All_talk

Just washed the cars so I figured I'd take a pic (sorry a little fuzzy, it was getting dark). On the left... '87 RX, On the right... '91 Legacy SS More pics of the cars and stuff here: http://photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/Legacy%20SS/ Gary

yeah, it could be the bulb, some people even remove them so they dont have to look at the light (or before they sell a car ). It should come on with the key before you start that car. Gary

I vote for checking the PCV system for proper operation aswell. On synthetics and temperature… Yes, synthetics normally show lower oil temps and in some cases even lower water temps, some of this is likely due to the reduced friction they provide. But, synthetics reject heat, or more to the point they don’t absorb heat as readily as conventional oils do. Parts of the engine that are primarily cooled by oil (like the bottom end) and even those that’s are secondarily cooled with oil (like the heads) can actually run at higher temps within the metal because the synthetic dose not carry the heat away as well. In a typical water cooled engine this is rarely a problem. A lot of this research and knowledge comes from the air-cooled VW world were the oils cooling roll is just as important as its lubrication. While the debate on Synth vs. Dyno still rages in that community as well, a lot of us would never run synthetic in our air suckers. Sometimes appearances can be deceiving and it’s good to know what’s really going on. Just one point of view Gary

Who’s the rock star?? I’m sure you could ohm test the C-solenoid at the connector on the top of the trans, I don’t know which wire it is but I bet somebody does, if not I could do a little checkin on the old 4EAT I have in the shop. Here are a bunch more pics inside the 4EAT. http://photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/ I didn’t get into rebuilding the clutch packs and such. I was just swaping my 3.9:1 diff on to it (replacing the 4:11) so I could use it in my ’92 Turbo Legacy. I did swap the C-solenoid from my old trans cause the PO thought it might have had a problem, I’m not sure that was the problem. I found that the clip that holds the pressure pipe feeding the transfer clutch wasn’t holding the pipe in firmly and it may have been bleeding off pressure. You can see the clamp and pipe in this pic. http://photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/?action=view&current=Image008.jpg Gary

Just to add some more info, here's a pic of its location with the tail housing removed... its the bit with the wire attached. Gary

Just to clear up some misinformation about the operation of the Subaru AWD systems… The 4EAT is directly geared to the front axle and power is transferred to the rear through an electronically controlled (TCU) clutch pack. Torque balance can vary from 100% front to 50/50 split, though under TCU control (no “FWD” fuse) the max imbalance is designed to be 90F/10R. The 5MT has a true VLSD center diff, not just a viscous coupling connected to the rear shaft. The front shaft is NOT connected directly to the trans output, there is a gear diff with the VC between the front and rear outputs. There are no clutch plates in the center VC, its purely fluid shear, as the fluid heats from the differential movement it gets thicker and resists further movement. The VC in the center diff is designed to transfer a given level of torque and can be over powered, torque beyond the rated value will cause wheel spin. Gary

Not the best for the center diff, but yeah I think you'd be OK, I'd go slow. If it were me I think I'd pull the 4 bolts that hold the driveline to the rear diff input and tie the drive line up to the exhaust... no worries then. Gary

Much more likely to be a cam seal than the valve cover, cam seal are the number one leak on the EA82s from my experience. It can be very hard to tell but every one I've had with a leak coming down between the front of the head/valve cover and the back of the timming cover ended up being the cam seals. Gary

That reminds me... the late style is one wire and the early is two wire, tho the second could just be a ground. The early set up is a stand alone with a vac type distributor, the later set up has the timming retard built into the ECU Gary

I know the early (up to '86, flapper MAF) and late ('87+, hotwire MAF) EA82T's use a different style knock sensor, or at least they look different and the wire connecter is different. My stock '87 has the hole in the bottom, I've got a early one I could check too. If thats any help Gary

Archemitis is right, a turbocharger extracts energy from the exhaust stream and that energy is mainly provided as heat. Sure velocity has some effect but even at high velocity the exhaust gases have very little mass so they carry little kinetic energy. It’s all about thermodynamics and the key is the pressure vs. temperature relationship for compressible fluid flow. In the same way the compressor boost temperature along with pressure the opposite is happening in the turbine… maximize the temperature (and pressure) drop across the turbine and you maximize the energy extracted. On the subject at hand… Anti-lag, the competition system used by WRC and the like typically use the “bang-bang” type which dumps raw fuel into the exhaust manifold on throttle close, where it ignites keeping the temp and pressure ahead of the turbo high. Any functional anti-lag system will have to accomplish the same. Gary

I say it needs a full STI drivetrain swap, but keep the stock hubcaps... no need to tip your hand. Gary

The '87+ hot wire EA82T MAF uses an odd voltage range 1-10VDC (typical MAFs are 0 to 5VDC), I've tested my RX ('87, stock) and got 3V at idle and 6V full boost/throttle at redline (2ed gear). I'd bet fuel cut hits around 7 volts. Maybe one of the guys with a FCD could tell you where they have it set. Hope this helps Gary

Check the screw that holds the rotor in the distributor, I've seen them come loose more than once. In fact I recently picked up a very nice '90 loyal sedan for next to nothing due to this, the owner thought the T-belts had gone. And BTW, the EA82 runs pretty well with one cam retarded a tooth. Gary

The cap should be sealed, I'm with nipper, sounds like a bad purge solenoid. If its a problem with the electric side of the solenoid (open coil) you should get a ECU code. Gary

Yeah, I'm not sure the carbureted cars have the test mode connectors. Might be easiest to pull the pump feed line like KStretch55 said. Gary

I dont think the EA82 cars have a drain plug in the fuel tank. If you plug in the test mode connectors the fuel pump will pulse with the key on but engine not running. I did this to empty a tank, just ran a line from the filter into a can and let it go, it didn't take to long but it was only about 2 1/2 gal. Gary

Chart from the FSM for EA82/T Gary

Like Northwet said, swap the manifold complete, it holds all the sensors/wiring (except the knock if you have one). The trick for that EGR fitting is heat... fire up the torch and get it good and hot and it should come right loose. And watch those manifold bolts they like to corrode (aluminum manifold/steel bolt). Gary

The Subaru 5MT center diff is not a viscous coupling, its a true VLSD diff. As blitz said, if you remove the rear shaft the viscous clutch between the two sides of the diff will have to carry the entire torque load all the time... not good! A VLSD will only hold so much torque, once heated and fully engaged it can still be overloaded and slip. In normal use (with the rear drive shaft in), this would only happen momentarily if ever, with the rear shaft out you could be overloading the viscous clutch all the time and they can be damaged like this. Gary

Sounds like a front outer CV is on the way out, try some lock to lock figure eights and circles in a parking lot, listen for clicks and feel for binding. Just a thought Gary

I believe all the cams are different for carb, SPFI, N/A MPFI and Turbo, and I'm pretty sure the early EA82T '85-'86 is a diff cam than the late '87+, note the ratred HP change from 111 to 115, Maybe the '85-'86 turbos used a cam from one of the other induction types? Factory part numbers should tell us. Gary

The nose up thing wont work with the EJ22T... the fill point/radiator cap is on the expansion tank which is quite high up in the engine bay and closer to the the firewall than the radiator. Just leave it level run it with the cap off tell the thermostat opens and top it off. make sure you have some coolant in the recovery tank and a few heat/cold cycles should purge the air from the system (pretty much as Carl said, just level). Check the pic below, the expansion tank is right of the throttle body and note the bleed line from the top left of the radiator that leads up the the expansion tank... its a well designed system. Gary

Its on the back of the intake manifold, below the throttle body, just to the drivers side in the SPFI I think. Follow the breather hose from the top of the drivers side valve cover. Hope that helps Gary

Beyond trim and bagdeing the RX package includes (some of these features were options on the GLs)… Early RX ’85-‘86, Sedan Checkerboard interior Body kit Stiffer spring and struts Larger sway bars Turbo engine (EA82T) Part time dual range 5-speed trans (1.5:1 low range) LSD rear diff Late RX ’87-‘89, Sedan and 3-door Coupe (Coupe only in '89) White only (Black only in ’89) Body kit Stiffer spring and struts Larger sway bars Turbo engine (EA82T) Full time dual range 5-speed trans with center diff lock (1.2:1 low range) (4EAT available in ’89) LSD rear diff What did I miss? Gary