All_talk

Now I wasn’t gonna say a word tell they were done, but I’m hoping a little encouragement will help get me off my butt and finish these before WCSS8. First my apologies to those who expressed interest before, life, new job (which still has me buried in work), blah blah blah… whatever the excuse, I dropped the ball. Original thread here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=29308&highlight=adjustable+cam+pulley I have started on a run of six sets in aluminum and the hubs are close to done, I still need to scrounge up a few more sets of stock pulleys tho. Here’s a couple of pics. Looks like the finished price will be a bit higher than the old post predicts (isn’t that always the way), after I get this set done and figure the time I’ll know, but I’m shooting for $200 a set or less. So if any of you guys want them and you nag me enough it might just happen this time. Let me know Gary

Its well matched to the EA82T. Check this thread for some rough flow mapping on the compressor map. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=22146&highlight=td04+compressor+map Gary

In general, 0.030 is the standard for deck clearance, so depending on compressed head gasket thickness some piston hight above the block may be fine, I know the EJ22T has some. Be sure to check for valve clearance. Gary

Do a search on "tick of death" or "TOD". Truth is Subies will run forever with the HLA tick... its more like the Tick-O-Life. Gary

+2 This should be true of any engine with a closed PCV system, if you open the cap and the idle doesn't change that means the air was already getting in somewhere else or the rings are so bad they are alowing a lot of air by at idle... not good. Gary

I wouldn't use the clearcoat, sure it could provide some UV protection but it takes years for them to yellow without it (as they came stock) and you can just sand them again. And it will only make them transmit less light. Mine were pretty bad, I progressively wet sanded from 400 to 2000 and hit them with the buffer and polishing compound... been clear for months. And a truly clear lens does wonders for the beem pattern. Finished buffing on one of my '92 SS lenses Beem pattern on my '91 SS with the left clear and the right still "yellowed" Gary

Yep, like the Doc says. Turbo 3.70, N/A 3.90 Gary

Hey Rollie Most direct way is to use the Kennedy plate Craig mentioned, I'd mate it up to a later VW Bus trans or a Porsche box if you want it to last under spirited driving, these can be built up very strong if you need it. To use the VW reduction boxes would require and lot of custom fab/machine work and if not engineered right might have the same harsh reverse torque reaction the stock ones do. But it could be done. Gary

In my old '65 Pontiac, I modified the housings to take the clip in 55W halogen fog light bulbs, worked great and never blew a fuse. If I was redoing it today I'd add a power relay to take the high load off the stock circuit. BTW, the '65 Pontiac housings are cast metal not plastic. Gary

Hey Stephen Sounds like you might have a crack in an exhaust port, these normally start between the valves then extend down the port. You have to look under the valve to really see them. I know this can be a problem with the EA82 head but haven’t heard that it’s common in the EJ stuff. In the future, if you’re gonna spend money at the machine shop a pressure test should be on the list. And on you’re original P.S. question, I don’t think there is any difference in the ’90 to ’94 injectors, but in general its best to keep the injectors matched with the ECU/system they came with. Gary

I find myself thinking... why? But what the he||, its not my car. The EA82 Subes actually have good lights. Its the first gen Legacys that need some help. And BTW, I like the SVX. Gary

Got ya Doc, works for both... Sweet! Gary

Great pics, thanks for takin the time. If I go deeper into this idea it would most likely be part of my hopeful AWD mid-engined VW Beatle project, so a custom transfer case and parts is a given. The only way I'm gonna really figure out what might be done is to tear down a couple of trannies and start measuring out some stuff. Gary

The Legacy SS was made for 4 years, '91-'94 (T-wagon "92-'94), but only the '91 SS came with the rear VLSD standard, I think it may have been an option for the later cars. Gary

Hmmm, I thought it had male stubs, guess I'll have to take a closer look. Gary

And thats just rotating static pressure, actually firing pressures are about 1000 times the coolant pressure. Gary

You could do it but I dont think it will tell you all that much. Conditions in a cold bench test wont even be close to a running, up to temp engine. Sure it could show you a major issue, but wont prove the integrity of the seal under normal conditions. Gary

The VLSD from the early Legacy is a direct replacement for the EA diff, it has male spined stubs that match the EA82T axels. I have '91 Legacy SS with the VLSD and I find its very smooth and progressive, but I've never found the clutch type LSD in my RX overly harsh. I think that for a street car the VLSD is better. The rear LSD/VLSD will make the car harder to rotate (understeer) up to the point where you have enough power to break the rear end loose, then it will create more oversteer. I find this effect much more pronounced with the LSD than the VLSD. Gary

A layout of the parts would be great, gears, shafts, syncros, shifting fork and such. And just to fill in the blank, I'm thing about adding a P/T transfer case behind a F/T box so you would have three options... Fulltime - open diff Fulltime - locked diff 2WD (diff locked) Maybe even work in the EJ VLSD center diff so the fulltime options would be VLSD/locked. Gary

Looking for pictures inside the EA single/dual range (assuming the 2wd/4wd guts are the same), specifically the the transfer case section. I'm thinking again... Gary

Can not be flipped... look here for more: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=41009&highlight=flipped+hypoid+spiral Gary

I wouldn't go as far as to say that, but your're gonna need to educate your self a bit. The FSM would be a good palce to start. Or take it to a tranny shop and pay the man. Gary

Sure could be done, as to parts sources... Lots of EJ Subaurs with hyd clutches, those parts might workout (specialy the pedal box). Also look at the aftermarket stuff the VW/dune buggy guys use. Gary

And.... Gear setup is VERY critical, you cant just swap them. Adjusting the placement and backlash is not an easy task for a novice mechanic. And if not done correctly the gear set will chew its self to bits in very short order! Just be for warned Gary ..... I hate being a buzz kill

Its not as simple as tooth count, the gear geometry is different between the ratios, without getting into the engineering, the ratios come down to pitch diameters, not tooth count. You can not mix and match ring and pinion gears in a hypoid set (or any bevel set for that matter). Gary