All_talk

A bump from the distant past… I found this project in a box a few days ago and have decided to see if anyone would like to move it along. Check my For Sale add here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=134697 Gary

I have fixed the squashed tube problem by driving progressively larger and larger socket into the fitting with a little light hammer work on the outside. Just be sure not to loose a socket down inside or drive one is so far or deep that you cant get a hold of it to pull it out. Gary

Hey Pat, Looong time no type. Thanks for the info, what you described is what I was thinking. Do you recall if the side gear for the rear is part of the flange section (with the through holes for the bolts) or part of the housing section (with the tapped holes). Gary

Thanks for the link, lots of good info and pics there. I still not sure if the transfer gear is on a hub that comes through the housing thats bolted together or turns with it. Also, dose anybody have a picture of a pinion shaft by itself out of the gear stack? F/T, P/T or EJ should show what I'm looking for. I'm wondering how the smaller splined end that drives out of the diff is connected to the pinion shaft, it looks to be a sleeve. To know if my crazy plan has any hope I think I'm going to have to buy a spare F/T EA box and a gen 1 EJ box and tear them down (I'm not going to rip the trans outta my RX or my T-Leg on a recon mission).

Thanks Qman, I thought that might be the one.

I’ve got some pictures of the assembled center diff unit but I’m trying to completely understand it (without tearing my RX apart). Anybody disassembled one? Got pics? Or maybe someone has a scan of an exploded view from the FSM? My biggest question at this point is about the output to the rear. The transfer gear looks to be mounted to the outer housing and if so the whole housing must be connected to the rear side gear. Anyway, if you have played with one or torn one down maybe you can fill me in. Gary

I’m pretty sure there isn’t one from the L series cars, all the fulltime cars were turbo. But what about the XT, any fulltime N/A 3.9 cars? Gary

Look in the offroad section here: http://shoptalkforums.com/index.php Gary

All Beetles have the VIN stamped in the top of the pan (frame) tunnel under the back seat, the body tag with the number in under the hood in the spare tire well. Check both, if there's a miss match there could be a problem with the title. I think they started putting the VIN in the lower left corner of the window in '68. Gary

I'm not sure how you plan to do this... I've been inside the Ej 4EAT and I dont think there is a practical way to make it happen. If the Ea trans is different maybe there is a way. Gary

The front speed sensor on the pre '95 cars (with cable speedo drive) is in the gauge cluster. The bounce that you see is likely due to a worn drive cable, relubing may help but a new cable would be best. Its possible that your cable was improperly reconnected or was pulled and is not full seated in the back of the gauge cluster, but if the speedo is working correctly I doubt thats the case. Some delay in the rear engagement is normal and I think the more mileage on the tranny the more likely you'll get it. My '92 Turbo Legacy had notable wheel spin before engagement. Gary

Not exactly true, open diffs are torque balancing devices, the two axels are always outputting the same torque (not the same speed or power). As long as no wheels are slipping both axels get half the available torque, and in the case of the Ej 5MT with the center diff, all 4 wheels get the same torque, 25% at each wheel… until a wheel starts to slip. When slip occurs in an open diff the output is still balanced, but is equal to the wheel with the least grip. So worst case, one wheel gets no traction (think one wheel off the ground), its outputting no torque and so is the other one that’s stopped on the ground. But in a LSD diff the VC (or clutch packs) use the speed difference from axel to axel to apply torque across the diff. The free spinning wheel still applies no torque, but the wheel with traction does (equal to the torque created across the VC) and starts to turn. And since “power” is a function of speed (RPM) and torque, the Subaru AWD system in the 5MT with its center VLSD does in fact “transfer power from the wheels that slip to the wheels that grip”. Gary

Check this old thread for pics inside the F/T 4WD trans. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15410&highlight=anybody+inside+these+trans The difference between the EA F/T MT5 and the EJ AWD is the EA is a open diff with a lock and the EJ has a VLSD center diff. A always open center diff wouldn't be a very good thing. And FWIW... Subaru called it "Full Time 4WD" thu '91, my '91 Legacy SS is F/T, my '92 was "AWD" Gary

This old thread may be some good reading to start with, pics too. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=15410&highlight=anybody+inside+these+trans Gary

I've had several Ea82 pressure senders go bad, they start to leak oil into the electrical side and show very low pressure. If I hit the brakes at highway speed the oil would slosh up on the contacts and the pressure would drop to 0. Keep in mind if the pressure were really very low the lifters would start to get pretty noisy. Like GD said, rig up a mechanical gauge to test (I layed mine under the windshield wiper for a day), or swap it with a known good sender. Gary

FWIW, I bought a '90 Loyal with the P-side cam one tooth retarded, ran pretty good. I found the problem when I resealed the engine, fixed it... runs about the same. :-\ And I normal use the one belt at a time method. Gary

Shhhhh, dont tell anybody, I'll start to get a reputation as a know-it-all geek... damn, too late. P.S. I ment to catch up with you at WCSS8 (you were there right?), but I was only there for the day on Sat. Hell I may have even talked to you, just didn't know it was you, LOL.

Just a note on Belleville spring washers... Parallel stacking (nesting big end to small end) increases the spring rate, i.e. 2 washers have twice the rate. Inverted stacking (big end to big end, small to small) allows twice the deflection for the same load, so half the spring rate. So in the case of the LSD diff, stacking the springs back to back my have increased the preload (you would have to compress them more to fit into the same space that they would fit nested), but has reduced the rate that ramps apply load to the clutch pack. And in a clutch type LSD the preload really dosen't do much work, its the torque applied that engages the ramps and the ramps are what puts the real squeeze on the clutches. Now as long as the springs get fully compressed (or near) before you run out of ramp travel it makes little difference which way you stack them, in the end its the ramp angle that determines the force in the clutch pack for a given torque load. Wow, thats just to much typing Gary

Thats without aerodynamic resistance... For the average car, the required road HP at highway speed (50-70mph) is around 40HP. Just a side note to a side note. And a note ON topic... Most engines have a "sweet spot" where the volumetric efficiency (VE) peaks, this is the RPM that the engine breathes best. Above this point the mechanical efficiency drops off pretty quickly and fuel mileage declines rapidly, for Subarus this point seems very pronounced. I have a long commute and have experimented with cruise RPM a bit, in my EA Subes this break point is about 3300RPM and around 2700RPM in my Turbo Legacy. Gary

Ha Ha... very good

The EJ22T was only available in North America '91 to '94, all other Subie EJ turbo engines were 2.0L, and now the newer 2.5L. The early 2.0s were closed deck (tell '95 I think). Gary

I think you’re gonna have to look at some place a little more industrial, Fastenal, Tacoma Screw, Grangers or the like. Gary

Yep, 11 x 1.25 bastard size, but I do remember seeing taps that size in the MSC catalog. Gary