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Posts posted by All_talk
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Is the motor running? Check the nut that holds the arm to the motor shaft (should be under a little cover), I've seen these come loose on many Subes.
Gary
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The water temp sensor thats in the radiator is for the rad fan control and there is one in the thermostat housing for the dash gauge. The temp sender for the ECU is in the block, behind the intake manifold a bit to the passenger side.
Gary
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Hmm, you can try the vavle fix but if the trans is making ugly noises you should probably start looking for a replacement.
Gary
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Gear "apple coring" can be a problem but wont cause your up shift issue. Check this page for the fix on the classic governor valve sticking...
My '87 GL wagon gave me up shift troubles a few years back, preformed this repair and has been fine since.
Gary
P.S. How did this thread get this far without somebody thumping him sotfly with the search stick or bringing up this fix? :-\ :-p
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Damn styles, you know I love that car.
Gary
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I use to run the WeatherMaster Plus, the S/T2 is the replacement and the traction is as good or better.
Gary
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It only changes the ride hight, its only an adjustable sping seat, does not affect spring or dampening rate.
Gary
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Its both... slightly stiffer springs in the front but the big difference is the struts/shocks, they have about twice the dampening rate. Here's the chart...
Gary
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If you dont have A/C you can reach up under the bumper and trip it where the cable connects with your finger, its a long reach, get your head down there with a flash light and you'll see where. I did it like that in my wagon for a long time, got to where I could put my finger right on the lever without feeling around at all.
If you do have A/C the screwdriver should work, then for temporary you could run without the grill or hook a length of coathanger to it and let it hang out the front.
Gary
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Once the crack extends past the valve seat into the port it will find the water jacket very soon... looks like #1 is already there and it will do just what you describe, pressurize the cooling system. Another risk (though I havent heard its a big problem with Subies) is the crack opening enough to drop the valve seat, then it will most likely cost you a piston too.
Sorry Dude
Gary
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Only an inspection will tell you if replacing the flywheel is required (or at least advisable). If it hasn't been severely over heated and shows no cracking/surface checking or excessive metal to metal contact it should be fine to resurface. Any good automotive machine shop should be able to do it, around here the job goes for about $50-$60. I would never spend the money to do a clutch job without at least resurfacing the flywheel, not at the cost of the Subaru parts, never mind the labor (I do my own work).
Gary
FWIW, I'll throw a $25 replacement disk in one of my VWs without changing anything else, but that's $25 and I can do the job in about an hour.
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Actually all automtaics will force an upshift at redline to protect the engine
I have never been that brave on the automatic, but have no problem doing it with a manual.
nipper
Trounce the throttle and get power mode and the TCU will take it to 6000rpm, I'm sure the max shift point is the same if you over rev in manual mode. I dont have a 4EAT any more so I cant test it for sure.
BTW, I take my '91 SS 5MT to redline daily, I havent hit the limiter in 3ed yet but I'm normaly backin out before I hit 85mph. :-p (now that I know the car I dont hit the limiter at all)
Gary
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As far as I know all Ea82 cars use the same front fenders (except the XT).
Gary
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I've used the Cooper WeatherMaster S/T2 (unstudded) for years, great traction, good life and affordable. I just bought a set of 195/60R15 for the T-Leg at $47.00 a piece.
Gary
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Junk yard is gonna be your best deal.
Gary
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Yeah, the Kawasaki Invader is the most powerful 440 I’ve ever ridden, the engine pretty much stock and runs 9000rpm all day. I put some lower gears in it that move the peak power closer to trail speed, lost a little top end but pulls out of the corners like a monster. I spread the skis 4” to help it go fast through the twisties (my fav) and rolled the rear suspension out of the tunnel about 6” to get the track down in the deeper stuff.
My brother had an old Skidoo single cylinder machine, we called it the “Bumble Bee”, all boogie wheels and chugged along like a little tractor. We also had a Scorpion Bull Whip 440 that scared the crap outta me, you better be hanging on when you launched it.
Gary
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I don't live around there but what type of sled do you ride?I am always interested in snowmachines also.
Mostly old junk and we're pretty much Artic Cat people here, between my Dad and I we've got a collection going, and since he and Mom are off long haul truckin I get to ride whatever I want. :-p
Current list of runners:
'74 AC Panther 440 F/C
'81 Kawasaki Invader 440 L/C (heavy mods)
'86 AC El Tigre 6000 530 L/C
'87 AC Cougar 500 F/C
'94 Polaris Indy 500 EFI
'95 AC Cougar 550 L/C
'96 AC EXT Powder Special 580 L/C
Wating in the wings:
'69 AC Panther JLO/Rockwell 440
'75 AC Panther 295 Wankel Rotory
I'm planing on spending most of my time on the '96 Powder Special 580 this season, but that old Kawasaki and my '86 El T 530 have very fond places in my heart and I'm sure they'll get a spin or two. I love the looks I get passin people up on trail hotdoggin my old junk.
Gary
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Just putting out a feeler for others around here and maybe set up a Snowmobile meet. I live in Thorp (Ellensburg) and do a lot of riding out of the Taneum campground. I’d like to get more familiar with the Snoqualmie Pass area so maybe something up there? I don’t have a machine set up for any hardcore backcountry stuff, just looking for some spirited trail riding and such.
I’ve got a few extra snowmobiles and a 4 place trailer, if somebody without a machine wanted to come up.
Gary
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This reminds me of one of my first posts here... "The little red button makes it SUPER SUBIE!"
Link: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=7502&highlight=red+button
Gotta love the Subaru!
Gary
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Bump up from the dead... great info though.
I need to run the same tests on my T-Leg, I've got a WRX IC for it but I dont want to fit up all the plumbing untell I swap in the TD04... do it all at once.
Gary
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I’m a big Studebaker fan myself, what car does he have? If the stocker is only 75hp I’m gonna guess its an early straight 6, if so, the Subaru engine may not be the best fit in the engine bay. A newer/bigger inline engine might be a better choice.
As far as the power/weight issue, I’m sure the Studes got some pretty steep gears and the Ej22 has good bottom end torque, it would probably pull the weight fine.
I’m sure the Stude trans could be used, but along with an adapter you may need a modified/custom flywheel.
In general I like keeping the same make engine for a swap, he might look at the Studebaker 289 V8, it’s a good engine.
Gary
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I think the only issue with using the Ea82T axles is that they are to short because the Legacy has a wider wheel track. If you dont wanna split the diff to exchange the outputs I think you can just use the Ea82T DOJ on the end of the Legacy axle. You could probably just use the DOJ cups but I'd keep all the CV parts together.
Gary
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Check engine light? Have you checked for codes? These cars are ODB1, you dont need a scan tool to read the codes.
Gary
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Without emoticons I come off like a bigger wongleflute than I really am.
LMAO, thats classic
Gary
Run!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted
Best defense is keep it clean, rinse and wash regularly, daily if necessary. I normaly advocate hand washing only, but if you have a local car wash with the underwash that sprays straight up under that car that might not be a bad idea this time of year.
They dont use salt up here but they use a nasty "de-icer" that's pretty corrosive, I washed my car yesterday (by hand) in 38deg weather... thats love!
Gary