All_talk

This is entirely true. I my humble opinion this is not really true… the sophistication is in the programming of the TCU, not the mechanics. And while this does ring of marketing BS, in some ways it’s true. The TCU uses the TPS to detect aggressive throttle maneuvers which are more likely to produce slip/wheel spin and sets more line pressure to the transfer. In this way the system can anticipate potential slip. Gary

Yes, the oil pump seal can fail in a way that will cause pressure problems and still not leak externally. Gary

The rear transfer clutch pack is in the tail housing, kinda orange-ish, cog looking thing. If the only issues with the trans have to due with the rear drive, chances are this is as deep as you will need to go. Here's another pic that shows some detail (sorry about the size). Gary

Here's a pic that may shed a little light, the C-sol is the bit with the green wire. More pics inside the 4EAT here: http://photobucket.com/albums/v204/All_talk/Subaru/4EAT/ Gary

You might want to get yourself a mechanics stethoscope, great diagnostic tool. On listening: I almost always drive the first and last few miles of my commute with the radio off, I like to catch new noises before they become big problems. Gary

Right, '85-'86 RX are P/T 4WD, '87-'89 RX are Fulltime 4WD w/diff lock Gary

Like zyewdall said, the EA Subes dont have them, my '91 Legacy SS does tho, I can live with or without it, makes no nevermind to me. But I never leave the car in gear and always wiggle the shifter before I hit the key... good driving is all about good habits. Gary

The automatic trans uses a clutch pack to transfer power to the rear (not a center diff), and will work fine without the rear drive. If its a 4EAT (did those even come in the Loyals ?) the TCU may throw a code. The 4WD switch just opens a soleinod that applies Vacuum to the 4WD servo (diaphragm) to apply pressure to the rear transfer clutch... just leave it in 2WD. Gary

They were available but I dont think there were many, they seem to be most common in '86 Turbo 3-door Coupes (I have one, parts car). wes200x, you're right the 1st tru 5th gear ratios are adjusted for the 3.7 final drive but the overall the 3.9 trans will have slightly lower gearing due to the lower power of the N/A engine. The Fulltime 4WD D/R (locking center diff) trans was only available in the RX and if you can get one I'd suggest looking into it... its a very nice box behind the turbo engine. Another note, the RX F/T D/R has a 1.2:1 low range (others are 1.5:1), which functions as a gear splitter (2ed Low is a great sharp corner gear ). This Low ratio also falls right in as a 6th gear... launch in Low range (which equates to 4.44 diff gears), shift through the 5 gears then go to high range at the top. Gary

I'm glad NorthWet piped in here, saved me a lot of typing. And hes much better versed in electronics that I.... I'm a ME not an EE. More thoughts... the PWN generator will most likely need to drive a switching transistor like a MOSFET or such, as its unlikly the IC will handle the required current. The PWN frequency and solenoid resistance/inductance will dictate which device would be best. Gary

With a fairly simple bit of electronics you could build driver adjustable a PWM (pulse width modulation) control circuit that would give you something like the DCCD. Then with a flip of the switch you could go between auto and DCCD control. Might require switching a load resister/inductor in to the TCU circuit so it wont throw codes. Gary

Just to clarify, full voltage to duty sol C will remove pressure from the rear trasfer clutch pack and put you in 2WD (thats wnat the "FWD' fuse does), no volts to the C-sol will let full line perssure to the clutch pack and lock in the rear. Gary

Shop around for the best deal, but I'm guessin around $200 installed. Gary

Its my understanding that all the cam profiles are different between the Turbo/SPFI/Carb engines along with some year changes like the early/late turbo cams. But, like NorthWet said, the differences are small and would not have a drastic effect on performance. I recently bought a ’90 Loyal with one cam timed a tooth off and it ran quite well and I didn’t notice a huge difference once it was timed correctly. You replaced the drivers side cam case? If so you would have had to restab the distributor… double check the ignition timing. And along the line of what NorthWet said... assume nothing, check everything! Gary

This idea has come up a few times before, here's some info I posted in another thread, a search will dig up more. Take a look at what the VeeWee guys have been doing for decades with flat four carbs. Similar engine sizes so the same carbs should work with a little re-jetting, spread bore 40, 45 and 48mm Dells and Webers for dual ports and the 40mm Solexs (“Kadrons”) for the singles. Manifolds are the only issue, but aluminum welds, cuts and files pretty easy. Here are some links to good VW info: Basic run down of vw carb options: http://www.aircooled.net/gnrlsite/resource/articles/carbs101.htm Some pricing on this kinda stuff: http://www.socalautoparts.com/Catalog/CatalogSubCat.aspx Gary

Easy now, I’m an engineer.:-p The hubs are cast iron or cast steel, the later being more weldable, exactly what type I cant tell you. The issues with welding cast iron, and to a lesser degree cast steel, are mostly due to is relatively high carbon content and that carbon’s nature to precipitate when heated, leading to brittleness at the edge of the heat effected zone. Pre and post heating are the norm to temper this effect. Also, any imperfections in the weld will create stress points that will eventually fail under the type of cyclic loading a hub sees. The filler metal used is also critical, cast iron is often welded with a high nickel rod. Without all the engineer talk… if not done right they will break, a serious safety concern for a road car. Here in the US doing the 5-lug swap with salvage parts in the most affordable option, not sure how thing balance out there in AU. Gary

blitz is spot on, a good set of snows is night and day (Cooper WeatherMaster M/T2 in my case), makes my '91 T-Leg a snow monster. And any of my Subes will run circles around my 4WD Suburban, not even in the same class. Gary

Interesting, I hadn’t seen the layout of the rear VLSD, I was surprised to see the asymmetric mechanical layout, but after reasoning through it, it provides equal torque control without using two sections like a typical clutch type. And this set up requires that the VLSD is a 2-way unit, which explains the great balance I feel under deceleration in my T-Leg. The more I learn about the Subaru AWD system, the more I see why it’s superior, it’s incredibly well engineered. Gary

4 running ('91 T-Leg, '87 RX, '98 GL Wagon, '90 Loyal Sedan) 1 not ('86 turbo coupe, parts) But I've only been doin the Subaru thing for a few years, dont even ask about my old VWs, been doin them for a long time, currently I think I've got 1 running, 6 not and 2 sheds full of parts. Current total of all vehicles on the property is 10 running, 10 not. Gary

OUCH, good thing thats not a common failing for Subies... I'm guessing oil starvation or way over reved. Gary

Sure could be the strut, but the fact that its not all the way around the tire makes me think its an unbalanced or bent wheel. Could also just be a bum tire, I've had tires damaged from an impact that didn't blow at the time, but failed just as you described months later. Gary

Its not a shear pin, its just a roll pin to keep it on, the splines take the load. Sounds like you may have a turbo axle on a N/A trans, from what I've heard they feel like they fit, but the turbo is larger and will spin on the N/A output shaft once the pin shears. My RX has pretty floppy output shafts (310,000miles), its the bearings, but still runs just fine and leaks almost no gear oil. Is it just the stub moving or is the DOJ wigglin on the stub... again possibly a turbo axle on a N/A stub. Gary

About 6:45 this morning on my way into work I saw a '88? (red trim) RX 3 door with what looked like 14" Pugs (a little hard to tell at 80 in the dark). It looked pretty clean and the Pugs made me think it might be someone on the board. I was in the red T-Leg. Gary

Hey Chris, have you done any Snowmobiling before? If you promise to treat it kindly I'm sure I could lend ya a machine. If I set anything up I'll let ya know. Looks like we should have good snow by this weekend, I'd like to take machines out for a first season shake down (and the kids are buggin to get up there), but moneys real tight before Christmas and I'm not sure I can afford the extra fuel right now. Gary

I say take the ones you want and tell him to post the others up for sale here.