All_talk

Check engine light? Have you checked for codes? These cars are ODB1, you dont need a scan tool to read the codes. Gary

LMAO, thats classic Gary

I'm sure this is well known but I'll throw it out anyway... DO NOT touch the bulb glass with bare hands/fingers, it will leave a oil film that shortens the life of the bulb. I always wipe the bulb with a clean cotton cloth. Gary

I believe that the '86 and older EA82T uses an add on system like you describe, I think the control box is somewhere on the passenger side of the engine bay. I can go look at my parts car come day light. The '87+ Ea82T has the control built into the ECU. Gary

Oh yes it is you stinky poopy face :-p OK, grade school playground insults aside... you have a misunderstaning about how the Subaru EJ 5MT AWD system works (dont feel bad, lots of Subie fans do). The center diff certainly IS a true viscous coupled bevel gear type differential. These scans from the FSM will shed some light... basic description http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/AWDMT_description.jpg innner/outer pinion shaft http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_AWD_drive_pinion_assy.jpg the center diff http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff1.jpg how the diff transfers power http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff2.jpg http://www.main.experiencetherave.com:8080/subaru_manual_scans/FSM_Scans/MT_centerdiff3.jpg Thanks to Josh for the scans Gary

Look here: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=25174&page=2&pp=10&highlight=spring+rate+chart Gary

Just to add a few points… my experience is based on my ’91 Legacy SS 5MT and ’92 Legacy SS 4EAT (now sold). The 4EAT reacts faster and in most cases more positively, the center VLSD of the 5MT (and it is a true VLSD diff, not just a viscous coupling) can require quite a bit of wheel spin to work in some circumstances. That said, I feel the manual system is very smooth and balanced and gives that car a very predictable feel. Not to say the 4EAT system feels unpredictable, the handling quite nice, but it doesn’t provide the same feedback as the 5MT, its more of a “drive it and forget it” kinda thing. No question the active computer controlled system of the 4EAT is more a adaptable, having the ECU gives complete control over not only the AWD but the entire drive system, I’m sure Subaru considers it the superior setup and for the majority of drivers I’d agree. And they would likely use it across the model line except for the fact that the 5MT lacks the hydraulic system to power it. Gary

Yep, what he said ^ I have a '86 turbo coupe parts car with 3.7:1 dual range. Gary

Yes, there are differences, I'm not sure what all of them are, I know the turbo 4EAT is the same as the SVX trans and they have more disks in some of the clutch packs than the N/As. But most important is that all '90-'94 Legacy turbo sedans and wagons have a 3.90:1 final drive ratio and the N/A cars are 4.11:1. You can use a 4.11 trans but you will need to swap in a matching rear diff. Its common for turbo Legacy 4EAT to go out in the 120,000 to 150,000 mile range so finding a good used one could be tough unless its been recently rebuilt (the SVX guys snatch up good 3.90 4EATs as theirs go out even sooner than the T-Legs). I think the best option might be to find a later model/low mile 4EAT and swap the rear diff too. The 4:11 gears will give you a little better acceleration and a little worse gas mileage. Now there is one other option... I only mention this because its possible and I myself have done it, but I don’t really recommend it. The front diff section of the 4EAT is swappable so you can put your existing 3.90 diff onto a newer 4.11 trans. This involves some major disassembly and changing out the pinion shaft as well. The biggest issue is setting up the proper gear mesh between the ring and pinion, this is no minor thing and if its just a bit off the gears will chew themselves to shreds in short order. My experience is detailed here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=21482&highlight=front+diff+swap I hope this info helps Gary

It was my understanding that the main reason for crossdrilled or slotted rotors was to release gasses formed under hard use of older generation brake pads. Modern performance pads no longer gas off in this manner so the venting is no longer neceasary. Full faced rotors present the largest surface area and have been shown to provide the best performance with modern pads. I have also read that slotted and crossdrilled rotors that were not cast that way, but instead machined from solid blank rotor will almost always develop cracks under hard use. From a metallurgical point of view this makes some sense, as the cast in features will have a surface grain flow that will reduce stress risers when compared with machining. Just what I've read on the subject Gary

My owners manual for the EA82 says the oil pressure reading near zero at warm idle is normal. I've seen many that do this, if the pressure is low enough to cause trouble the valve adjusters would be very noisy. Gary

The system needs to draw a vacuum to pull the coolant from the recovery tank, a leak anywhere in the system even a very small one will act as a vent and pull in air. Check carefully for any leaks. Just another thought Gary

True... real snowtires are a night and day difference over the standard "all season" type. They're the number 2 improvement you can make for winter driving conditions, even better than AWD (number 1 is a smart and practiced driver). I've used the Cooper WeatherMaster S/T2 (unstudded) for years, great traction, good life and affordable. I just bought a set of 195/60R15 for the T-Leg at $47.00 a piece. Gary

Take a good close look at the splines on the axle, once you've stripped a hub or two they get beat out and the corners get rounded off and no amount of spindle nut torque will stop the inevitable. Gary

Like others have said, thats right on the money for the 3AT. I have the orginal window sticker from my '87 wagon, carbed, 4WD, 3AT, EPA estimated hiway mileage.... 22 mpg. And thats exactly what I got on my 95% freeway commute. I found that the milelage dropped off quickly above 3500RPM, if you can slow down a bit you can probably get another couple mpg. Gary

I drive Snoqualmie pass daily to and from work and I’ve seen the State Patrol require chains on AWD/4WD vehicles, normally they don’t but I’ve seen them inspect every vehicle as they roll through single file. In the end it’s the WSPs discretion. These days if its bad enough to require chains on passenger vehicles full closer is likely coming very soon, liability reasons I’m sure. I wish they would just run a plow up one lane and let those of us with capable vehicles/equipment roll, I hate getting stuck at work (getting stuck at home isn’t so bad). Only trucks over 10,000 GVW are REQUIRED to carry in the vehicle at all times, but if current conditions require chains for passenger cars and you don’t have them they will turn you around. On AWD/4WD vehicles chains should be run on the front or both axles. With all the above said… in 11 years of traveling back and forth over the pass 5 days a week I’ve only had to chain up twice and never in a Subaru. Gary

As many as it takes. Gary

You're not gonna wanna hear this but more than likely the 3ed/4th clutch pack is burnt out... Is the fluid dark or smell burnt at all? This is a common falure mode for the turbo Legacys, I bought a '92 Sport Sedan (SS) with the same issue. If it is the clutch/s you've got two choices, rebuild the trans, be ready to spend about $2500 for this. Or put in a used trans, you should be able to find a newer lower mile unit for around $400-500, I believe just about any year will work as long as its the complete trans with the matching torque converter (I put a '95 in mine) But the turbo Legacys have a different final drive ratio (3.90:1), so you will need to sawp a rear diff that matches (most likely 4.11:1). You will also have the labor to install it, yours or pay the man. Another note, the turbo EJ 4EATs are built stronger that the N/As, more clutch disks and such, so if driven hard the N/A trans may have shortened life. Option three, 5MT swap, its a bit of work but has been done by many. For more info check out: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/index.php Center of the Turbo Legacy universe Gary

I just hope the freeway stays reasonably clear given the condition of my tires. I'm gonna have to give the tire shop a call and see if they have what I need in stock. Today is the first legal day for studs so I'm sure they are buried, would be nice to get them on tonight. Gary

Yep, saw it this moring on my way to work, just a little slushy on the road. Time to get the snow tires on. If anybody is up there around 4:00ish I could stop and say hi on my way home, my car isn't setup for playin today, I'm still on some very worn summer tires. Gary

Pulling the dizzy cap is a good first check... and while you're in there look for a small screw laying in the bottom, it holds the rotor to the shaft. I've seen these fall out more than once and the rotor moves... no run. If you dont find the trouble there, start with the basics... fuel, spark, compression. Gary

Completely different voltage scale output, EA82T is 1v to 12v, the EJ is 0v to 5v, I explored the idea here: http://bbs.legacycentral.org/viewtopic.php?t=20750&highlight=maf+scale+output Gary

Cool, was fun. You were rollin that EA pretty fast but it didn't seem to mind. Yeah, the T-Leg doesn't lack for power, it still needs a bit of work but is turning out to be a great daily driver. I was gonna follow you off and say hey, but seemed like you had somewhere to be (I was just headed home, same as every day). And Steve, I'll keep an eye out for ya. Gary

Darker Red wagon with pugs, roof rack and lot-o-stickers, I didn't recognize the car but the driver sure looked familiar, maybe I've met you before... WCSS? I was in the Rio Red T-Leg. Gary

Thanks Jerry Yeah, the SS is all stock, the color is Rio Red and is apperently fairly rare for the '91 5MT cars. Gary