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All_talk

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Posts posted by All_talk

    damn damn damn damn

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I have fixed the squashed tube problem by driving progressively larger and larger socket into the fitting with a little light hammer work on the outside. Just be sure not to loose a socket down inside or drive one is so far or deep that you cant get a hold of it to pull it out.

     

    Gary

    Anybody have a look inside the F/T center diff?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Thanks for the link, lots of good info and pics there.

     

    I still not sure if the transfer gear is on a hub that comes through the housing thats bolted together or turns with it.

     

    Also, dose anybody have a picture of a pinion shaft by itself out of the gear stack? F/T, P/T or EJ should show what I'm looking for. I'm wondering how the smaller splined end that drives out of the diff is connected to the pinion shaft, it looks to be a sleeve.

     

    To know if my crazy plan has any hope I think I'm going to have to buy a spare F/T EA box and a gen 1 EJ box and tear them down (I'm not going to rip the trans outta my RX or my T-Leg on a recon mission).

    Anybody have a look inside the F/T center diff?

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted · Edited by All_talk

    I’ve got some pictures of the assembled center diff unit but I’m trying to completely understand it (without tearing my RX apart). Anybody disassembled one? Got pics? Or maybe someone has a scan of an exploded view from the FSM?

     

    100_0165.jpg

     

    My biggest question at this point is about the output to the rear. The transfer gear looks to be mounted to the outer housing and if so the whole housing must be connected to the rear side gear. Anyway, if you have played with one or torn one down maybe you can fill me in.

    Gary

    Plan B..er C? D?.....A New Plan

    in Subaru Transplants

    Posted

    Where are the vin's located on the 66 bugs?

     

    I have heard the door pillar and the windshield dash area?

     

    I'm looking at one that has neither?

     

    Where else could I look for a vin?

     

    Thanks,

    Glenn

     

    All Beetles have the VIN stamped in the top of the pan (frame) tunnel under the back seat, the body tag with the number in under the hood in the spare tire well. Check both, if there's a miss match there could be a problem with the title. I think they started putting the VIN in the lower left corner of the window in '68.

     

    Gary

    Project RUBASU

    in Subaru Transplants

    Posted

    Which way round do you intend to mount the engine ?

     

    If you use an auto trans you can have rear engined 4wd, you need to reverse the drive direction within the transmission for the back wheels (doable)...

     

    I'm not sure how you plan to do this... I've been inside the Ej 4EAT and I dont think there is a practical way to make it happen. If the Ea trans is different maybe there is a way.

     

    Gary

    How does the AWD work?

    in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX

    Posted

    The front speed sensor on the pre '95 cars (with cable speedo drive) is in the gauge cluster. The bounce that you see is likely due to a worn drive cable, relubing may help but a new cable would be best. Its possible that your cable was improperly reconnected or was pulled and is not full seated in the back of the gauge cluster, but if the speedo is working correctly I doubt thats the case.

     

    Some delay in the rear engagement is normal and I think the more mileage on the tranny the more likely you'll get it. My '92 Turbo Legacy had notable wheel spin before engagement.

     

    Gary

    How does the AWD work?

    in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX

    Posted

     

    Subaru did a great job with the ad campaign "from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip" but it doesn't really work that way. A subaru can never take all the power away from any one wheel, or axle. The best it can do it lock everything up so that each wheel is seeing 25% of the power.

     

    Keith

    Not exactly true, open diffs are torque balancing devices, the two axels are always outputting the same torque (not the same speed or power). As long as no wheels are slipping both axels get half the available torque, and in the case of the Ej 5MT with the center diff, all 4 wheels get the same torque, 25% at each wheel… until a wheel starts to slip. When slip occurs in an open diff the output is still balanced, but is equal to the wheel with the least grip. So worst case, one wheel gets no traction (think one wheel off the ground), its outputting no torque and so is the other one that’s stopped on the ground. But in a LSD diff the VC (or clutch packs) use the speed difference from axel to axel to apply torque across the diff. The free spinning wheel still applies no torque, but the wheel with traction does (equal to the torque created across the VC) and starts to turn. And since “power” is a function of speed (RPM) and torque, the Subaru AWD system in the 5MT with its center VLSD does in fact “transfer power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip”.

     

    Gary

    FT4WD center diff question

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Check this old thread for pics inside the F/T 4WD trans.

     

    http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15410&highlight=anybody+inside+these+trans

     

    The difference between the EA F/T MT5 and the EJ AWD is the EA is a open diff with a lock and the EJ has a VLSD center diff. A always open center diff wouldn't be a very good thing.

     

    And FWIW... Subaru called it "Full Time 4WD" thu '91, my '91 Legacy SS is F/T, my '92 was "AWD"

     

    Gary

    subaru oil pressure

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    I've had several Ea82 pressure senders go bad, they start to leak oil into the electrical side and show very low pressure. If I hit the brakes at highway speed the oil would slosh up on the contacts and the pressure would drop to 0.

     

    Keep in mind if the pressure were really very low the lifters would start to get pretty noisy. Like GD said, rig up a mechanical gauge to test (I layed mine under the windshield wiper for a day), or swap it with a known good sender.

     

    Gary

    LSD rebuilding info

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted

    what, are you an engineer or something? :lol:

     

    Shhhhh, dont tell anybody, I'll start to get a reputation as a know-it-all geek... damn, too late.:D

     

    P.S. I ment to catch up with you at WCSS8 (you were there right?), but I was only there for the day on Sat. Hell I may have even talked to you, just didn't know it was you, LOL.

    LSD rebuilding info

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted

    ...The springs are 2 beveled washers which were installed both in the same orientation. This seemed a little odd since I use these things on some of my machines at work and always alternate the bevels (bellville type spring washers) so I put them back in big end to big end...

     

    Just a note on Belleville spring washers... Parallel stacking (nesting big end to small end) increases the spring rate, i.e. 2 washers have twice the rate. Inverted stacking (big end to big end, small to small) allows twice the deflection for the same load, so half the spring rate.

     

    So in the case of the LSD diff, stacking the springs back to back my have increased the preload (you would have to compress them more to fit into the same space that they would fit nested), but has reduced the rate that ramps apply load to the clutch pack. And in a clutch type LSD the preload really dosen't do much work, its the torque applied that engages the ramps and the ramps are what puts the real squeeze on the clutches. Now as long as the springs get fully compressed (or near) before you run out of ramp travel it makes little difference which way you stack them, in the end its the ramp angle that determines the force in the clutch pack for a given torque load.

     

    Wow, thats just to much typing

    Gary

    mods for better gas mileage

    in Subaru Retrofitting

    Posted

    In other words, the aomunt of energy needed just to spin the engine at an extra 1000rpm is the same as the energy needed to cruise the car at 55MPH on the level. (circa 12-20HP!)

     

    Thats without aerodynamic resistance... For the average car, the required road HP at highway speed (50-70mph) is around 40HP.

     

    Just a side note to a side note. :D

     

    And a note ON topic... Most engines have a "sweet spot" where the volumetric efficiency (VE) peaks, this is the RPM that the engine breathes best. Above this point the mechanical efficiency drops off pretty quickly and fuel mileage declines rapidly, for Subarus this point seems very pronounced. I have a long commute and have experimented with cruise RPM a bit, in my EA Subes this break point is about 3300RPM and around 2700RPM in my Turbo Legacy.

     

    Gary

    Adjustable Cam Pulleys (again)

    in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...

    Posted

    Now I wasn’t gonna say a word tell they were done, but I’m hoping a little encouragement will help get me off my butt and finish these before WCSS8. First my apologies to those who expressed interest before, life, new job (which still has me buried in work), blah blah blah… whatever the excuse, I dropped the ball.

     

    Original thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29308&highlight=adjustable+cam+pulley

     

     

    I have started on a run of six sets in aluminum and the hubs are close to done, I still need to scrounge up a few more sets of stock pulleys tho. Here’s a couple of pics.

     

     

    EA82pulley002.jpg

     

     

    EA82pulley003.jpg

     

     

    EA82pulley005.jpg

     

     

    Looks like the finished price will be a bit higher than the old post predicts (isn’t that always the way), after I get this set done and figure the time I’ll know, but I’m shooting for $200 a set or less. So if any of you guys want them and you nag me enough it might just happen this time.

     

     

    Let me know

    Gary

     

     

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