briankk

+ another one...

I've had exactly this problem for some time. I've replaced everything in the cooling system but the heater core, i.e., all the hoses the radiator (brand new) the cap, new from Soob, the t-stat, (twice), the coolant several times, and block seal... Nothing worked until I accidentally found a plastic elbow in the smog system totally blocked with goop, which I dug out with a pocket knife. The ell is between the driver side PCV hose and the crankcase, has a small third leg off to the base of the EFI throat. since cleaning that thing out, oil loss/leakage has near to stopped and the engine has quit using water, I don't have to top off the rad every morning and it runs nice and cool. temp ges about half way up in the morning, returns to normal level for the rest of the day. Car makes boiling noises in the coolant tank when I shut down, but it always has. This doesn't make much sense to me, but what the hell, it works. 428 thousand miles and counting...

Replaced everything aft of the driveshaft ((but the 3.9 final) with bits from a GL10, to get the disk brakes. Found out that the swaybar can't be mounted after the axles are bolted up to the struts...

A while ago, I downloaded and read the paper on fitting an EJ22 where the EA18 used to be, thought I'd check for parts. Adapter plate reccomended is from mroseusa.com, I called him up to see if he was still doing this, got an automated reply said he ""isn't taking calls now". WTF? Any body know if the adapter is still available? mroseusa still doing business? TIA

Thanks all for the tips, I've bookmarked that video..

What's involved in getting the LSD off a 3.70 diff and on to a 3.90?

Umm.. an ECU on an '83 Brat? I'd have thought that thing would be carb'd. What engine in there?

Usually, a high altitude kit leans out the fuel mixture with increasing altitude. Not knowing what else to do about that, I'd be inclined to replace the high altitude sensor, and see if the engine feels better.

I'd expect if it were brakes the noise would be localized at the affected corner, not dead under the center of the car. Anyway, the rotors all look good and the steering didn't pull, or in anyway influence the noise.

Car has fairly new front axles. I wonder if they were replaced in an attempt to fix the noise.. I suspect something in the tranny or driveshaft. I was wondering if anybody else had had similar experience.

Thanks for the tip, I bookmarked the link just in case. The real issue with aftermarket radios in the Loyale (and perhaps others I don't know about) is that the heater box intrudes into the room for the radio, and so a "short" radio (from faceplate to back) must be used. The radio/media player I've chosen will definatly fit the room provided, but since all the ads show it equipped with a sleeve, I can't tell it it has the requsite screw holes for the bracket, and I'm not cool with spending $100 to find out..

Did a test drive in a used '99 Outback wagon, with 5 spd manual. Engine seemed OK (no oil pressure gage?), but when put in gear and driven off, most awful grinding, screeching noise from under car, perhaps tranny or driveshaft? Noise followed car speed, didn't change with upshift, continued on even with engine off and coasting, unrelated to clutch. While this going on, tranny not vibrating.. I seem to recall that auto tranny model had the viscous coupling center diff built into the rear of the tranny, and the manual set up used some planitary gear set up? Would failure of the center diff make a lot of noise but allow the car to keep going? Any ideas out there? TIA

I spend a lot of time in my '90 Loyale, though I'd upgrade the radio, by installing a Pioneer MVX-X560BT, which will in fact fit in the space available. BUT all the vendors, new and used, provide the thing with a sleeve mount, and as we know, Subaru uses something a bit different. screw on brackets. None of the lot know if this unit has the screw holes for the Soob bracket, and I can't locate a picture of the thing without the sleeve obscuring any holes that might be in the side.. I have an older, full sized Pioneer head unit that the brackets will screw right on, but of course it's about 2- inches too long to fit the available room, so.. Anybody ever fitted a Pioneer radio to a Loyale? How'd you do it? TIA bk

I agree entirely that it's likely a tire issue, but one thing that bothered me is that on 6-8 inches of snow, the car will high-center and the tires become useless, since they can no longer reach the road. Had to dig the Loyale back down to the ground twice yesterday... Lead me to wonder if I just let the car idle for a while, will the exhaust melt me back to the ground?;-) Wish I could get some wheels to mount my 14" Nokians on.. bk

Dude has $500+ set of Michelin Defenders, which are street tires, for sure. I anticipated this might be a problem last year, tried to round up a set of 14" tires I could fit my studded Nokean snow tires to, was simply unable to find a matched 14" set of rims that would fit the Soob. bk

Friday night, we got about 6-8 inches of sugar-like powder in these parts, and I learned the the capability of the Soob to deal with this is WAY overstated. I have an uphill dirt and gravel driveway, maybe 50-75 yards long, I drove down and went about my business without incident, but when I came home, the Soob (90 Loyale, 410k miles) wouldn't go up the driveway. The 4WD is actually 2WD, one wheel in front would drive, one in the rear. The car would climb up about 4 of its own lengths, they slide back down, pretty much without regard for anything I did.. My kid came over with his Toyota PU, drove up and down several times, no problem. My boss came over in her Lexus SUV, up and down three or four times and left. I tried again with the Soob, got the same results as before.. Decided to park it at the bottom of the driveway for the night, but when driven off the plowed road, the car high-centered on 6-8 inches of sugar, we had to dig it back down to where the wheels would touch the road, then dig down to the dirt in front of the wheels before the car would move. Following day, had business in a town 20-30 miles away, came home 'bout 2 pm, was able to get up the driveway and unload groceries, when I tried to move the car it slid off to one side of the driveway and spun its wheels.. We dug it a track to its parking place, where it now sits, waiting for a thaw. I got on the net and looked into this. It seems that Toyota has a computer-controlled traction assist, it drives both axles, if the computer senses a wheel speeding up, it applies the brake on that wheel alone, which puts the power to the other one instead. It seems to be a electronic rip of the Mercedes 4-trac system of the '80s which was mechanical when it first came out.. Anyhow, it's quite apparent that the Toyota/Lexus so superior to anything with a transfer case as to make it obsolete. So.. Did Subaru ever build such a traction control, or are they still using the old stuff? bk (snowed in)

Yes, I read that, and various other links regarding the PCV system, and all those links go to pictures archived somewhere in perdition where I can't see them. Bummer. Current plan. Got to P'nP, hunt up Loyale with blue plastic widget in PCV system, capture and install the whole wretched mess, hope quantum waves co-operate.. bk

So to cure intermittantly blowing huge clouds of smoke from my 400+k '90 Loyale, it was sugguested that I obtain and install Soob PCV kit part #11813AA010. Finally got down to my nearby Soob dealer (53 miles) only to learn that the kit is NLA and no replacement. Which means I'll have to bag it from Pick 'n Pull, I guess. Sigh. Sometimes I wish this wasn't such a great car, I could go get one of thos 2.2 thingys whose name I can never recall.. bk

Ya know, that all makes sence. Going for that EFI kit, and thanks for your latest help.. brian

So, I'm going down the road pretty much flat out in 4th or 5th, engine WFO under full load at 3500 to 4k, when suddenly the engine goes flat and a huge oil cloud bursts fourth from the exhaust. "Oh spoob", I'm thinking, "holed a piston, or sucked a valve" In just that amount of time, it quits smoking and the engine regains power, and I'm off. This happens once about every 2 months, sucks a big glop of oil, spits it out, keeps on going. WTF? Anybody ever heard of this? How can the engine suddenly suck in a bunch of oil all in a lump, then not do it again for a couple of months?

Best choice might be a 28/36 DCD. Over carburation will hurt you a lot more than under... bk

Tried to change out the rear half-shafts on my '90 Loyale. Old half shafts won't come off the stub axles on the diff housing, even though pins removed. Any ideas? bk

Spent Sunday putting the original bits and pieces back in, since I can't remove them. Back to junkyard, GL-10 has an open 3.70 axle. Guess I'm stuck 'till I can get to Pick'nPull to get a proper rear end lump. But the old GL-10 rear struts are a huge improvement over what was there, and cost 10 bucks all in. Went back today and got the fronts for another 20 bucks.. Can't escape feeling I'm wearing my cleanest dirty shirt.. bk

A while ago, I mentioned the possibility of powering my '90 Loyale with a junkyard EA82 Turbo motor, and said that amongst the possible problem was a design fault in the turbo oiling. I was pretty promptly corrected for saying that, and since I couldn't remember where I knew it from, didn't pursue the matter. Just now, reading the Amsoil site, I found this" "Subaru has published Service Bulletin # 02-103-07 that identifies a factory design related problem with premature clogging of the oil mesh screen located inside the oiling system that supplies the turbo charger on all model turbo charged cars. A clogged screen will result in oil starvation and turbo charger failure. Subaru has since published Service Bulletin #02-110-10R indicating that 2010 MY and prior turbocharged engines continue to require oil and filter change intervals of 3,750 miles (6,000 km) or 3 3/4 months, while all 2011 MY turbocharged engines have returned to the original requirement of 7,500 miles (12,000 km) or 7 1/2 months, and they are required to use synthetic oil. Due to the issues outlined in this document, AMSOIL recommends following Subaru drain interval recommendations." FWIW bk

Got the right rear totally disconnected, but for the half shaft, which has become one with the stub axle. Why yes, now that you mention it, I did remember to drive the roll pin out, for all the good it did. Been at with crowbars, hammers, bigger hammers, none work. Tomorrow, back to the junkyard to check GL rear end ratio, mine is 3.90. If it's compatible I just drop the whole wretched mess and replace the whole rear end assembly with the GL parts. Otherwise, going to put the old rear end back together, without the roll pins or the new brakes, etc, and drive it around for whatever time it takes me to find a 3.90 rear end that has half shafts that are actually removable from the stub axle.. Wonder what the deal is? Rust, I guess. Should this thing be assembled with spline lube, or anti-seize, or what? and FWIW, the axles I'm trying to remove seem to be in excellent condition, no torn boots, clunking sounds, or other visible distress bk