Storm

Just east of Cleveland, but I get out that way on occasion. This thread sparks alot of interest as a friend currently has a similar transplant underway in our shop. Non Subie donor or destination, but nonetheless similar in the end result. Should draw alot of "WTF....you did WHAT?" comments. I'll Pm when we'll be headed out your way....we can grab a beer or 3 and talk fab work! Jay

I just realized you're located in Toledo, Bill....that makes this project 10x cooler!

I made mine from a 32oz RC airplane fueltank. Cut one end just big enough to fit over the pump and pickup make a few holes and zip tie it to the strut that holds the pump. Then run the return line directly into the tank. Finally add a couple small holes near the halfway point to help it fill even more. Works well enough for the investment.....and saves money for more ....which leads to more ideas.....:-\ Jay Storm

The EJ25D intake manifold won't bolt up to the EJ22 heads, but a EJ253 (SOHC type) will bolt to it. The exhaust manifold is different as well (singleport on the EJ22). You can transfer the engine harness to the EJ22 and get away with changing a few sensor plugs to match newer stuff or rig up slightly different mounting methods (mainly the coil, TPS, IAC) and you might have to extend the cam sensor wires a little since the SOHC puts it in a different spot. Check the crank timing gear for the same number of teeth, as phase I and II can be different depending on the year.....use the one that goes with your ECU. Take care of those little things and know that you'll have an EGR code....it'll run just fine. Jay Storm

What did the turbo come off of? If the displacement was similar, it's more than likely suitably sized for your motor. Start welding up an up pipe and flange assembly. If you got the book by corky bell, you're on your way to understanding how they work, what they need to be reliable and what things you want to keep an eye on. Most of the cautions that get thrown around on nasioc are meant for people who expect the solution to come from the box. The general feeling I get from this community, is that y'all can basically make anything work well enough for your needs. You will learn alot about the differences between tuning forced induction versus naturally aspirated motors. Go for it and build up the boost levels slowly, while keeping an eye on temps, plugs, A/F ratios, etc..... Jay Storm

The O rings should be available from the dealer. The torque specs on that 96 EJ25D are different based on position. The bolts closest to the cam gears have a lower spec than the others because they are smaller. That said, the 96 uses shouldered bolts, which are very prone to stretching and breaking. If you're re using these, check each one for deformed threads. I would replace them myself....but only because I've had more than 3 with stretched threads. Also, double check that the specs are in ft/lbs and not in/lbs. The Haynes manual has some listed in each spec, so it's easy to break one trying to get _ft/lbs instead of in/lbs. Good luck, Jay Storm

Any numbers to back up the flow differences?

That just might work!!! Thanks! Jay

Looks like I got PM'd with a set of OEM type. Once I get a PN for these "hybrid" gaskets...I'll post it up!!! BTW...here's a link to a franken-wagon having too much fun in the dirt with his phase II EJ25 and 98 EJ22E heads..... http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=124045791458671801 Thanks all, Jay

Bumping this back up to let y'all know that I'm working with Cometic Gasket to develop a custom headgasket for the EJ25/EJ22 hybrid. I need to get them an EJ22 gasket to confirm the coolant passages are different and have them apply that pattern to the EJ25 gasket so folks don't have to modify theirs. If any of you have old OEM EJ22 gaskets, please PM or email me. I threw all of mine out already. Thanks, Jay Storm

Couple pics of our Imprezas with wide rubber.... DSP 2.5RS with 285-30-18 on 18x10.5" wheels DSP 2.5RS with 265-45-16 on 16x9" wheels FSP Brighton with 235-45-13 on 13x8" wheels

I'm keeping the drums on my Brighton as well.....Discs are over rated when you're so close to lockup anyway and no ABS..... Anyone ever do a direct weight comparison between the drum and disc setups? Way back in my FWD mopar days, the drums were lighter but a disc swap meant more rear bias for trailbraking (if you kept the disc/drum proportion valve). I'd go with an early base model Impreza, although the gen I Legacy is reported to be better balanced. Hard to find a good early Legacy as most are either too far gone, too option-laden to stay light or too far tucked away for safe keeping. At least an Impreza can be cosmetically upgraded to RS panels if that's your thing when not throwing roostertails of dirt around cones. Jay Storm

I like the way you're thinking and agree that it is the right way to go. Did I miss the sizes of the swaybars? We ran a couple seasons with 500/500 & 22/24mm bars (F/R) on 245s. It was a great setup. Then we went to 600/600 & 26/26mm bars and 265s. The jump in performance was again as big as when we came from little 225s years back. The same setup with 285-30-18 is just, well...thank god for race seats and harnesses! Too bad that Heartland park is still so slick. We didn't take that into account and the setup was way too stiff for the surface. Awesome on concrete...scary loose on sandy asphalt. My co-driver (and owner) pretty much veto'd the idea of taking the bars off to try get some traction...so I screwed us out of a national trophy by not taking the time to test for super slick courses. On my little FSP Brighton I tried a 22/__mm bar with the 600/450 springs and didn't like it. No bars seems to be what this car wants, so I'm gonna keep fiddling with springs and shock settings until I'm satisfied. I plan to try out some 215-40-16 as well as the 245-45-16s. I'd love to try a set of the 275-40-15s if I can find a donor (sponsor)..... I don't know what car I'll be in come time for Topeka...but I'll be there in something! See you there? Jay Storm