Tmb9862

And now I can PM (I hope)

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I cant figure out how to PM you. The option is not where it would normally be when I click on your name. Perhaps because of my low post count. If you could tell me how or PM me I would appreciate it.

If it will fit a 96 legacy 2.2l 5spd I'd really appreciate it. If it won't and you can give me an idea where to look for one I'd appreciate that as well.

Could you give me an idea where to look, I'd defiantly pick one up at that price.

Again, thanks to everyone for the replies. I'm going to look around a bit try to keep the car going a while longer. Are those hundred dollar timing kits really any good? I don't want something that's going to leave me stuck in the middle of nowhere in two years.

Glen Cove, NY This car needs over $1,000 worth of work right now. Timing belts - $250 O2 Sensor - $100 Differential - $500 Clutch & Flywheel turning - $250 Front Cat (possibly) - $275 Motor mounts - $100 Paint, primer, bondo, etc for rust repair - $100 That's doing the work myself. The pipe on the rear cat also cracked almost all the way around and I brazed it back together. The muffler flange rotted off completely and I made a new flange from sheet metal and welded it on. Who knows how long those will last, that's another $500 in parts if I have to change them out. I will try looking for one in the wanted section though. If I can get it here at a reasonable price I'll keep her going a while longer.

Thanks for the replies. All the tires are the same size, they were all replaced together 20,000 miles ago and have been rotated. One side lost about 10lbs of pressure and I don't know how long it was like that before I noticed it. That's what put the nail in the coffin on the coupling I'm sure. It's better with the tires properly inflated but defiantly not 100%. No it isn't completely shot yet, it's just starting to go. As for junkyard parts it's pretty much out of the question. Junkyards around here think parts are made of solid gold. They want $2,000 for any transmission. I could buy another good running car for that. I'm debating getting the part from the dealer and changing it out if it's possible to do it. The cars worth about two grand, I need the coupling, timing belts, a clutch, an 02 sensor, possibly a cat and I need to repair some rust. When a $2,000 car needs $1,000 worth of parts it might be time for it to retire.

I have a 96 Legacy Outback 5spd with 160k on it. Recently when I'm making low speed turns sometimes I feel a lot of resistance from the drive train. It feels kind of like I'm driving my pickup in 4 wheel on dry pavement but isn't too terrible. I assume my viscous coupling is on it's way out and it's only going to get worse from here. Is their anything I can do to tell for sure it is the viscous coupling as I know it's not a cheap part and don't want to replace it if it isn't bad. Also I've heard older models have a two piece one or something to that avail which is more difficult to change. I have a build date of 11/95. If I jack up one side of the car both wheels will spin together freely. If I jack up a single tire it will turn with some resistance, defiantly not freely but you don't have to put all your muscle into it either. I also don't always have the binding problem while driving. Can I remove the rear drive shaft to see if the problem persists or will the car not even move/damage something?