new" 3.90 diff, came home and dropped the driveshaft and removed the entire rear suspension and differential, and even out from under, couldn't get the splines loose. Put the "new" diff and bolted up, installed the GL10 suspension and half shafts, bled the brakes and went for a ride. Brakes totally cured, but the noise remained. Now I've replaced the entire drivetrain but for the driveshaft and the engine/trans package. Car came with brand new driveshaft when I bought it,engine been near perfect from the get-go, so noise (follows car speed, not RPM) must be from trannny. Car now has 428 thousand miles on it, noise getting louder as it went along, last weekend the noise changed notes and got louder, I stopped along the road and checked the trans, metal specs in the oil... Now I need a new tranny, and old Loyales are pretty thin on the ground hereabouts, so I have a question: Is the Legacy 5-spd usable here? I'm hoping I could remove the tailhouseing and center diff, replace with Loyale pushbutton clutch.. Anybody know if this can be done? TIA